Mayan Ruins: Chichén Itzá – Yucatan, Mexico

The legendary ruins may not be the only Mayan “must see” archeological site, but it is the only one with El Castillo – the Temple of Kukulcán

Tom Lonero
08/25/2021

Chichén Itzá

One of the Seven Wonders of the World and a UNESCO World Heritage Site

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

An Important Mayan Archaeological Site
The legendary archaeological site is located in the State of Yucatan smack between the resort town of Cancún and the City of Mérida. Both Mérida and Valladolid are worth visiting as are the beaches of Cancún.
While Chichén Itzá is by far not the only fantastic archaeological site in Mexico it is the only one that has El Castillo, aka the “Temple of Kukulcán”. It carries the distinction of being voted one of the new Seven Wonders of the World. The entire site has also been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Archeologists who have been studying the area have discovered many different architectural styles, which leads them to believe that Chichén Itzá may have been a melting pot city for the Mayan empire. Different groups may have traveled there and exchanged ideas.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

A Little History
Although Chichén Itzá later on in history fell into complete abandonment as the jungle took back what was rightfully its to begin with, Chichén Itzá was never a lost city. It existed when the Spanish Conquistadors settled the region in 1519. At one point the Spanish even attempted to name Chichén Itzá a capital. Eventually the Maya pushed back against the Spanish but as we all know, the Spanish inevitably won out. As Spanish towns starting popping up throughout Yucatan and Mexico proper, the Maya started to abandon their old cities for the newer towns and cities that grew up around them. Some Mayan cities and buildings were even dismantled in areas as the stone was repurposed for newer construction of churches and other newer modern buildings. Those Mayan structures now lost forever.
Chichén Itzá means “At the mouth of the well Itza”. It’s well documented how the Maya held cenotes in high regard. It’s believed they held and still hold a spiritual significance. Artifacts and human remains found at various cenotes seem to confirm the notion that at least some cenotes are indeed sacred. It’s also been confirmed in recent years that El Castillo is built over one such sacred cenote. Yes... under that massive mound of stone is a sparkling pool of water.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

UNESCO and Archaeoastronomy
The reasons for Chichén Itzá‘s UNESCO designation are obvious. It’s simply magnificent. It receives over 2 million visitors a year. Ancestral Mayan are permitted to set up markets within the Archeological park. In some areas there are literally table after table of competing merchants. Sometimes selling the same thing. They will negotiate with the savvy.
The reasons why El Castillo was named a Seventh Wonder may not be immediately apparent. Its not only due to the overall magnificence of the pyramid but its also due to its secret archaeoastronomy. Every year at the spring and fall equinox a snake like shadow moves down the staircase of El Castille (Temple of Kukulcán) to meet with the giant foreboding snake heads at the bottom of the staircase. The snake represents the feathered serpent god that is completely embedded in mythology throughout Mesoamerica. The entire pyramid was build for the worship of the great-feathered serpent - Kukulcán.
The major pyramid is not the only structure on site that has elements of archaeoastronomy. El Caracol, also known as “the Observatory”, is another important location you should visit while at Chichén Itza. The observatory can pinpoint several astrological events including the location and alignment of Venus every 8 years.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

A Must See if Traveling to the Yucatan
If you are going to visit the Yucatan, then Chichén Itza would make a perfect addition to your visit. The 1000 Columns, Ball Court and Temple of the Warrior are awe-inspiring by themselves.
About 15 minutes from the site is the town of Vallidolid. It is often skipped over by the tourist buses from Cancun but it makes for a great stop afterwards to pick up lunch or dinner if you can find a way. The town square and the people are beautiful. The food is completely authentic and inexpensive. The exposure to the culture is obviously priceless.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

McConkie Ranch Petroglyphs

Utah and some of the other surrounding states are really a treasure trove of ancient rock wall art. Petroglyphs of “Bigfoot” and severed heads pop up along the way.

Tom Lonero
08/23/2021

McConkie Ranch Petroglyphs

The enduring mystery of the Fremont Culture

PHOTOS BY: Thomas Lonero

In August of 2021, I had the honor of visiting the famed petroglyphs at McConkie Ranch just outside of Vernal, Utah. With only one stop along the way, the trip from Salt Lake City took about 3 hours.

Arriving at the ranch I could see I wasn’t alone. A few cars were in the parking lot. There appeared to be at least one other hiking trail in the area and since I never encountered another soul on my hike up into the hills, I’ll assume the owners of those vehicles opted for that hike. My hike was to take me up into the hills along the butte or mesa that encompassed the valley. That is considered the main hike. The other hike, which I did not take, explores the “Three Kings” panel to the south. Online I had read it should take about two hours for my hike, but with my picture taking and filming, I expected it would take a bit longer.

Currently I have some anthropology classes under my belt for which I am sporting a 4.0, I’ll suggest that I would qualify for the term less than that of an amateur archaeologist, which would probably be “Non-Archaeologist”. That doesn’t mean I am without knowledge and inspecting these petroglyphs brought on some different questions based off some of the knowledge I have acquired over the years. Questions that I’m sure qualified archeologists have asked and in some cases may have answers to.

Rock art is notoriously hard to date. There are different methods. Some attempt to test patina, which erodes and comes back, making that method unreliable. Others attempt to use the uranium-thorium method, which sounds expensive and has its own set of problems that can affect reliable dating. Some check for sand deposits below where the sandstone rocks were etched. It is my understanding that none of the rock art at McConkie has been dated using otherwise expensive dating technology, which if used, still might not be a confirmation of exact dates. The techniques used there are based solely on artifacts found in the area that resemble the rock art found at McConkie. Artifacts like figurines, which have been found in the area that can be dated using the usual sedimentary methods of dating. It is assumed that the trapezoidal style figurines found are part of the same culture that drew trapezoidal humanoids on the cliff walls. Is it a stretch to assume one automatically means the other? Couldn't the people who made the figurines have simply copied what they seen carved into the hills around them?

A brief history

In 1925, a Mormon bishop and amateur archaeologist named Ephraim Pectol discovered what became known as the Pectol Shields. Three amazingly preserved buffalo hide shields were discovered by him in a dry cave called Calf Creek. Today it is known as Sulfur Creek in Capital Reef National Park. The National Park designation is one that Ephraim had fought for and won. At the time of the discovery, some things had been known about the people who had inhabited the area. That knowledge came largely from Navajo oral history, the abundance of rock art and various artifacts found throughout the area. They were not aptly referred to as “Fremont” until a book written in 1931 called “The Ancient Culture of the Fremont River in Utah” connected the title of “Fremont” to the culture that inhabited the area over a thousand years before. The Fremont River had been named after John Charles Fremont, an American who explored the region in the early 1800’s. In other words, the name Fremont has nothing to do with who the people were or what they were actually called.
The Navajo however do have a word for them and refer to them as the “Ancient Ones”. The actual word is “Anasazi’, which also referred to the ancestral Puebloans, who inhabited the Four Corners region and are famous for their cliff dwellings. Interestingly the name Anasazi also means “Ancient Enemy”. Today’s modern Hopi tribe lay claim to the Anasazi as their ancestors. However, oral and written history from the Aztecs suggest that their ancestral homeland may have originally been somewhere in Utah until some event forced them to move south into modern day Mexico (war maybe?). Interestingly, the Aztecs are believed to have taken over the Central Mexico Region at about 1300 CE, which fits precisely into the same time period the Freemont and the Ancient Puebloans disappeared from Utah and the Four Corners region. It seems possible they could have split off into splinter groups with one group becoming Hopi while another group became Aztec. One authority on the Aztec Calendar, a Dr. Cecilio Orosco of California State University, Fresno, as well as Alfonso Rivas-Salmon, a respected anthropologist from Universidad Autonoma de Guagalajara, have advocated for years the Aztec Culture originated in Utah. Still, some archeologists and anthropologists push back on this notion.

Differences in cultures
Some simple differences in cultures or technology seem to be apparent between the Fremont, the ancient Puebloans as well as the Aztecs and Hopi. Both the Puebloans and Aztecs wore sandals although in Aztec culture, only the hierarchy wore sandals, since they were considered a form of status. The Fremont wore moccasins.

Going back to the three buffalo shields found in the 1920’s that are now attributed to the Navajo. To my knowledge no older shields have been discovered in the Utah or Four Corners region that I can find. Shield making of the Aztecs is well known and while some animal hides were used, they were mostly formatted from wood or bamboo. That could have been a simple technological change since the Bison’s historic range was still somewhat north of present day Mexico City. A make do with what you have type of situation.

as mentioned earlier, the Anasazi name to the Navaho meant “Ancient Ones” or even “Ancient Enemy”, but interestly the original name of the Hopi is Hopituh Shi-nu-mu, which means “Peaceful People”. There seems to be evidence that the ancient Puebloans as well as the Fremont practiced some form of cannibalism. That’s also been proven in Aztec culture at least ritualistically. Maybe, the Hopi turned over a new leaf when they became Hopi? There seems to be some controversy regarding this. The Hopi lay claim to the ancient Puebloans but don’t want to lay claim to ancestral cannibalism, which is maybe understandable… or was there someone else in the area? Another tribe perhaps?

Still puzzles to solve

I personally find it interesting and odd that we attribute so many of the petroglyphs from the Fremonts that appear to be shields as actual shields and yet we haven’t found any shields older than the Navajo ones. We only assume they had them because thats how we interpret the petroglyphs. Leather dating back to 5000 BCE has been discovered around the world but we haven’t found a something the size of a shield? Sure conditions matter but Utah’s a fairly dry place and has been that way for a long time. Since rock art dating techniques are sketchy at best, is it possible that the petroglyphs are even older or from a previous culture? Native American oral history doesn’t go against this idea. That could explain why we have found so little of the culture including the shields they seemed to value, so much so that they etched petroglyph after petroglyph depicting one. Of course the value they placed on the shields could also suggest they kept them close and passed them down through generations. Maybe ‘losing one’ wasn’t a common occurrence? Maybe when the shield seen betters days they ritually burned them? Or maybe the shield petroglyphs are not depictions of shields at all. Maybe they are something entirely different. The Hopi have oral history legends about “flying shields” but nothing I seen would seem to prove the round humanoid figures are extraterrestrial… and I looked hard.

While the cultures of the Fremont and the ancient Puebloans absolutely crossed paths and were maybe even generally the same culture, not a lot is known about their connections. We do know today both cultures built round structures partly into the earth with probable wooden roofs. It’s assumed the structures were used to store corn and grains since both cultures practiced farming.

As far as cannibalism goes? It’s likely they both practiced some form of it. What was the purpose? Who knows. Was it purely ritualistic or based off survival? Maybe that was what was in store for whomever they conquered? It’s hard to deny that latter possibility when one sees the McConkie petroglyphs of severed head after severed head. Of course cutting off a head doesn’t mean you ate the person but the archeological discoveries of human bones that show they were likely boiled in pots certainly allude to that.

Enduring Mysteries and Legends

Various tribes in the southwest and plains have legends surrounding either cannibal dwarfs or cannibal giants.

The legendary child-sized dwarfs were called the Teihihan by the Arapaho and were supposedly destroyed in a great war by an allied group of Indian Nations. It’s interesting that so many tribes have these smaller humanoids in their oral history.

Were the petroglyphs marking territory or maybe giving warning about other humanoids in the area that were dangerous? It could be a signpost that simply means, “Go past this point and the cannibals will get you!” or “Come into our territory and we will remove your head!”. A form of propaganda wouldn’t be too hard to imagine.

Then there’s the enduring story that Southwestern tribes like the Paiute have told about a clan of giant red-haired cannibals called the Si-Te-Cah that lived in Southwest region of the United States. Tired of losing people to the cannibals, they went to war with them and eventually cornered the remaining giants in Lovelock Cave, which they attacked with arrows and by building a bonfire to smoke them out. Eventually, the story found its way to amateur archeologists in the early 1900’s who went to Lovelock and actually dug up bones and artifacts.

There’s no denying that archeological evidence was dug up there and that the skulls appeared to be larger than your average human from that time period. In fact archaeological evidence seems to indicate that Lovelock may have been in use as far back as 2,600 BCE. The skulls were eventually housed at the Humboldt Museum outside of Lovelock, NV up until an airing on the TV show “Ancient Aliens” actually showed the skulls. Producers and hosts of the show were permitted to compare the skull size to normal human skulls. That comparison showed the Lovelock skulls were much larger. That television showing brought immediate outrage from the Native American community and the display was removed in order to comply with NAGPRA (North American and Graves Repatriation Act). The remains were repatriated for burial. Up until then the skulls had long been housed in a cupboard and were only available for private viewing.

The Hike

The petroglyphs I found along the way at McConkie do seem to indicate shields, severed heads and bigger men, one of which has huge feet. Yes, they call that petroglyph “Bigfoot”. The land is beautiful and more petroglyphs can be found off-trail but the off-trail is more difficult and rugged. If you get hurt, it’s on you. My two-hour hike turned into almost four. When I got back to the parking lot, all the cars were gone.

Utah and some of the other surrounding states are really a treasure trove of ancient rock wall art. I’m sure not all of it has been discovered and hopefully someday more money will be thrown at dating the rock art that has been discovered properly. To me it’s obvious that the rock art at McConkie comes from different time periods, possibly over hundreds if not a thousand years or so. Unfortunately some are also fakes but there is enough there to realize the significance of the enduring mysteries that surround them. Until more archaeological proof is discovered, guys like me will simply look at them with the eyes of an adolescent and wonder if somehow we are not missing a more fantastic story about mans ancient past. A history that, so far, has only been passed down through legends and oral histories of the Native Americans. A history we still need to discover.

Iguazú/Iguaçu National Park

A Seventh Wonder of the Natural World and a UNESCO World Heritage site, the power and beauty of Iguazú (Spanish) Iguaçu (Portugese) is unmatched

Tom Lonero
08/29/2021

Iguazu/Iguaçu National Park

A 7th Wonder of Nature and a UNESCO World Heritage Site

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

What hides in the jungle can be heard from miles away.
The legendary Álvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca became the first European to see the famed waterfalls in 1592 after he could hear the roar from several kilometers away. He had been exploring the area for some time but the falls had to be one of his greatest discoveries of his lifetime. That's would be saying something since he had been a renowned explorer of the New World for decades prior.

The falls became a UNESCO World heritage site in 1984 and was voted one of the Seven natural Wonders in 2011.

Iguazú!
Ultimately, why most people visit Iguazú (Spanish) Iguaçu (Portuguese), is for the falls. Depending on the list you look at either Iguazú or Victoria falls in Africa are part of the 7 Natural Wonders of the World. It’s also a UNESCO World Heritage site… all for good reason. There’s nowhere else in the world like it. When compared against other mega falls like Niagara and Victoria, they are the largest amongst them in width hold the record in annual flow rate. They are simply breathtaking. Niagara can’t come close in their majesty and I have yet to visit Victoria at the time of this writing.
On the Argentinean side, the National Park is more laid back with a feeling of more freedom to do your own thing. You have options to walk the trails to the falls or take tours. I usually don’t opt for tours but in this case it was a lifetime opportunity.
I had purchased our tickets online to take a boat tour to the cataracts as well as the park pass we’d need to enter the park. We had no idea what to expect. I didn’t know if the trip would be a fairly standard boat trip where maybe you get a little wet and simply get to see some great sites or if the trip would be more adventurous than that. The bottom line… do this if you can. Nothing could have prepared us for how fantastic the experience was. The falls along the canyon feel prehistoric. You can feel the power they wield as the specially designed boat takes you up river and through the rapids to ultimately visit Devils Throat. It’s her where you feel how alive the falls are and how insignificant you are. The world becomes bigger at this moment when you realize how fantastic it really is outside of those mundane days spent inside an office performing some task that can never be as big or powerful as that moment right then, right now.
Enjoy it, take it all in. Hope the next person gets out of the experience as much as you will.

From Argentina

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

From Brazil

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Extremism in America

When the plot to kidnap the sitting Governor of Michigan by a group called the Wolverine Watchmen was uncovered, some of us probably asked ourselves, “Is this really happening?” I know I did

Tom Lonero
11/09/2020

EXTREMISM IN AMERICA

Why whats going on today is unlike anything in our lifetime

PHOTOS BY: Thomas Lonero

When the plot to kidnap the sitting Governor of Michigan by a group called the Wolverine Watchmen was uncovered, some of us probably asked ourselves, “Is this really happening?” I know I did. The group was deemed dangerous enough for the FBI to infiltrate. Although it’s believed the group had only formed this year, it’s widely known that many of the members had been visible participants in the militia movement in Michigan for years, if not decades. Some members have also been tied to the Boogaloo movement, AKA the Boogaloo Bois.
They are a group that doesn’t claim any organizational structure but they sure seem to have all the makings of an organization. So far they’ve been involved with:
·      Plotting to kidnap or kill a sitting Governor.
·      Directly inciting Minneapolis riots after the death of George Floyd. A member shot up the police precinct that incited mobs to later loot and burn it. He was arrested in Texas.
·      Numerous members have been arrested of Federal gun charges.
·      One Michigan man died in a shootout when they attempted to arrest him. It’s alleged he also had white separatist ties.
·      A police officer was killed in Oakland CA by a member who was also an active duty Air Force Staff Sergeant. Contact between the Sergeant and members nationwide were said to include plans to attack other law enforcement officers and government facilities.
·      Three Boogaloo members were arrested in Las Vegas on domestic terrorism charges after looking to take advantage of Black Lives Matter (BLM) protests. They made bombs they intended to detonate at protests. All three were either current reservists or recently became ex-military.
·      Armed members have stormed the State Capitals in Michigan and North Carolina as well as the Federal Courthouse in Portland Oregon demanding States open back up. Other States like Kentucky, Pennsylvania and New York have experienced similar armed events at government buildings.
·      A Maryland man was shot and killed by police during a no knock warrant for illegal firearm possession, His family insists he was not an extremist but members of the Boogaloo movement have claimed him as their own. On-line social media posts threaten a day a reckoning for his killing. His own social media posts indicate a connection.
·      At least two members of the movement attempted to join Hamas. Their plan was to raise funds to support the movement. They are now charged with attempting to provide material support to a designated foreign terror organization. They also were involved with the riots in Minneapolis. It’s alleged they belong to a sub-group of the Boogaloo movement called the “Boojahideen”. The term “White Jihad” has been used in social platforms to push their extremist rhetoric.
So who are the Boogaloo Bois? According to them, they are individuals who seek to bring about a second American Civil War they call the “Boogaloo”. Their enemy is the Federal government and left wing political opponents, which is why their reported involvement and support of a left wing organization like the BLM movement, is suspect.
The unorganized, seemingly better organized than we are made to think group, claim they are not built on racist ideology. Yet numerous members use racist and bigoted language along multiple social media platforms that implies there is a hidden agenda. Experts on militias and domestic terrorism point out the ‘Boogaloo’ started as a racist ⁽¹⁾ meme. Yes, some members are minorities. The only requirement to join appears to be a commitment to help facilitate the end of the Federal Government no matter what color one may be. How can the two facts coincide?
Those who call themselves Boogaloo come from groups like the Three Percenters, Oath Keepers, Proud Boys, the Michigan Militia or similar groups. They can be neo-Nazis, black militants and members of the KKK, as long as they leave that ideology at the door and remember the main requirement is the defeat of the Federal Government and any leftist influence. For that reason they may be more of an ideology. They seem to be building an alliance of sorts through online resources. Ultimately, organization of the Boogaloo Bois may prove inevitable. Some members have already been called leaders.
According to the Southern Poverty Law Center, the Oath Keepers are believed to have a ⁽²⁾ membership around 25-35 thousand. If certain players were able to coordinate efforts between multiple groups then all of a sudden you could be looking at between 100-200 thousand members of fringe groups working together on some level. The Oath Keepers claim the most active duty Police, Military and First Responders. Their ability to work from the inside could make them a threat. That doesn’t mean all members of other groups actively participate or engage with the Boogaloo movement, but most members of other groups consider themselves anti-government so collaboration and cooperation is happening on some level. For comparison, National Guard Troops number around 450,000. Police number between 600-700 thousand. What side are the active duty police or military that pledged to a particular group? The numbers mean that within the US we have a private army splintered into different factions that are 25% the size of law enforcement and military. At this time not all groups get along. Some groups have accused the Oath Keepers of ⁽³⁾not being racist enough.
With significant Boogaloos espousing racist ideology how can they claim they support BLM? The simple answer is they don’t. They support anti-police. There’s a difference. Their intent is to cause mayhem. It’s not to bring about better sociological reforms for the black community. Consider the story of the Trojan horse. Images of fires burning and precincts destroyed take away sympathy from the white community. There’s a video online of the first major building attacked in Minneapolis during the protests. It was an Advance Autoparts store that was looted and burned to the ground, but first a white man with a gas mask, now referred to as “umbrella man”, is seen busting out all the windows. He avoided real participation in the BLM protest except for this solo event. Protesters actually confronted the man to ask him to stop his actions, but instead he became aggressive toward them. Breaking the windows absolutely worked in inciting an already angry mob.
It’s a simple but effective playbook. Incite; use the protest platform. Pass blame while taking no blame. What’s unclear is why BLM would ever consider an alliance. It should be clear that while both movements are anti-government that the objectives are completely different. Since the Bois are at best a loosely organized movement, it’s possibly only low level members get involved thinking they are there as actual support. It’s easier to pitch an idea if you believe it. There’s plenty of online racist rhetoric leading up to any protest that indicates there’s another piece to their involvement though. The enemy of my enemy is my friend. It’s interesting that when Boogaloos have been permitted to participate where there’s also been rioting, there have been no recorded confrontation between the provocateurs and the Boogaloos who claim they are there to protect the event. Confrontations recorded have only been with protesters or protest organizers. It seems suspicious.
In a way, the BLM Movement has been a gift to White Nationalists. Not only does it appear the media, protesters and the public are being manipulated. It’s become a real recruitment opportunity. If you pretend on one hand to help the BLM movement it becomes easier to recruit police and military with the other hand or with a different group.
The psychology behind mob mentality and the manipulation of large crowds is well studied going back over a hundred years by such notables as Gustav Le Bon, Sigmund Freud and more recently Stephen Reicher. It doesn’t take much thought or planning to incite a mob that feels they have legitimate grievances. Organizers can lose control very quickly if they do not keep protesters moving and engaged with productive dialog. It’s no accident that many of the bad actors wait till after the organizers end their participation before they then move the crowds off into a different direction. There’s a scene in the movie Animal House where the late actor Doug Kenny (who’s playing the character Stork) steals the baton at the parade from the bandleader to divert the band into a alley that dead ends. It’s a scene that pokes fun at how easy it is to control a crowd. Controlling a really angry crowd is even easier. A small group with a different agenda can easily pit main protagonists against their main rival. It just takes a nudge like breaking windows at an Advance Autoparts. The Bois and other groups may be playing both sides against each other. Although some groups have minority members, they can never be equals in any White Nationalist movement if their main objective of bringing down the government is realized. With vast numbers of the Bois having ties to Neo-Nazi groups and Militias that only accept White Nationalists, rest assured the true nature of the movement isn’t to help the BLM movement. Bringing down the government may be their first priority but going back to a white separatist country is the ultimate objective for many militia members.
Throughout history, the other side has infiltrated protests ever since there were protests. Kings and Queens mastered crowd manipulation long ago by placing agents in among the crowds to focus the attention of the crowd elsewhere. ⁽⁴⁾ Gustave Le Bon, considered a foremost expert in crowd and herd behavior, believed that a collective mind would always emerge due to a crowd’s organization. If you can change the mood of a crowd with simple actions like angry words and damaging of property then the crowd becomes subject to manipulation from those trying to facilitate an often different agenda.
Violent mobs turn the support of sympathizers away from protesters and their agendas. When businesses get burned down and looted, then it’s easier to justify bringing in all the kings men like the police or even the National Guard. While many still sympathize over the original reason the protest started in the first place, it’s easier now to turn a blind eye. Who will the average person sympathize with? The storeowner who lost everything or the mob who burned down the business? A single person can affect and instigate a crowd. In turn that affects the police, news media and those at home watching it on CNN. It’s a militia recruiter’s dream.

Black Lives Matter Protests, June 1st, 2020

The Rise of the Militia’s
In order to understand where we are today we have to go back a few decades to see where most of this began.
Modern day militias and movements like “Boogaloo” started to become a legitimate threat soon after two big events; one being an 11-day siege at Ruby Ridge in Idaho in late 1992 and the other being a 51-day siege on the Branch Davidian complex in Waco, Texas in early 1993.
At Ruby Ridge, US Marshalls had shown up at the residence of Randy Weaver and his family to serve a bench warrant against him for not showing up for a hearing on firearms charges. Weaver said he had been told three different dates and had become afraid there was a conspiracy against him. He refused to surrender to authorities. During the authorities reconnaissance of the property and prior to attempting to serve the warrant, Weaver’s 14-year-old son along with a Deputy, were killed in a shootout. Weaver’s wife was later killed by sniper fire. Eventually the standoff was resolved and the remaining family members surrendered. In court the Federal Government attempted to press first-degree murder charges on Weaver and one of his associates who had been in the original shootout with Weavers deceased son. The courts disagreed and acquitted everyone on all charges except Weavers original charge of missing his court date. He did 18-months in jail and paid a 10,000 dollar fine.
Less than six months later the FBI laid siege on the Branch Davidian complex in Waco, Texas that resulted in the deaths of 86 Branch Davidians and 4 ATF agents. Originally the FBI was attempting to execute a warrant over sexual abuse and illegal firearms allegations. Part of the reason the storming of the compound was authorized by then Attorney General Janet Reno was a rumor, which was being spread throughout the FBI, that Militia Groups were on their way to Waco to either help the Davidians or go after the Davidians. That rumor never materialized. The FBI had also reported to Reno, who had only become Attorney General 10 days after the siege had started, that kids were being abused inside the compound even though that allegation was never fully proven. Reno later expressed regret for giving the order to storm the compound.
Over the next two years, Militia recruitment would skyrocket.

Oklahoma City Bombing Memorial

Just a tiny moment in time

On April 19th, 1995 at 9:01 I honestly couldn't tell you what I was doing or where I was. It’s possible I was sleeping. My view of the world at that time was fairly naive. MTV was still a thing. Alternative Rock ruled the airwaves. Friends, Seinfeld, Roseanne and the X-files were top shows. San Francisco had won its 5th Super Bowl. Michael Jordan came out of retirement after his baseball hiatus. Windows 95 was released, DVD's became a thing and E-bay had just started. Boris Yeltsin, John Major and Bill Clinton were world leaders. Technology was going through the roof it seemed but the world still appeared relatively normal. At this stage in my life my world was still small. I hadn't done much traveling and I was struggling with understanding who I was and where I was going. I had two very young daughters and had separated from my ex a few years earlier. She and I had moved on from each other and I had been relegated to a part time dad. I had a business I had been trying to make work, but it was failing. In truth, I wasn't in a good place in my life. What was about to happen would remind me that I had more to be grateful for than I realized. I don’t like that other peoples tragedies remind me I should be more grateful and yet there it is.

On April 19th, 1995 at 9:03 am, the world for the most part... changed for everyone. Even if we couldn't see the bigger picture at that time of the consequences of such an action, it still forever changed. The way the government did business and perceived threats changed. Laws changed. Our personal privacy changed. American eyes became a little wider open and the worldview of the United States was dramatically revised. Till this day, on April 19th at 9:02 am, church bells ring and people still stop what they are doing or pull over in their vehicles to give 168 seconds of silence.

Some of those people are survivors or maybe they actually lost loved ones in what is still the largest domestic terror event caused by an American citizen. At 9:02 am a massive bomb went off and decimated 1/3 of the Alfred P. Murray Federal Building in Oklahoma City. Around 90 minutes after the explosion Timothy J. McVeigh was pulled over for a traffic stop because his vehicle didn't have a license plate. In 2001 he was executed.

Oklahoma City Bombing Memorial

Recruitment Needs Manipulation and Planning
Timothy McVeigh earned a Bronze Star for his service along the Kuwaiti border during the first Iraq war. His commanders suggested he could be a candidate for Green Beret training but McVeigh never followed through. After his military service, McVeigh spent significant time at gun shows and hanging out with militia groups in Michigan. Inspiration for how to carry out his attack came from a book called the ⁽⁵⁾ Turner Diaries. It’s a fictional dystopian novel about a white supremacist revolution in a future that overthrows the Government. It echoes the dogma embraced by today’s Militias. In the book, a truck bomb similar to the one McVeigh built is used for similar purposes.
White Nationalist groups have held the book sacred and the writer of the book, William Pierce, became the leader of the National Alliance, which at one time had been called the most dangerous and well-organized neo-Nazi group in U.S. History. After his death in 2002, the group splintered and lost significant members but around 2017, largely due to current political rhetoric, recruiting picked up and they now claim thousands who have shown up at their events and rallies. They too are Boogaloos.
The Turner Diaries also inspired Dylann Roof who murdered nine innocent black parishioners in cold blood in South Carolina in 2015. The hope was to start a race war. ⁽⁶⁾ It's claimed the book has inspired more than 200 murders.
The group that McVeigh had held in high regard, the National Alliance, had been around since 1974. In 1995 on April 19th at 9:02 am, their dreams had become realized with the blood of McVeigh's 168 victims, 19 of which were children. McVeigh later claimed that the FBI raid on both Ruby Ridge and the Branch Davidian complex in Texas served as the moment he decided to plan out the attack. He claimed both incidences were overreaching by the government.
At 9:03 am, on that fateful morning, we became aware no one was safe and living was a daily reprieve. The naive notion that life was somehow fair or that racism and bigotry was mostly a thing of the past would come to light over the coming weeks as the motivations for McVeigh's heinous crime became apparent. After the attack, many who had followed in the same footprints McVeigh had walked in began to distance themselves from the militias and the rhetoric they had followed in cult like fashion. McVeigh, after all, looked exactly like many of them when they looked in the mirror. The wake up call was short lived. 9/11 came along and gave new reasons to hate and justify bigotry. It moved the needle away from the Oklahoma bombing as the largest terrorist attack on American soil but still holds the distinction of being the largest homegrown domestic terrorist attack. 9/11, to a degree, took away white America's concerns about their white neighbors and instead focused them on others who were culturally and religiously different. Governmental agencies will say they never stopped focusing on domestic terrorism, but the general publics attention span moved away from white America to anyone who resembled Middle Eastern descent... even if they just looked Middle Eastern. 9/11 helped bigotry and racism and militias grow, while McVeigh's act just over 6 years earlier, made many in the movement stop and question the roots that gave rise to a McVeigh.
The next big recruiting event, even bigger than 9/11, was the election of the first Black President of the United States, Barack Hussein Obama. The conspiracies leading up to the election and those that came after he was in office; like the conspiracy pushed by then citizen Trump, that Obama was not born in the United States fanned the flames of discontent. Recruitment rose dramatically throughout the White Nationalist community. Groups like the Oath Keepers who claim to be non-racist were born directly out of the election of Obama and the conspiracies surrounding him. That newly energized and growing White Nationalist movement is the same base that played a pivotal role in Trumps the narrow victory in 2016. It appears the right wing media acted as the inside man to push the conspiracies to an already angry ‘at home’ mob. Preparation for where we are now may have started as far back as Barack Obama’s first campaign as President.

9/11 World Trade Center Memorial

What makes today different?
In 2020, we find ourselves in a vastly different world than existed prior to April 19th, 1995, but the underlying disease of racism seems more prevalent now than back then. The groups today have only changed names not objectives.
My personal experience when I had visited the Oklahoma Memorial in 2010 was one of somber remembrance. The Gates of Time were striking in their poignant philosophy regarding the passage of time and the changes we experience in our lives. It reminds change can happen in the blink of an eye and that some change is far from good. The 168 empty chairs (19 of them child size) are heartbreaking. The names of over 600 survivors, inscribed in four granite tablets saved from the Alfred P. Murray Federal Building, is a reminder that even in the face of great evil and pain we somehow still manage to survive and move on.
In the Turner Diaries, anyone who was a "race traitor" would be marked for planned mass murder the neo-Nazi's believed would happen after they defeated the American Government. Yes, there are militia members and Boogaloo Bois who view anyone who speaks against them out as race traitors. They believe those who continue to speak out will one day be pulled out of their homes and dragged out into the street on a day of reckoning they refer to as the ‘Day of the Rope’ just as it happened in the Turner Diaries.
Since 2017 the ⁽⁷⁾ National Alliance neo-Nazi group are actively once again recruiting and growing. It’s been energized and organized behind new leadership. Many forget it was the same group McVeigh aspired to be a part of. Many forget McVeigh and Terry Nichols hung out with militias in Michigan just like the Wolverine Watchmen. Sure, after Oklahoma many groups learned to not push or advertise racist agendas and today instead concentrate on their anti-government message but are they really much different than Pierce’s National Alliance? Groups like the Oath Keepers, Proud Boys, Boogaloo Bois, Three Percenters or even the Wolverine Watchmen are just reincarnations of past groups preaching similar antigovernment rhetoric. They follow similar pathways born out of dogma William Pierce preached. Now, with the Boogaloo ideology, they may have something that helps binds them together. They now also believe they have a man in the Whitehouse that supports them. Those two things are what make what we are seeing today unlike anything we’ve ever seen in our lifetime.
Something’s coming. We all feel it. The tension on the strings can only get so tight before it snaps. COVID contributes to the tension by putting financial stress on poorer white populations. In 2009, the mortgage crisis placed a similar financial burden on many Americans. Both time periods emboldened militias who spewed conspiracies that resulted in increased recruitment.
In 1995, I didn’t see Oklahoma City happening. In 2001, I didn’t see 9/11 happening. In 2020, how can we not see something big is about to happen? The Election is sure to be a catalyst for whatever is coming. The question then becomes: What, if anything, can we do to stop it?

¹ https://www.splcenter.org/hatewatch/2020/06/05/boogaloo-started-racist-meme
² https://www.theatlantic.com/magazine/archive/2020/11/right-wing-militias-civil-war/616473/
³ https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/morning-mix/wp/2017/06/16/boomer-antifa-white-supremacists-rip-into-paramilitary-oath-keepers-for-not-being-racist-enough/
⁴ Gustave Le Bon, The Crowd (New Brunswick, NJ: Transaction Publications, 1995), 24 and 41.

⁵ https://icct.nl/app/uploads/2016/09/ICCT-Berger-The-Turner-Legacy-September2016-2.pdf

⁶ J.M. Berger, The Turner Legacy: The Storied Origins and Enduring Impact of White Nationalism’s Deadly Bible; Counter Terrorism Strategic Communications Project. September 2016

⁷ https://www.mic.com/articles/184158/the-most-powerful-neo-nazi-group-in-us-history-is-recruiting-people-in-illinois-iowa-border-towns

Buenos Aires – A Vibrant Chaos of Calm

There are normal or black market money exchange houses in Buenos Aires and of course an ATM can exchange your money as well, albeit for a

A VIBRANT CHAOS OF CALM

BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

There are normal or black market money exchange houses in Argentina and of course an ATM can exchange your money as well, albeit for a fairly high fee. The official rate you get at an official exchange isn’t as good as you will likely get at the “unofficial” cambio’s along Calle Florida which was right by our AirBnb in the San Nicolás neighborhood in the heart of Downtown Buenos Aires. Our AirBnB host who had graciously agreed to help us find an exchange, moved deftly through the crowds with us following closely. Having never been in Argentina it was dizzying to have just arrived and then move so quickly through the streets to an unknown destination with no time to take anything in. The first black market cambio's price (yes we’re vagabonds like that) didn’t sit well with our host. They wouldn’t exchange at the “blue” rate or the black market rate so we moved quickly onto the next cambio, which he felt had a more acceptable rate. He seemed to enjoy the negotiation and we took note how fortunate we were to have him as a host. A man that appeared to guard the door to the illegal exchange allowed us to enter after the price was agreed upon. Our host waited outside. Inside sat two men at a table with stacks of money in front of them and while I was busy briefly wondering how hard it would be for our families to get our bodies back to the States, they asked how much we wanted to exchange. So, keeping my voice steady, I gave them my hardest tough guy look and said "For now,I’d like to exchange three hundred U.S.". The men preferred hundred dollar bills over twenties to get the best rate for some reason. We obliged. After we exchanged I thanked the men and quickly exited. Our AirBnb host smiled and asked in perfect English if that was all we needed. After expressing some gratitude for him helping us we simply asked him to point us in the direction of the Obelisco de Buenos Aires so we could get our bearings. I had studied the area on maps enough before leaving the States and knew if we could make it to there, we’d be in good shape. I was confident we’d find some food along the way or close to there. I offered out host somewhat of a tip for helping us but he kindly refused so we shook hands and separated as Angie and I headed off into the concrete jungle of Buenos Aires officially now on our own.
Angie, having spent so much time in New York City, was excited to explore such a large unique South American city with a strong European vibe. The Obelisco was somewhat easy to find using Google maps but I still tried to not be so obvious with the phone and therefore draw unneeded attention by looking too touristy. Angela would occasionally frown at me for walking through the streets using the phone. At that point, I wasn’t sure who was most danger to me, Angela's laser looks or a hypothetical thief.
For whatever reason I get drawn to obelisks when we travel. I find it interesting in a Knights Templar/ Freemason kind of way that many cities around the world have erected numerous Egyptian styled obelisks. Some cities, like New York and London over a hundred years ago, even went so far as to actually import genuine ancient Obelisks from Egypt. Cleopatra’s Needle is a magnificent example of a piece of Egyptian antiquity that’s thousands of years old and yet sits humbly just behind the Metropolitan Museum of Fine Art in Central Park. You’d be surprised how many New Yorkers even don’t know it’s there. With all the conspiracy theories written about the obelisks, it's not unusual for me to seek them out. To me, they represent an ancient wisdom and if you've learned anything about me from any of my articles, you know I love and respect history and mystery.
Not far from the Plaza de la República where the Obelisco rose up above the busy late afternoon traffic, we wondered past several restaurant locations. Some even had some outdoor seating and music we found charming but the menus were not what we were looking for. After wondering around we settled on a place that caught our eye called Revire Brasas Bravas. Angela was kind enough to settle for a steakhouse although she’s mostly vegetarian. We were both famished at this point and just need to pick a place. She said there were enough things on the menu she could fill up on. The food was decent but the service was impeccable. Sitting down gave us a chance to breath and take it all in. We were finally able to simply enjoy our arrival to Buenos Aires. The rush from the Airport to get through the gates to find our driver who then rushed us to our AirBnb to meet our host who then rushed us to the cambio really didn’t give us time to feel like we had truly arrived. That feeling didn’t hit till we sat down to enjoy a calm, decent meal. That crazy initial introduction to the city was still perhaps the most honest. This was after all... Buenos Aires.

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

The Melting Pot

One may think exploring Buenos Aires would give you that New York City vibe, but in truth, it’s nothing like New York. That flippant expectation comes from a naïve American booking the trip. Namely me.

While financially, Argentina may struggle with higher than wanted unemployment numbers and a constantly fluctuating and unstable Argentinean Peso, it maintains a rich and inclusive heritage. At the turn of the 20^th century almost half of the population in Buenos Aires were recent European immigrants who were attracted to the New World and what was then a stable and promising economy. More recently many immigrants or their descendants have returned to Europe in search of a better economy but what they leave behind is a country still rich in its heritage of art, architecture and ideas. In more recent years the United States has attempted to move to more Nationalistic America (i.e. Americans) first philosophy. We seem to have forgotten our immigration past and what made our country so rich in ideas, industry and art in the first place. That American melting pot produced a juggernaut of a Nation and yet today it’s dropped out of fashion. Argentina, and more specifically Buenos Aires, seems to have never forgotten that heritage. Instead they embrace it. I’m sure they have their own problems with bigotry and racism. I’m not sure any country is immune to that. Argentineans still seem to keep in mind they are a Nation of immigrants, like it happened only yesterday and not over a hundred years ago when immigration was at its peak. The United States has a shorter attention span it seems these days. The attacks of 9/11 caused a lot of that discourse, especially toward Arab communities, while conversely South American countries like Paraguay have embraced new Arab immigrants.

Culturally Buenos Aires just feels richer and more artistic than most cities I’ve been to in the US. Maybe it was just the newness of our experience. New York feels more purposeful and financially driven with much of the artistic expression of the 60’s, 70’s, 80’s and the early 90’s leaving when Giuliani and more recent politicians concentrated on reforms that sanitized the city. Sure bits of each city are still reflected in each other and in all cities, but while New York was a melting pot of immigrants and new ideas many decades in the past, Buenos Aires feels like that melting pot never stopped.

As we explored parts of the San Nicolás and Recoleta barrios we were struck by the architecture and the importance placed on art and space. You seemed to come across a park every couple blocks with ornate statues or monuments. Throughways, that probably were once streets, are now blocked off with posts and instead only allow foot traffic and maybe scooters or bikes. Outdoor umbrella tables dot the landscape of most throughways with restaurant patrons enjoying meals, a few beers and often some form of live music, usually of the Spanish variety.

Beautiful buildings like the Palace of Justice of the Argentine Nation built between 1905-1910, which houses the Argentinean Supreme Court, is an impressive example of the neoclassical style architecture brought over from Italy and France during its immigration boom years.

Across from the Supreme Court you’ll find a beautiful Jewish Synagogue called the Templo Libertad. Construction began in 1897 and wasn’t deemed complete until 1932. It is again a perfect example of the cities immigration boom. It’s an example of German styled synagogues that were commonly found throughout Germany prior to WWII. Unfortunately, the Nazi party destroyed many examples in Germany during the war so this example in particular, is an even more incredibly important survivor of a by gone era.

Another of our amazing finds, besides the numerous cafes serving endless cups of coffee, was the Al Antaneo Grand Splendid in Recoleta. My friend Sebastiaan, who was living in Chile at the time (Now lives in Spain) had suggested we needed to hunt it down. Not only is it one of the world’s largest bookstores but it was also named the world’s most beautiful bookstore by National Geographic. It’s real easy to understand why it would hold that distinction. Previously, for over a hundred years, the building was a magnificent theater that housed over a thousand seats. When it was converted in to bookstore the essence of the historic theater was maintained. Frescoes, painted a hundred years or so ago by the Argentinean-Italian artist Nazareno Orlandi, draw your eyes to the already ornate domed ceiling. The woodwork and the multi levels insure you can discover something new around every corner and nook and cranny. Angela and I love bookstores but unfortunately, and not surprising, the English section was very small… as it should be. We still loved exploring the volume of corridors of books. On the old stage you can find an expected café where one can enjoy a coffee and a pastry. Angela fell prey, as she often does, to the medical section while I simply took in the reason part of the name of the bookstore is “Splendid” because - it is indeed exactly that.

On the walk back to our AirBnb from Recoleta we stopped for a small bite to eat and upon reaching the Obelisco we decided to once again take a range of pictures of the structure. At night the Obelisk takes on a different look with the lighting and the traffic moving around it. I think it made our exploration of the city and our overall experience that night seem even more surreal... or maybe we were just tired.

The next day we packed up and headed a little further out of Buenos Aires into what is a more country setting. A new driver picked us up to take us to the next part of our adventure where we planned to meet up with some new friends.

Along the way our driver showed us a few interesting sites like the Torre de los Inglesses, A.K.A. the Tower of the English, which sits in the Retiro neighborhood. Again, more melting pot architecture, this time with mid 19^th century English influence. It was gifted to the English population of Buenos Aires by the English government in 1910 in remembrance of the 1810 revolution (although it didn't finish construction and open until 1916). 1910 was the year Argentina started its journey toward independent nation status. The 1910 centennial celebration, which the Tower was built for, was said to be one hell of a party. When you get a feel for the city and its people its easy to understand why any party they throw would be a great one.

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Campana and Zárate

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

The six stages of eating blood sausage for the first time

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann

Love and Friendship

We had an opportunity to visit an area over an hour outside the city and spend a few days among some new friends. We were so happy we took this detour.

One of the things I dislike about traveling is any missed opportunity to connect with people. So far I’d say we’ve been able to connect with people at about 75% of the locations we’ve visited. By connect, this means we still, to this day stay in contact. These are people that made an impact in our lives.

The area we visited was northeast of Argentina between the towns of Campana and Zárate. Getting outside the city gave us a different perspective. Both cities, although an hour away from the “Autonomous City of Buenos Aires” still sits within the “Province of Buenos Aires”. How the province itself is divided up is a bit complicated and a quick Google search on your own will explain it better than I ever could so I’m not going to attempt it. What I will tell you is that both Campana and Zárate have a total population just under 200,000 so it’s not exactly a rural part of Argentina. Since they are both port towns on the mighty Parana River they play a important vital rule in Argentinean industry. That’s doesn’t mean when compared to the Downtown area of Argentina that it absolutely doesn’t feel like you’re deep out in the farmlands of nowhere. The contrast is striking. In truth, you only have to go a short way from Campana or Zárate to reach ranches and farmland if you want to see plenty of cows or horses.

Yet another of the surprising things Argentina probably does better in today’s world than America does in today’s world (keeping the past out of this conversation) are cowboys or gauchos. While the gaucho’s prime may have been during the 1800’s and into the mid 1900’s they are still, to this very day, very visible throughout Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay and Southern Brazil. Argentinean cattle and meat production is top notch. That’s also where the legendary gaucho’s still play a vital role. The pride Argentineans have in their meat production shows up on menus from the tip of Patagonia to the northern reaches of Iguazu Falls.

While visiting our friends they decided to take us to an authentic parrilla, which is basically what we’d call a Bar-B-Q here in the States. If you look for a parrilla in a Google search in Argentina, numerous options pop up to show just how popular they are culturally to that country. The Parrilla they took us to was called Los Leños Asador Criollo just outside of Zárate. The options seemed to be meat or you could have some kind of meat. After some non-discussion, we all decided to get both. I felt a little bad for Angela who had to dig out something vegetarian from the meaty menu but she managed and didn’t complain at all. It was easy for both of us to understand the cultural significance of the parrilla once we were there and could take it all in. We were very happy to spend time and get to know some of the people we now call friends.

The parrilla served most items family style. All the meats were brought out on a hot plate and everyone got to choose what they wanted and in what portions. It was basically keto heaven if I had been doing keto, which I wasn’t. My philosophy on this trip was to just eat and enjoy. What I was not aware of was that our friends were willing to take advantage of my philosophy by ordering blood sausage, which they secretly suspected I wouldn’t like. They were willing to prank me just to see the look on my face. Of course they told Angela of their intentions which she promptly did not mention to me – until I was writing about the experience in this blog! Well, I tried to brave my first blood sausage experience but my face couldn’t keep secret what my taste buds were telling me. I managed to swallow whatever it was I put in my mouth and had to figure out how to cleanse my pallet after. All of which Angela managed to of course catch on film.

One of the greatest parts of the parrilla experience and in truth, the entire trip, was when we crammed seven people into a small compact car and no one complained even when our friends Andie and Sol had to share the hatchback area.. Instead they played Spanish pop music and all our hosts sang beautifully for our entire trip to and from the parrilla. I’m not sure I’ll ever forget that. It may be that one thing more than any other that will stay etched into my mind. It makes me yearn to go back to Argentina to spend more time with the amazing people we met and still remember fondly.

Eventually we met up with a completely different group on another day thanks to another friend we met named Martín. He picked out a very different restaurant in Zarate called Las Farolas de la Rivera. The place had a very hip authentic Spanish vibe. Although still considered a “bar-b-q” the menu included many other side dish options and some excellent fish options that I opted for. Again, the privilege of the company is what made the dinner amazing but I will say, the food and the service was excelente!

Upon leaving the restaurant we found a few small venders selling goods in the adjacent courtyard. One of the things we became intrigued with, being the caffeine addicts we both were, was the yerba maté that appeared to be the national drink of South America if there was such a thing. At least it seemed that way in the circles we were traveling in. Martín was kind enough to help Angela pick out a traditional cup. which is sometimes made from a dried Calabash gourd. They also picked out the accompanying bombilla, which is basically a metal straw. The maté caffeine game in Argentina put our significant coffee game to shame. The maté is actually a bit higher in caffeine. You'll even see people carrying a thermos around with them so they can guarantee they always have plenty of maté. Latin Americans in general, all the way from Mexico to Argentina and Chile, really like their maté.

Our trip into the heartland of Argentina was an honor and privilege. Getting to know and spend time with authentic new friends gave us a greater sense of family one may not normally get with the locals when traveling. It showed the importance the people of Argentina place on that ideal. Sure, we were maybe missing out a little on some of your 'normal' touristy attractions but what we gained was far more valuable - love and friendships. These are friends that if they ever made it to our neck of the woods, we’d try and drop everything to make sure they are as comfortable in our country as they made us feel in theirs.

Recoleta and Retiro

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

A mad dash

It was finally time to head back to the Autonomous City of Buenos Aires. The plan was to spend more time in Recoleta before we departed for a time, but we’d be back. Our friend Juan, who I still chat with almost daily, promised to be our chauffeur. During the drive Juan played plenty of AC/DC. He doesn’t speak much English but he can sing the hell out of it if it’s AC/DC!

We had a short wish list for the day. Angie wanted to get a little shopping done and we were craving empanadas. Food came first.

Juan took us to a great little place that was super inexpensive with perfect empanadas called El Sanjuanino. The waiters were great and we were able to enjoy some quality time with our friend. The place wasn’t very big but it was packed. We were lucky to get the last table. You could tell that locals and tourists alike flocked to this place. You could detect a myriad of languages at the surrounding tables. Juan mentioned he often took his family there. We recommend this place if you’re traveling, need an empanada and want to watch your money. Something about the atmosphere makes one feel more connected to the local culture.
After lunch, Juan took us to the true heart of Recoleta… Plaza Francia. Smaller plazas like Plaza San Martin de Tours spread out adjacent from the dominating Plaza Francia. Around that whole area you’ll find amazing trees like Australian Moreton Bay Fig trees and giant rubber trees. Some of the trees are hundreds of years old and the city takes great care to maintain and preserve them. The area also boasts a cultural center, restaurants, stores and a peaceful atmosphere.

On the weekends the Plaza hosts a large flea market with tons of vendors selling numerous wares like jewelry, carvings, paintings and leather works. Music surrounds you. Juan and I spend some time following Angela as she hunted; I mean "shopped" the market looking for some souvenirs or other items that might have caught her eye. The plaza was beautiful and the market was vast but we didn’t have a lot of time to explore. We’d have some time at a later point to revisit the Feria de Recoleta.

Before we came to our final destination, Juan gave a quick stop to show us the Palace de Glace, which has been a National Monument since 2004 and an important part of Argentina’s cultural heritage. Over the last hundred years it’s been a lot of things from an ice skating rink to a dance hall. Today it’s run by the National Office of Fine Arts and holds numerous exhibitions. When we were there it was undergoing renovations.

Our mad dash for the day ended once we pulled into the ferry terminal to board the Buquebus. Juan helped us with minimal luggage and we shook hands and hugged before we set off to our next destination but not before we made arrangements to meet up with Juan at another point in time.

Making our way through the terminal and boarding our Ferry was fairly painless. We did have to stand in line for a short while to get our boarding pass but once the boarding started we simply herded like cattle onto the ferry and were set. Argentineans are very adept at herding cattle.

The ferry was incredibly large and travels at over 50 knots. It’s among the fastest in the world. We had splurged and purchased 1^st class seating for this leg of the journey, which was a cool and unique experience. The few extra perks made a difference and gave us time to relax and take a breather. The extra cost was nominal. I think I paid maybe 40 or 50 bucks more a ticket. There were excellent food options and they served perfect coffee. For us this was a luxury on a trip where we typically watched what we spent. Once the ferry departs you find yourself floating across the massive Río de la Plata, which is the worlds largest river estuary. Upon first glance you might think you’re on the Atlantic Ocean except the water under you is mostly freshwater with a saltwater mix. Across the massive river is the country of Uruguay, our next stop. We would arrive in Montevideo in about two and half hours.

Thomas Lonero, Author
Date of Trip - November 2019

Easter Island: A Legendary Location

Far out in the Pacific lies one the worlds greatest mysteries; Isla de Pascua, AKA Easter Island, home of the Rapa Nui & the legendary Moai.

Isla de Pascua - Easter Island - Rapa Nui

A LEGENDARY LOCATION

November 2019

Tom L.
Chile: Easter Island, Rapa Nui, Isla de Pascua

An opportunity to visit a legendary location

I never thought I’d ever get to see one of the most remote locations on the planet - Easter Island. It was so named because Dutch Explorer Jacob Roggeveen discovered it on Easter Sunday, April 5th, 1722. While I can go into the remarkable history of Easter Island, I’d rather you did some research yourself online so instead, for now, I’m going to mostly concentrate on our trip and what it took to make this happen.

I’ll start by stating once again it really never occurred to me that I’d be visiting this particular World Heritage site. Going there has given me a new outlook on how I can best travel. I had originally planned to go to South America, but in truth I had planned to go to Peru, Bolivia and Northern Chile. My main goal was to see Cusco, Machu Picchu and Tiwanaku, but after looking at how to best spend some airline points as well as being concerned about altitude sickness possibly ruining a trip, I decided to revamp the plans by looking at visiting further in South America like Santiago, Chile and Buenos Aires, Argentina. Once I spent time researching a completely different trip than I originally thought I’d be going on I realized that I’d be completely missing out on many megalithic sites that I yearned to see. I started researching archeological sites in Chile and Argentina. The main one that kept popping up in searches that was of immediate interest was Easter Island. There are plenty of amazing archeological sites in the deserts of Northern Chile and some other interesting archeological sights in the other countries we intended on visiting, but the only one that rivaled and maybe even surpassed Machu Picchu in my mind... was Easter Island.
edso named

Vaihu - Ahu Hanga Te’e

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

A lesson in patience

Now if I’m to be honest, I never even knew Easter Island was part of Chile. It never occurred to me. Besides, even from Chile it was still a 5 hour flight out into the middle of the Pacific Ocean, so could we even afford the trip? A quick Google search showed me that if we were going to go about 4 weeks out, which we weren’t because our trip was still about 6 months out, we absolutely could have afforded it. Round trip air was floating around $300.00 RT from Santiago about 3-4 weeks out on the day I happened to perform the Google search. The catch was that it was floating around $1200 to $1600 Round trip 6 months out when our trip was scheduled, which unfortunately was definitely out of our price range. It also looked like LATAM Airlines was the only airline that did regular flights to Easter Island from Santiago. We were likely going to be out of luck. I told myself I’d loosely keep an eye on airfare just in case. I went about planning our stay in Chile on the mainland.
Besides

Rano Raraku Quarry

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Due diligence

As the months went by, I noticed an interesting trend when I would go to check on prices. The prices were always more expensive 3-9 months out and seemed to be cheaper 4-6 weeks out. I kept my fingers crossed that we’d be able to book a reasonable flight, as our trip got closer. About 5 weeks out the RT air from Santiago came down to about $330. Afraid the price would go back up, I pulled the trigger on the tickets. I’m not sure if the price went up or down a week later to under $300. I’m glad I bought the tickets when I did because when it came time to board the plane, it was packed. We had even been able to snag plus seating when we booked. That extra leg room is nice on 5-hour flights. If I had waited a little while longer there’s a real good chance the flight would have been booked and we wouldn’t have been able to book another flight in the narrow window we would be in Chile. The rest of our South American trip was already booked, flights and all. It wasn’t an option to change everything around at this point. If we were going to add Easter Island to our already packed itinerary then I needed to do so at that moment. I can’t stress enough how happy we are that we decided to add Isla de Pascua to our trip.. It wound up being a spectacular part of our journey and a truly once in a lifetime experience. It was an honor to visit such a unique island, the Moai and the people that call it home.

Ahu Tongariki

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

A few things to keep in mind

If you’re planning to visit Easter Island as a US tourist know that you can only stay up to 30 days and not the 90 days you can stay in Chile because the island is considered a special territory. The island is small. You really only need a few days to see the entire island. Any more than that would just be for the R & R. You’ll need to show your return ticket if requested at the airport, which proves you’re not staying over the legal amount of time. You’ll obviously need your passport, which no longer gets a special stamp at the Rapa Nui airport when you land. If you want the super cool passport stamp (Moai heads) you’ll need to get it at a special government location in the local town of Hanga Roa. The locals can direct you where you need to go. You'll also need, and this is important, a reservation letter provided by the establishment you booked your stay at to give to customs to prove you have a place to stay when you get to the island. Wherever your stay is needs to be approved by Sernatur, the national tourism service of Chile. You’ll also need to fill out a Rapa Nui entry form (IRN) online. After filling out the IRN you’ll get a confirmation email that you’ll need to print so you can also present that to the PDI at the airport. Make sure you have your ducks in a row by the time you get to the airport. The information on what you need is available and provided online.

Anakena Beach - Ahu Nau Nau and Ahu Ature

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Bottom Line. If it's someplace you'd like to see, make it happen.

Times is ticking. Even the Moai with their weathering know that. Someday in somebodies lifetime, they won't exist as they do today. The ability we had to move freely around the island may not exist even in the near future. When we took this trip we had complete access. Of course no one can touch the Moai because of preservation issues, but we took our own tour at our own pace. That was priceless. We were able to take enough time to bond with the island and its past. That's all we really wanted. The town on the island is Hanga Roa. By itself, it is a completely unique experience and was worth discussing in a separate blog post you can also find on this site.

imes ticking

Brazil: Foz do Iguaçu

Across the Iguazú – Iguaçu River from Argentina and Paraguay, with over a quarter million people, sits the border city of Foz do Iguaçu.

Tom Lonero
08/23/2021

Brazil

Foz do Iguaçu

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Eats and Culture
Across the Iguazú/ Iguaçu River from Argentina and the Paraná River from Paraguay, sits the border city of Foz do Iguaçu. With over a quarter million people calling the city home it still has a small town feel. There are no huge skyscrapers ruining the views here. Sure, there are some taller hotels but they don’t overwhelm the skyline. Overall, between the three countries of Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina, the entire region is home to close to 600,000 people with Ciuda del Este in Paraguay being the largest city among the three border cities and Puerto Iguazú being the smallest. That puts Foz do Iguaçu right in the middle and it kind of feels that way. It feels a little like lost potential; like the middle child who wasn’t quite as loved as their other siblings.
With those many people in the region that does mean you can find almost anything you want in the area including good eats, retail shopping and nearly unparalleled natural beauty when you tie it all into the famous falls in the region that millions visit every year.
So why does it feel like lost potential? With stunning vistas and river views, there wasn’t much to do along the river. The main restaurants were mainly along Av. Jorge Schimmelpfeng and, to me, it just didn’t have the feel of a main tourist thoroughfare that you'd want to walk up and down on. So we went off the grid a bit to find the real culture. We looked for some of the real neighborhoods that were up and coming or others that the locals frequent.

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Barrios Jardim Princesa Daiana and Jardim California
On a whim, one of drives I had decided on, took us through Barrio Jardim Princesa Daiana. Yes, that same Princess Diana who had apparently visited the Cataracts of Iguaçu Falls in April of 1991. Her signature can still be found in the guest book of the Hotel das Cataratas, in which she stayed. It's interesting how people all over the world were so taken with her... and still are. In this city, that she had only visited for a short time, they renamed an entire barrio in her honor.

Driving though the barrios, I was struck by the authenticity. Nowhere was that more apparent than watching a few kids kick a ball around in an open field. It reminded me when I was younger and could play outside for an entire day with little more than an imagination, a bicycle or a ball.

Barrio Jardim California is right next to princess Diana and is home to Chen Tien Buddhist Temple, one of the largest in South America. We arrived late and the site had unfortunately just closed. It’s normally open until 5 pm and admission is free. We did get a cool pic outside the gates though.

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Iguaçu National Park
In April of 1939, while WWII was just about to get started, Brazil created Iguaçu National Park. Today it’s comprised at over 450 thousand acres.
Although most of the falls are actually on the Argentinean side it gives Brazil the distinction of having some really amazing views of the falls from their side of the river.
Because of the crowds of people that flock to the Falls every year, Brazil controls the flow of people to the Falls through busses or private tours. When you enter the park you’ll pay the park entrance fee and then you’ll need to stand in line and wait till your bus to arrive if you didn’t arrange for a private tour like us.
The experience of visiting the Falls is one that will stay with you for a lifetime. If you wish to know more about the Falls, including the history of how Europeans first discovered them, then you can visit my link to separate stories I wrote on them here at Las Tres Fronteras - Puerto Iguazú, Argentina and here Iguazú/Iguaçu National Park.
You can also visit my YouTube video on the Falls trip here: Iguazu - Iguacu (Iguazù - Iguaçu) Falls - Devil's Throat

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Uruguay, Montevideo – An Unexpected Gem

Uruguay might not be on your radar as a travel destination… but it should be.

Montevideo, Uruguay

An Unexpected Gem

November 2019
Tom L.

Coming Soon!

An unexpected gem

A learning experience at the Plaza de la Diversidad Sexual

A great evening with "Dos Guitarras" at the El Pony Pisador!

Layla

Hotel California

De Música Ligera

Knocking on Heavens Door

Counting Stars

November 2019
Tom L.

Coming Soon!

The Street Market

November 2019
Tom L.

Coming Soon!

Centro District

November 2019
Tom L.

Coming Soon!

Sunsets & Great Food

November 2019
Tom L.

Coming Soon!

Worker Strikes & the Miami Connection

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Chile: Valparaíso

Once called the little San Francisco, you could say the history of the world has passed through this jewel of the pacific.

Valparaíso, Chile

The Once and Mighty Port

Once called the little San Francisco, you could say the history of the world has passed through this jewel of the pacific. Before the completion on the Panama Canal in 1914, Valparaíso grew exponentially. During the 19^th-century, German, Spanish, Italian and English immigrants passed through and often settled. Early world globalization efforts easily dominated throughout this region of South America in the 1800’s. The city was the main port connecting the Atlantic and the Pacific oceans before or after ships navigated through the straights of Magellan, which sits at the southern tip of Chile and Argentina. There have even been major battles fought just within reach of its harbor.
After the Panama Canal the port activity slowed dramatically and as the harbor traffic slowed, so did the growth of the city. Today, its resilience is a testament to the cities history and its people. While still an important seaport for Chile, especially with the largest city of Santiago being only 75 miles (120 Km) away, the more southern port of San Antonio has taken over the major role of not only the countries largest port but also the largest in all of South America. Now Valparaiso widely serves as one of Chiles hottest tourist destinations. Cruise ships pile up in the Harbor during the summer months. Artists, cafes, swank hotels and hostels and regular festivals dot the landscape. The last three days of the year hold a huge celebration culminating in a fireworks display to bring in the New Year. The popular upscale beach town of Viña Del Mar is only a few miles up the coast as well as other popular beaches.
We started out our journey from Santiago and drove about an hour west to get to Valparaíso. Santiago is 1,870 ft (570 m) above sea level. It’s basically a slow climb down hill to get there. It gets noticeably steeper the closer you get. Arriving in the main part of town the first thing you notice besides the age is the culture. It sweats culture and seawater. The landscape is phenomenal. The city sits like a natural amphitheater overlooking the southern Pacific Ocean. Colorful historic buildings, terraced up the hills, go deep into neighborhoods mostly built during those early globalization years. Valparaiso, much like San Francisco, tends to have regular fog but when we went the skies were blue and you could see clearly for miles.
Our first stop was the main harbor entrance and a place on the water called Restaurant Bote Salvavidas. The food was great albeit a little pricey. The view was amazing and the initial service was good but for some reason waiters switched up on us and we got lost in the shuffle at the end. We sat there for a long time after we were finished and had to hunt someone down to get the check (la cuenta). Maybe thats a cultural thing? Beyond that little mix up, the location was amazing. It's known as one of the best seafood places in town.
From there we shopped at a few small vendors at the dock but opted not to get anything. A few local friends had joined us and warned us we could get all that stuff much cheaper most anywhere else. Angela really wanted to get something with Chilean Lapis Lazuli. The often-bright blue stone is native to Chile and prices vary wildly for the stone. If you purchase any, try and buy from a reputable seller to insure quality and authenticity.
Across from the harbor is the Plaza Sotomayor with the magnificent Monumento a Los Heroes de Iquique. It’s a dedication to fallen heroes during the Battle of Iquique. The famous naval battle was part of the war of the Pacific in 1879 between Peru and Chile. The streets were bustling with activity and friendly street vendors were selling their wares in the plaza. Some vendors were even selling interesting antiques I wish I could have purchased but we generally travel lightly with only carry on luggage. Any purchases we make to take home have to be small in size.
Before heading up the hill Angie managed to catch some great shots of kids hanging out and skateboarding by the Appeals Court. We had to be mindful that during our stay in Chile large, and at times dangerous, protests were going on (as discussed in the Santiago blog). The largest protests were going on in the capital of Santiago but evidence that some of the protests carried onto Valparaiso were all around us in the form of graffiti and postings. Sotomayor Plaza was usually where the protestors congregated every night after the vendors packed up and went home. We still had some discovery in the hills to do before any of that broke out later. We really didn’t want to get caught up in that unknown so we started our trek upwards.

Cerro Alegre’s el Peral Staircase

The stairs of Valparaiso are not only built into the surrounding hillsides but are built into the bohemian artistry and style of the city. They are part of the outdoor museum of street art that shouldn’t be missed. Local artists are allowed and encouraged to express themselves on cement, brick and mortared canvases throughout the hillside communities. Nowhere is that more apparent than the hillside communities of Cerro Concepción and Cerro Alegre. Cerro literally means ‘hill’.
Moving on from Plaza Sotomayor we started up to Cerro Alegre by climbing the staircase that rises generally adjacent to the funicular or incline lift called Subida el Peral. Many people will choose a funicular incline lift to travel up into the hills. While assuredly it’s a special part of Valparaiso, we opted to not use the lift since we also have historic inclines back home in Pittsburgh. Plus we’d miss the art. I’m not 100% sure the name of that staircase we climbed but any staircase climb in the city is almost guaranteed to be a special cultural and artistic expression. It wasn’t a famous staircase in Valparaiso like the Piano in Concepción or the Apolo in another area of Alegre and I couldn’t find it on any list, but some of the murals we found were still spectacular. The mix of cultural and political influence in the artwork is thought provoking. The street art varies from colorful and intricate to some that are simply a statement in writing that still manages to punch you in the stomach. It’s a direct reflection on the people and what they want to say.
The climb up didn't take long. There are much longer excursions you could do and more famous ones. Once at the top we reached El Peral Street, which leads me to believe that the stairs are simply an extension of the street. The reward for climbing to the top is well worth it.
sits

Paseo Yugoslavo
Cerro Alegre is a beautiful historic barrio with cafes, hotels, restaurants, unique shops and street art around every corner. There are plenty of AirBnbs available in the area if we have had the need. In fact, I had booked one and had to cancel when plans changed. During the 1800’s English immigrants largely settled the neighborhood. You can easily see why so many people flock to these hills every year.
At the top of the stair we had just climbed and to the left begins the Yugoslavo promenade, which started out as a dirt road with modest wooden railings in the far distant past. Today it offers incredible views of Vaparaiso Bay along with cafes and street vendors. It’s there while viewing that you fully understand why Valparaíso has been honored with the label of being a UNESCO World Heritage Site… or maybe the honor is the other way around.
At the corner of the Yugoslvo promenade on the corner of Montealegre Street sits the Baburizza Palace, built in 1916 by Italian architects. It’s a incredible unique building that now houses the cities Municipal Museum of Fine Arts. For just under $5.00 US, you can gain admission.
We walked a bit around the neighborhood an up toward Concepción hill before eventually working our way back down the stairs they same way we came up. We were able to take in the street art one final time and maybe noticed a few things we may have missed on the way up.
At the bottom, Angie once again noticed the kids sitting outside the Appeals Court and took another picture (By the way, she really saved this journey since many of my pics came out bad for Valparaiso). The picture she took also happened to capture the statue of lady justice. This version of lady justice holds the scale at her side and doesn’t wear a blindfold, which is beyond odd, especially outside of a courthouse. Turns out, is in most odd things, there’s a story. An Englishman, who once had an affair with a judge’s wife, was forced to flee the city never to return. For revenge, he had the best sculptures in France created a statue that he requested with a specific set of features. He then donated it to the city. The city, thinking it was some fancy French Bronze statue proudly accepted it and placed it outside their Supreme Court. It took them 30 years to realize they had been had but instead of removing the statue, they revised the meaning. The Chilean Government claimed the statue means that outside of court, street justice prevails while inside the more conventional characteristics were followed.
You got to love when governments revise history to fit their agendas. No country is immune from that. It's always up to the people to remember the truth.
Valparaiso is a fantastic city with so much to offer. We are very indebted to our Chilean friends, although one was technically Uruguayan, for all the help they gave us in exploring a UNESCO site once called the “Jewel of the Pacific”.

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Mexico: Valladolid, Yucatan

Magnificent sunsets, colorful architecture and a historic square filled with culture make this quaint town worth a visit.

Mexico: Valladolid, Yucatan

A stop along the way

A stop along the way

Coming Soon!
sewer

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

The Historic Iglesia de San Servacio

Coming Soon!
sewer

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Cobá Mayan Ruins

(50 BCE -1550 CE)

Quintana Roo, Mexico

Grupo Coba

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Grupo Chumuc Mul

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Grupo Nohoch Mul

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Mexico: Mérida, Yucatan

Before the turn of the 20th century Mérida had become one of the wealthiest cities in the world boasting more millionaires per capita than any other.

Mexico: Mérida, Yucatan

Winter is Coming

Winter is coming

Booking a flight into Belize City, Belize with a long layover in Panama City, Panama seemed like a good idea on paper. The plan was to go out to eat in Panama City in the old swanky part of the city called Casco Viejo upon arrival. I booked a hotel next to the canal so we could wake up early, check out the canal and then catch our connecting flight to Belize. We knew it wouldn’t be enough time to really get a true feel for Panama but this was our best flight options on the points we could use on the days we could leave and return. We were looking at going in-between Angie’s shifts at work so we could be away on Valentines Day. After spending a little time in Belize City we would take a bus up to the Mexican border, rent a car in Chetumal, and explore the Yucatan Peninsula as we made our way up to Tulum. Well the trip I had meticulously planned out wasn’t meant to be…

A winter storm timed itself perfectly and hit the mid-west affecting our connecting flight going into and coming out of Chicago. We ended up rebooking our flight a few hours before we left which eliminated Chicago and Panama and instead put us in Belize a day earlier. So I re-worked the trip by canceling and re-booking hotels, buying ferry tickets to San Pedro Island and researching places we could explore. But again, even though we flew east into Washington DC and then onto Houston, the storm once again affected us because of dangerous winds. We got to Houston late and missed our connecting flight to Belize. Once again I went to work trying to rebook flights to Belize, Panama or even Cancun, but nothing was available until the next day. It was looking like we’d have no choice but to overnight in Houston, which felt defeating. We were willing to look at almost anything in order to not stay overnight in Houston and lose a day of our trip.

In my research I remembered seeing a city named Mérida, Mexico because I had been researching various archeological sites we were hoping to visit. At the time I had decided anything as far west as Mérida would be too far for us to check out by driving from Tulum but maybe I could revamp the trip once again. If we could get to Mérida, then instead of working my way to Tulum from Belize, we’d simply have to work our way there from Mérida. We were in luck. A short two-hour flight was leaving in a few hours from Houston. This would get us to Mexico but now instead of a quick visit to Panama and some time in Belize, our whole trip would take place in the Yucatan, which ironically was what I had originally wanted to do anyway. I had tried to book into Cancun and then fly back out from there as well, but it was going to cost too much in points on the dates we wanted to go. In the end, Houston to Mérida to Tulum and departing from Cancun wound up being a better trip. It gave us more time to experience Mexico instead of the bang-bang trip to Panama, Belize and then Mexico.
sewer

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

The struggle is real

We only had a few hours in Houston to prepare for our trip to Mérida. We had to find a car rental and a place to stay. I also needed to figure out good locations in Mérida that we’d want to be that matched up with were we would be staying but as luck would have it, the Internet on my phone was acting up. The data connection was struggling to recognize I had just popped up in a different part of the country. Nothing was working out and I was feeling the stress. I decided to call a friend in Kentucky who I had just met up with a week earlier in Pittsburgh. Coincidently, he had just mentioned he had spent some time for work in the Yucatan and specifically Mérida. It wound up being a good decision. He was able to direct me to an area of interest we could stay as well as a car rental company he used while there. Booking a car was a little complicated because of the language barrier and our need to pick it up in Mérida while still dropping it off in Cancun. The car rental place we had been directed to said all their cars were booked but that he had a “friend” who could rent us a car. Even though this sounded shady to me, we were really left with little choice. I decided to trust that the human condition wasn’t as bad as the media made it out to be and that things would somehow work out. We decided to take him up on his offer and see how the situation would unfold when we landed and if it didn’t feel right we could simply take a taxi to the place we were staying and then try the next day to rent a car from somewhere else. Upon landing and getting through customs we once again had to reset both of our phones network data connections while rushing through customs. Exiting out to the main exit, we found two smiling young men wearing shirts with the names of their car rental place holding a sign up with our names on it. Our flight, arriving 45 minutes late, put us beyond the time that their rental place closed… and yet they waited for us. Immediately you could feel that things were going to work out with the car situation.

One of the things we also did successfully in Houston was book a terrible AirBnb against better judgment. Arriving at the AirBnb we discovered huge black ants under the covers and furniture and a shower that was falling apart. The AirBnb cost was close to $40.00 US a night. Our AirBnb host, to his credit also waited for us almost two hours. After he showed us the place and left we couldn’t get out of the place fast enough. I called a place immediately named the Hotel Gran Real Yucatan, which had an available room. It was only $10.00 US more a night than the AirBnb. It was just several blocks away from the Cathedral Mérida, the exact location we wanted to be. The hotel, after all we had gone through on a terrible day of travel, felt right. The room had a great balcony and the breakfast, which cost extra, was very good. For value, location and cleanliness you cannot beat this beautiful French revival style hotel.

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

French and Spanish blended vibe…
plus tacos!

Arriving at the hotel late we were starving. Many restaurants had closed for the evening. The gentleman who checked us in recommended a place that was only a few blocks away so after quickly dropping off our luggage and cleaning up a little we headed out on foot very late at night. Never once did we feel unsafe. We wound up eating at a place called the La Parrilla Mexican-Grill (Centro). It’s a chain restaurant but was perfect for what we were looking for that night. The staff was friendly and the food was good. Ask for the shotgun and hat.

We stopped after we ate to take some pictures at the Rectory Jesus Third Order, which is an impressive Church in the same square as the restaurant. Mistakenly I had thought it was the famous Mérida Cathedral because it’s that impressive. Although not as old as Mérida Cathedral, it’s still pretty old dating back to the 1700’s.

Taking a brisk walk back to our Hotel we settled in for the night. Our intent was to wake up and visit a Mayan ruins site called Uxmal the next day. You can check out our separate blog in the UNESCO and Archaeological sections of this website to see more on that amazing experience.

The next day, after cleaning up at the hotel from our afternoon adventure of climbing the ruins and pyramids at Uxmal, we again ventured out for dinner. Walking the streets of Mérida is its own experience with quintessential French and Spanish architecture on showcase. Many of buildings date back hundreds of years. We again found ourselves only a few blocks away eating great food at a restaurant inside the Hotel Mansion Mérida. A fine example of 19^thcentury French architecture, the hotel had been meticulously restored to its former glory. A process that its website says took over 5 years.

In researching the French influence, I was surprised to learn that at and somewhat before the turn of the 20^thcentury, Mérida had become one of, if not the wealthiest city in the world. Henequen production,used in the shipping industry for sisal rope, created more millionaires in Mérida than any other city on the planet. Its citizens at that time traveled the world extensively and brought back with them French culture and architecture. Previous French influence had been blended into the Spanish culture through trade and times of war. During the 1800’s, France and Mexico fought in two Franco-Mexican wars largely for economic reasons. The result of all that history is the unique and beautiful city we found ourselves exploring.

Another block or so away from where we ate dinner we finally visited the Cathedral de Mérida. The only church built in Central America entirely in the 16^thCentury. It was constructed of stones from the Mayan temple of Yajam Cumu, which was essentially destroyed to create the church. Some of the stones still have Mayan hieroglyphics on them.

There’s much more to do in Mérida than we had time for. It would take weeks to fully explore the museums, upscale shopping venues and eateries. A half hour away there’s a coastal town called Progreso that boasts the world’s longest man made pier that that we wouldn’t have minded exploring. Just west of Mérida of an older civilization than the Mayans called the Toltecs. They left behind mysterious giant stone heads I wouldn’t mind seeing. All in all, we are grateful for the series of events that enabled us to ‘accidently’ discover such a timeless city that we someday hope to make it back to.sewer

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Uxmal Mayan Ruins

(500 AD -1200 AD, Estimated)

Puuc Region, Yucatan, Mexico

Magician's Pyramid

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

The Nunnery

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Ball Court, El Juego de Pelota

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Great Pyramid and the Temple of the Gaucamayas

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

House of Pidgeons - Dovecote

The Governor's Palace and Courtyard

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

House of Turtles, the Plaza, Quadrangle of the Birds, Water Management

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Buenos Aires – Part Two

If life is like a box of crayons then one can’t miss the old Italian barrio of La Boca or day-trips to Palermo Hollywood & Feria de Recoleta

Part TWO

BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

Buenos Aires

Coming Soon!!! Just a quick one nighter...

Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires

Coming Soon!!! Palermo Hollywood!!

Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires

Coming Soon!!! New Friends, Feria de Recoleta and more Palermo Hollywood

Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires

Coming Soon!!! Viva La Boca!!!

Buenos AiresViva La Boca!!

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Argentina, Puerto Iguazú – Las Tres Fronteras

Puerto Iguazú is the perfect jumping off point for access to one of Seven Wonders of the Natural World, Iguazú Falls, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Las Tres Fronteras

Puerto Iguazú, ARGENTINA

A rich history and a little about the first European to see the falls
In the northern most point of the Misiones district of Argentina, the northeastern point of the country, sits a town with a lot of character. Puerto Aguirre was founded in 1901. Today it goes by the name Puerto Iguazú.
The area, known for perhaps what some consider the greatest waterfalls in the world, was first brought to the attention of the Europeans by Spanish explorer Álvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca in 1542.
prior to winding up in South America, Cabeza de Vaca had become famous for his exploration of the Gulf Coast of Florida, Texas and Mexico in years back. His exploits included getting captured and held by hostile Indians for a number of years but after his escape it’s said he became somewhat of an advocate for New World natives. He even went as far as performing the first ever surgery in what would become the State of Texas by extracting a large arrow point from a Native Americans chest that had become embedded close to his heart. Because of this feat he became endeared by local natives and highly respected. In 1915 a group of surgeons formed the Texas Surgical Society and accepted Cabeza de Vaca as the patron saint of the organization. His exploits gave him enough fame to raise money and carry on his passion for exploration in South America. It’s believed he had developed a good relationship with the native Guarani natives who inhabited the Iguazú area. Cabeza de Vaca had stumbled upon the Iguazú Falls after hearing their roar from several kilometers away. Unfortunately, for Cabeza de Vaca, in later years he found himself arrested after a stint as Governor in the region. It’s believed his preference toward treating natives with high regard was his political downfall. He was returned to Spain where he was jailed and put on trial and even though he was exonerated, he never returned to the Americas and died penniless in Seville, Spain around 1560.
It would be my guess that Álvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca's amazingly full life made him richer than most by the time of his death. Not everything can be measured with a dollar.

Guïra Oga Animal Shelter and Wildlife Center
If I’m to be honest, visiting animals in cages is no longer tops on my things to do but Guïra Oga is a different kind of "zoo' for the region and should be respected as such. Plus, it was right next to where we were staying. Kids will always enjoy these types of activities obviously and it’s always an opportunity to learn about endangered animals and the efforts to reintroduce them back into their natural habitats.
Through the efforts of a few, the self-funded sanctuary implements several important practices.
·      They focus on healing injured wildlife
·      Reintroduces wildlife back into historic environments and ranges
·      When animals are seized from illegal traffickers they reintroduce those animals back into the wild
·      Other zoo or circus animals go to Giïra Oga to also be reintroduced eventually
·      If an animal is just too sick or weak then it is simply taken care of
·      The sanctuary has also begun breeding programs for endangered wildlife
If you have a spare half-day to visit and support the sanctuary, know that you are ultimately doing a good thing. It is opened year round. Understand that when you go, the animals do not have the greatest amount of room. We were taken aback since we envisioned a pristine environment for the animals if it’s considered a “sanctuary”. You have to keep in mind the park survives solely on donations and entrance fees. No government agencies help them with funding.
So simply breathe in the air and enjoy your experience while you’re there. You’re walking through rain forest after all in a park run by people with nobel intentions.

Iguazú!
Ultimately, why most people visit Iguazú, is for the Falls. Depending on the list you look at, either Iguazú or Victoria falls in Africa are part of the 7 Natural Wonders of the World. It’s also a UNESCO World Heritage site… all for good reason. There’s nowhere else in the world like it. When compared against other mega falls like Niagara and Victoria, they are the largest amongst them in width hold the record in annual flow rate. They are simply breathtaking. Niagara can’t come close in their majesty and I have yet to visit Victoria at the time of this writing.
On the Argentinean side, the National Park is more laid back with a feeling of more freedom to do your own thing. You have options to walk the trails to view the falls or take tours. I usually don’t opt for tours but in this case it was a lifetime opportunity.
I had purchased our tickets online to take a boat tour to the cataracts as well as the park pass we’d need to enter the National Park. We had no idea what to expect. I didn’t know if the trip would be a fairly standard boat trip where maybe you get a little wet and simply get to see some great sites or if the trip would be more adventurous than that. The bottom line… do this if you can. Nothing could have prepared us for how fantastic the experience was. The falls along the canyon feel prehistoric. You can feel the power they wield as the specially designed boat takes you up river and through the rapids to ultimately visit Devils Throat. It’s here where you feel how alive the falls are and how insignificant you are. The world becomes bigger at this moment when you realize how fantastic it really is outside of those mundane days spent inside an office performing some task that can never be as big or powerful as that moment right then and there.
Enjoy it, take it all in. Hope the next person gets out of the experience as much as you will.

Las Tres Fronteras
There’s so much to do in the region. After all, you sit at the border of three countries. Brazil and Paraguay are just a short drive away. Prior to arriving we had lost a day due to a day long ‘strike’ by our Argentinean airline (Crazy stuff can happen in other countries with transportation). We had fully intended to pay the Visa fee to enter Paraguay but in the end decided the $100 dollars per person fee to simply walk into the country was too steep to only spend a few hours so we focused heavily on Brazil and the Argentinean side instead. We found the Argentinean side to be the most quaint and warming of the two sides. The restaurants were great, the atmosphere was warm and the walking around felt safe. The Brazil side was fine. We definitely enjoyed the time we spent over there and I’ll provide information on Foz do Iguaçu, Brazil in another article. Our preference was simply the Argentinean side. It felt more familiar. We had become somewhat familiar with some limited Spanish at this point but once you cross over the border, the language is Portuguese so another learning curve begins.
Still, there’s not too much cooler than the street venders at the park Hito Tres Fronteras in Puerto Iguazú. There you can visit various venders selling their wares like unusual handmade jewelry as well as more traditional souvenirs. You can also stand at the lookouts at the park and view both Paraguay and Brazil from across the Paraná and Iguazú rivers.rs.
One of the best times we had was the simplest. Everyone is always looking for "where the locals go to eat" when you travel. Well in Puerto Iguazú look no further than Salus Restaurant, which sits across from a lovely park called Paseo La Identidad. The food was so inexpensive and with the live entertainment, we felt like we were stealing. The locals sitting along side us at the other outside tables appeared to be having a great time. OK… so the pizza we go wasn’t five-star but it was still pretty good and completely perfect for the moment. It was exactly the type of place we wanted to be at.

I could absolutely spend a lot more time in laid back Puerto Iguazú.

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Chile: Hanga Roa (Easter Island)

If you are planning a trip to Easter Island there are a few things you need to know. First, you actually need permission to visit the island

Chile: Hanga Roa (Easter Island)

How not to Spend a Dollar

How not  to Spend a Dollar
The convoluted way we got to visit a legendary location

So in planning a trip to South America and needing to travel the main legs of the trip by using airline bonus points I had accumulated, we needed to decide how best to spend the points. We’re not rich by any means. We both have decent but demanding careers. Angela works in the medical field and I have worked for many years in the energy and real estate sector. Lately, I’ve been using my knowledge of travel to transition to another career. Generally we live fairly modest lives and can’t afford to travel in luxury like some. We do however try and use every trick in the book to travel efficiently and comfortably.

Easter Island was not a travel location that was on my radar. The remoteness almost seemed insurmountable and all I could imagine were the boatloads of money it would take to get us to one of the world’s greatest World Heritage sites.

Although we had always planned to go to South America we had originally planned a very different trip to Peru, Bolivia and Arica in Northern Chile. Our main goal was to see Cusco, Machu Picchu, Tiwanaku, La Paz and spend some beach days in Arica before making our way back to Lima to fly home. I still plan on that trip at some point but this wasn’t going to be the best way to spend our airline points so we revamped the our plans by looking at visiting further in South America like Santiago, Chile and Buenos Aires, Argentina. It would be more bang for our (airline points) buck.

Because I’m such a huge fan of Archeology and particularly megalithic sites, I immediately started researching sites we could visit. While Google came up with some that were close to Santiago, Chile and the other countries on our new itinerary, none could rival Machu Picchu or Tiwanaku except one… Easter Island.

A lesson in patience and Due diligence

Now if I’m to be honest, I never even knew Easter Island was part of Chile. It never occurred to me. Besides, even from Chile it was still a 5 hour flight out into the middle of the Pacific Ocean, so could we even afford the trip? Santiago was already booked. A quick Google search showed me that if we were going to go about 4 weeks out, which we weren’t because our trip was still about 6 months out, we absolutely could have afforded it. Round trip air was floating around $300.00 RT. The catch was that it was floating around $1200 to $1600 Round trip 6 months out when our trip was scheduled, which unfortunately was definitely out of our price range. LATAM Airlines was the only airline that did regular flights to Easter Island from Santiago so we couldn’t count on competition to bring down the price. I told myself I’d loosely keep an eye on airfare just in case. I went about planning our stay in Chile on the mainland.

As the months went by, I noticed an interesting trend when I would go to check on prices. The prices were always more expensive 3-9 months out and seemed to be cheaper 4-6 weeks out. I kept my fingers crossed that we’d be able to book a reasonable flight, as our trip got closer. About 5 weeks out the RT air from Santiago came down to about $330 RT. Afraid the price would go back up, I pulled the trigger on the tickets. I’m not sure if I would have waited another week if the price would have went up or down. Regardless, I’m glad I bought the tickets when I did because when it came time to board the plane, it was packed. Fortunately I had snagged plus seating for a nominal fee after we had booked by calling the airline. That extra legroom is nice on 5-hour flights. If I had waited a little while longer there’s a real good chance the flight would have been booked and we wouldn’t have been able to book another flight in the narrow window we would be in Chile.

A few things to keep in mind

If you’re planning to visit Easter Island as a US tourist know that you can only stay up to 30 days and not the 90 days you can stay in Chile because the island is considered a special territory. The island is small. You really only need a few days to see the entire island.

Some of the requirements to visit the island:

·      You need special permission to visit there. An actual invite letter provides proof of where you are staying. Obviously, we don’t know anyone there, but as it turns out, all that means is that you booked a place to stay. Once you book with an ‘approved’ hotel or hostel they will email you a letter. You have to book with a place approved by Senatur, which is Chiles official tourist department.

·      You’ll also need to fill out a Rapa Nui entry form (IRN) online, which you can find here. After filling out the IRN you’ll get a confirmation email that you’ll need to print so you can also present that to the PDI desk (Policía de Investgaciones) at the airport. They handle all the immigration paperwork. It helps to have all your ducks in a row before you get to the airport.

·      You’ll obviously need your passport and return ticket. No one-way tickets to Rapa Nui are permitted.

A great resource with step-by-step instructions is the Imagina Rapa Nui-Easter Island website. Once you have all these documents you’ll need to present at the Arturo Merino Benítez International Airport in Santiago. No one hassles you. We moved right through with the right papers.

A sacred destination

After a 5-hour flight we finally arrived in Easter Island at the Mataveri International Airport. It has a very long runway for such a small island. As it turns out, NASA chose the island as an emergency landing location for the Space Shuttle back in the day so the runway is the real deal. The terminal however, is really small. Some pilot’s struggle landing at some remote airports that have notoriously short runways but they definitely won’t have that problem at Mataveri.

Once in the airport you’ll notice a line off to the left, which I incorrectly assumed was the customs line. Even though technically we were travelling inside Chile, upon seeing the line, I thought maybe Easter Island was somehow still sort of it’s own thing and maybe they still wanted to put you through customs but that wasn’t the case. Instead, the line was for tickets to the National Park, which were $80.00 US per person. They’re only about $20.00 if you’re a Chilean citizen. There is also a place in town you can buy the tickets but it’s easier to just get them there. The majority of the island is a National Park so you’ll need the park tickets to see the majority of the archaeological sites.

I had also read they would stamp your passport with a special Moai stamp, which we both wanted, but unfortunately they stopped doing that at the airport. There is a however a special office in town that now does it. The person who sold us the park tickets was happy to direct us.

Our host sent a driver to pick us up to take us to where we would be staying. Similar to Hawaii, our female driver gave us each one Polynesian style lei. She welcomed us in English, albeit with a thick Spanish accent. We drove off towards our cabana, amazed and humbled we had made it to this very sacred destination.

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

November 2019
Chile: Hanga Roa

Yes... There's a Town on Easter Island

(and it's pretty cool)

Coming Soon!

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

November 2019
Chile: Hanga Roa

Hanga Vare Vare & Playa Poko Poko

Coming Soon!

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

November 2019
Chile: Hanga Roa

Tatooine

(I mean tattoo me)

Coming Soon!

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

November 2019
Chile: Hanga Roa

Odds and Ends

(and how not to die in one of most remote places on the Earth)

Coming Soon!

earth

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Santiago, Chile: A Little Complication

Only a few weeks before we arrived, Santiago had erupted in protests. Soon we’d find ourselves in one of the worlds greatest hotspots…

Chile: Santiago

A Little Complication

A little complication
We would be spending roughly 6-1/2 days in several locations throughout Chile. I had originally had us flying in and out of Argentina but had decided to fly into Chile and then eventually depart out from Argentina. It wound up being a great decision since we were able to add Isla de Pascua, or more commonly known as Easter Island (or Rapa Nui) to the trip. Before we made the trip to the Island however we intended to spend some time in Santiago and hopefully, Valparaiso. When I booked the trip my research had told me that Chile was one of the safest and economically sound countries in South America as well as one of the more expensive ones to visit. We were looking forward to experiencing all the culture that Santiago in particular had to offer. An important lesson on world traveling was about to unfold.
Unfortunately, a few weeks before we intended to arrive, Santiago had erupted in protests. What started out as a few kids jumping subway turnstiles to protest increased fares, quickly escalated into more serious confrontations with the police. A coordinated campaign by protesters soon followed that resulted in the burning down of various metro stations. In the end, all the stations reported some kind of damage that forced the metro to completely shut down except for one line. Soon after, the Chilean peoples world changed almost overnight. Reports indicated that the police, in an attempt to gain control, beat and in some cases killed some of the protesters and looters. The result of that action was the evolution of much larger crowds protesting overall dissatisfaction in the government, a cost of living that outpaces pension funds every year and the general deep economic disparity between the various classes. Protest crowds of one million or more started to become a regular occurrence just days before we were scheduled to arrive. All that unrest within just a few short weeks inevitably forced us to reconsider our plans.
We had booked an AirBnb close to the Bellavista neighborhood. Internet research had promised a bohemian style atmosphere with dozens of interesting sites within walking distance. Unfortunately it was also extremely close to Parque Metropolitan, which was the everyday epicenter of the daily protests. While it was tempting to pretend we were journalists documenting a revolution, our lack of experience dictated we might want to avoid the area on our own.
During the course of planning our trip I had built relationships with four very different individuals who lived in Santiago, each having a different take on the situation. One of the four actually got involved in the protests to a degree and he ironically was the only one who thought we should be ok staying in Bellevista. The other three thought it would be smart if we re-booked at a different location, which we did. We wound up staying in the Las Condes area during the entirety of our time in Santiago. It was an upscale area of Santiago about 45 minutes away from the city center and main protests.
My contacts also made sure we got safe transport from the Airport to our AirBnb. The protesters, on some days, had begun to shut down highways from the airport into the city. Renting a car on our own or relying on unknown transport could have possibly put us in the line of fire. Since any non-citizen involving themselves in domestic protests is illegal in Chile, even getting caught up accidently could have had very unpleasant results. There were just too many unknowns. I needed to find a way to eliminate the risk of us unwillingly getting mixed up in any potential dangerous situations. Of course that doesn’t mean we were any less interested in the unusual situation we found ourselves in. The four gentlemen I had connected with in Chile proved to be invaluable in making sure we stayed safe and still had a great time. There undoubtedly was a lot that we missed out on in Santiago due to the situation but when compared to what the Chilean people were going through, it was a small price to play.
sewer

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Economics and Politics
The area we stayed in was mere blocks away from the main mall, Alto Las Condes. It had just re-opened the day we arrived after being shut down for safety concerns due to the protests. A mall is literally the last place Angie or I would want to visit on any travel experience and yet, that’s exactly where we found ourselves. We needed some supplies. A contact that met up with us chose to take us there to get what we needed. The mall looked to be a fantastic mall with very upscale stores. That decadence was in stark contrast to the much poorer areas we drove past on the way from the airport to Las Condes and a reminder of why the protests were going on in the first place.
Every city of course has poor and rich areas. It’s the way of the world. What seems to be going in Santiago, as well as other parts of the world including in the U.S. is the divide between the rich and the poor is growing. The middle class in Chile has shrunk dramatically while the other two classes have grown exponentially. Our driver, whose main job was that of being a teacher, had to drive to make ends meet. Because of both of his jobs he wasn’t able to spend a lot of time at home with his family and children and yet, as he explained, was still one of the lucky ones. He was the one who also schooled us a little on the ultra rich of Santiago. The top 0.1%, of which the current President is a part of, decides the economic future of all of Chile and its people. The distribution of wealth is wildly unequal.
Chiles rich history at times has been a rocky one. To a large part, it’s been that way because of U.S. interventions in its politics for well over a century. Augusto Pinoche, gained power in 1973 because of help from a U.S. backed coup. The fear at that time was that the duly elected socialist government of Salvador Allende would move the country towards communism. After taking control as President, Pinoche went on to form one of the world’s cruelest autocracies. The US directly supported him all the way through the Reagan years. In 1988 U.S. policy shifted and by 1990 he was finally forced to leave office. Even then, through some sort of agreement it’s assumed, he still managed to maintain an active role in Chilean government affairs all the way until 2002. He died in 2006.
Chile, after the Pinoche regime, tried to reinvent itself. Moving towards a more capitalistic approach, it inevitably and maybe unintentionally, left millions behind. Many Chileans seemingly struggled moving into a future where capitalism is the new norm. Poor government planning and lack of good education for the bottom 40 percent contributed to the current situation. Putting money into education, training and protecting pension funds will go a long way in pulling Chile out of the current protest chaos it finds itself in. Even with promises by the current administration, many view it as too little too late and can’t help but to view recent government promises with a healthy bit of skepticism. The protests, still going on long after we returned home, seem unrelenting. The people’s patience has been long exploited by both the United States and the top 0.1 percent of the richest Chileans. The bottom 40 percent appears no longer willing to accept the status quo.
The current government controls most of the media. Much of what the top 40 percent and the small middle class see is what the government wants them to see. The media partially lays the blame of the bottom 40 percents problems at their own feet. While drugs or alcohol surely play a role in poverty it’s by far not the sole reason, but that doesn’t stop the media from spinning that theory. Dividing the people seems to be an effective tactic all over the world these days. Instead of figuring out a fair solution to age-old problems, the ultra rich work to maintain the status quo in order to protect their own interests. History shows that can only work for a certain period of time before the bottom half rises up against economic tyranny. This seems to be the crossroads where Chile currently sits.
For me, I’m not against being rich, I’m against being unfair and stacking the deck. The people in Chile want change and they probably won’t rest until the current administration completely steps down. The fear in Chile by the top 40% is that somehow that will result in Chile moving once again in a more socialist or even communist direction. Because there are two sides to every story its important to consider what’s in everyone’s best interest. The people on both sides have to figure out a healthy way forward for all. I wish them well. The people I met there, who are on both sides of the debate, are amazing people and deserve a stable, prosperous country that works for everyone.
sewer

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Color and Contrast
One of my contacts took the time one day to drive us into the heart of protest central during a quiet time. It was quite daunting seeing the military personnel, extensive damage and graffiti defacing much of Santiago’s historic center. Blackened debris, lying in the middle of the streets, marked locations of some of the previous nights fires. Numerous buildings, normally bustling with activity, were boarded up to protect them from damage and looters. The boards now sporting new protest graffiti. Although not entirely looking like a war zone it wasn’t so far away from that look that one couldn’t easily imagine it moving deeper in that direction.
It made me a little fearful for the contacts and people in general that I had met in Chile. While everyone seemed to understand change was coming, they still disagreed on the type and extent of change that was needed. They did however agree that the damage caused by some of the protesters was unproductive and harmful to the process. The media was blaming Venezuelans and Cubans as instigators while some of my contacts said that idea was mostly preposterous. The fear tactic of blaming outside countries seems like a cheap ploy when the proof that economic problems have been stirring for decades is clear for anyone to see that chooses to. Besides, if anyone knows anything about either of those two countries, they’d understand have their hands full with their own problems. Most of my contacts in Chile believed the protest damage was being caused by an unruly few and that 99 percent of the million plus protesters that showed up daily were peaceful. Videos, sent to me by a couple of contacts, seemed to lend credence to the latter.
sewe

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Our Experience
Overall we feel very privileged to have visited Chile during the time we visited. We wish we could have experience many of the museums and cultural places we had wanted to but it just wasn’t to be. Our contacts looked over us and possibly kept us a little too safe. My adventurous spirit would have had us walking through the protests and interviewing people. Of coarse, my way could have resulted in spending some time in a Chilean jail cell.
Our first night there we learned real quick that Chilean cuisine was amazing. Like its neighbor Argentina, it’s known for its great cattle and beef production. Also, because of the entirety of the countries proximity to the Pacific Ocean, it’s a major epicenter for some of the freshest seafood in the world. Chile’s amazing volcanic soil produces almost every kind of fruit or vegetable you could want. For the epicurious, it’s a dream destination.
But there’s a dark side. Overfishing strains the oceans while farming and cattle production strains the water resources. Many villages claim the world’s appetite for avocados alone drains millions of gallons of the precious resource. Avocados need up to twice as much more water than most other fruits or vegetables. Rainfall is limited in many areas of Chile and they receive a lot of water from glaciers high up in the Andes. Glaciers, that due to climate change, are now shrinking. Chile also receives up to 150 million in loans from the World Bank and other institutions to help in rural water supply. Like many of us, my near daily avocado consumption is part of the problem.
Santiago’s beauty is strongly accentuated with the backdrop of the Andes Mountains. The sunsets bounce incredible colors off the mountains in all directions. We found ourselves mesmerized with this phenomenon from the balcony of our AirBnb..
The Las Condes area we stayed in was a nice area but it's still just your standard suburban experience. That wasn’t what we had hoped for. There is so much more we need to experience in Santiago. Both Angie and I hope to make it back to see the real inner city of Santiago that we always try and experience wherever we go.
seweL

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

CUBA: No Escape from Reality

Maybe it was the soldiers that helped remind one you were in a Communist Country…

CUBA:

No Escape from Reality

After roughly 6-½ hours we landed in Havana’s José Martí International Airport, which first opened in 1930. It’s now comprised of two distinct terminals. Terminal 2, the newest, opened in 1998 once it became easier for some U.S. Charter flights to travel to Cuba. Back in the late 90’s, and throughout much of the 2000’s, it was mostly flights from New York and Miami that reunited once divided families split when the US embargos of the 60’s disallowed US airlines access to Cuba. Today it’s the terminal most often used for international flights while the old one is used primarily for only domestic. Something about Terminal 2 still feels way older than 1998. Maybe it was the climb down the stairs onto the tarmac and working our way toward the terminal, even though I’ve done that before. Maybe is was just the mystic of traveling to a location that for a long, long time was nearly impossible to get to directly from the United States. Or maybe it was the armed soldiers, although not overtly visible, that stood ready and reminded one that you’ve now entered a Communist police state country. Because it feels a little like 80's action movies retro it tends to make anyone’s first time in Cuba feel both exhilarating and a little bit dangerous.

Our flight originated out of Pittsburgh on United Airlines. It didn’t exactly didn’t start out so smooth. When traveling to Cuba one needs a tourist card, sometimes called a visa (although technically it’s not). Normal ways of getting one is through your airline, the Cuban Embassy or some online sites that claim you can get one through them. United sells them in locations where a direct flight leaves from, like Newark, which was our first-stop with a 1.5 hour layover mind you. For some reason the lady at the counter seemed to be believe we should have the visa in hand first. That would have meant we’d have had to either travel to the Cuban Embassy in D.C. or one of the destination airports where United sells the visa, like Newark, and then travel back to Pittsburgh to then board our plane (which then went directly to Newark). Luckily the lady at the counter saw how ridicules this was and allowed us to board before both our plane and our patience left us.
We traveled in early 2019 under the now banned “People-to-People” option. Cruises are now banned as well. You can still travel there under 11 categories, which if you stay within the US Customs set parameters, counts as a “travel license” granted by the U.S. Government. You don’t get an actual hard copy of a license; the US is simply allowing you to go there legally. The category that is currently the most popular is “Support of the Cuban People”. It’s a stricter, but very doable, version of the “people to people” category we used.
At some point I may write more in depth about what it takes to get to Cuba legally with the new restrictions, but today I’d rather just tell you about our trip.
Going through customs we were questioned about the amount of older cell phones and tablets we were bringing in. Research said those were some of the main items Cubans desired along with good candy, which we also brought. Since we try to travel light without checked baggage these items fit well in our carry on. We had intended to give them to people we knew we were going to meet to dispense as they saw fit. Far exceeding the amount allowed of two per traveler, we were surprised when customs allowed them through. They let us off with a mild warning making us feel like we had single-handedly defeated Communism.
Making our way outside, we came across a taxi stand unlike any other airport taxi stand we'll probably ever see again outside of Cuba. Lined with pre-1959 Detroit and American steel made classic cars, we were immediately jolted back in time. Some are in great condition while others are seemingly held together with band-aides, glue and duct tape.
We didn’t have the time to absorb the shock of seeing so much historic Americano on Cuban soil before the fierce competition from multitudes of drivers trying to earn our fare became the new focus of our attention. Call me paranoid, but I really don’t like to take chances on taxi drivers in foreign countries, especially aggressive ones. It generally makes me nervous and brings up memories of those 80's movies again where things went bad quickly. In talking to a few folks who had previously traveled to Cuba I was able to make a connection with a cab driver they knew and trusted who was able to meet us when we landed. It’s just something I try and do when I travel. The guy, whom I had contacted through WhatsApp, wound up sending his brother in his stead. Outside he was holding a sign with two names on it – Thor and Angela. While I don’t feel like I look like a Thor it seemed ok to just roll with it given Chris Hemsworth’s current popularity and at least one of us was a tall blonde – even if it wasn’t me. Fortunately for us, our driver even spoke a little English.
sewer

A Drive Back in Time…
It seemed like a drive of a lifetime… back in time. Cuba is myth. Cuba is legend. Expectations that the culture would have an exotic spin to it were well on their way to being fulfilled. There are not many places like Cuba left on the planet. Places stopped in time. That was even more evident sitting in the back seat of our pink, pre-1959, Buick convertible. Passing palm trees and numerous pre-Cuban Revolution American cars, as colorful as the Spanish architecture, could make anyone feel a little longing for simpler times.
Intentions here aren’t to write about Communism in Cuba but it can’t be ignored either. Many grew up in the cold war. Kennedy, Castro, the Bay of Pigs and the Cuban Missile Crisis are well known history. Still, Cuba surprised me in how little I really knew about the country and it’s people. We learn from propaganda machines and while much may be justified; it’s still easy to forget there are real people there. People like you and I, with sons and daughters who have successes and struggles, just like you and I. That will live and die, just like the rest of us. Many judge a country by the Government and the politics but that isn’t what a country is. A country is the people and the Cuban people I met are magnificent and proud.
One anomaly in Cuba that isn’t nostalgic is AirBnb. Even with an Internet that’s still in its infancy AirBnb has found a niche there. It perfectly qualifies for the “People to People” or “Support of the Cuban People” category. It takes all the guesswork out of trying to figure out if the Cuban government owns the Hotel you’re considering booking (a big no-no) or whether or not it’s privately owned. US Customs provides a list of where Americans are allowed to go and stay, but it frequently changes.
The mobile Network there is still sporting 2G and 3G and likely will be for some time. Not on this drive (but at one point in our trip) I picked up a sim card from the countries cellular company, Cubacel, to have better Internet access and be able to make local calls. With long lines out the door it was a pain and time consuming. I believe I had to pay for an entire month for about 70 dollars even though we only needed it for a week. Because of this sketchy Internet availability, most AirBnb hosts likely can’t get back to you immediately. The vast majority of Cubans rely on neighborhood government Wi-Fi parks that are hopefully in walking distance. There they connect via a phone card you can purchase at various locations usually marked with a “Cubacel” sign. Most visitors and tourists rely on the same phone cards and Wi-Fi parks.
Our drive from the airport to our AirBnb was going to take about 45 minutes. Along the way we drove past a surprisingly affluent area of well-groomed estates. Our driver explained that area had embassies operated by countries that maintain diplomatic relations with Cuba. We were mildly surprised such decadent estates still existed, but then again, why wouldn't they.
In Cuba you need cash and we needed to exchange some quickly even just to pay our driver. Barely anywhere accepts credit cards except maybe the big hotels. There are two different currencies in Cuba. The one visitors need to be concerned with is the Cuban Convertible Peso called the CUC. It’s pinned 1 to 1 against the US dollar. That doesn’t mean you’re going to spend a ton of money there because it’s 1 to 1. You could easily get by on a 100 CUC a day or less for two people. For reference, at one point I had bought an entire pizza for a dollar. Research had said we had several options to exchange Cuban pesos. Airport lines at the cambio de dinero (money exchange) are long so we wanted to avoid that. Another option was going into Havana to a bank to exchange but both cambios and banks charge a 10% fee plus another 3% as a processing fee. The third option would be a private exchange. I had arranged ahead of time with our drivers brother to possibly exchange so we could avoid the extra 3% fee and the lengthy lines. However, I wasn’t expecting his brother to take us directly to his home.
Driving into a barrio on the outskirts of Havana where fixing potholes, that our driver deftly out maneuvered, was apparently unheard of. The homes, many in need of a fresh coat of paint and basic maintenance, seemed tightly pushed together. I briefly wondered if this was how one loses a kidney. Apparently I’ve watched too many movies.
Eventually we came to a gated home. Our driver jumped out to unlock it so he could pull the Buick in. I made sure to note the he immediately locked it once we were safely inside. It was then a little girl ran up to greet her daddy with his wife not far behind. With a proud smile he introduced us. We managed to choke out a few “Holas” and “Gracias” along with our own smiles. Any concerns of losing a kidney immediately gone with the warm welcome we received. Our movie-style kidnapping left to only my imagination.
Just to make the reader aware, exchanging money privately in communist Cuba is frowned upon. It’s definitely not recommended for first time travelers unless you know and trust the person you’ll be exchanging with. We took a risk, but I like to consider the world isn’t as terrible as the gossipmongers and naysayers would want us to believe.
Making our way around back of his home we were also introduced to his elderly mother. Her smile lit up the home. We were surprised to learn then that our driver was also a preacher. I thought what an odd combo, preacher/taxi driver, but then when you hear taxi drivers in Cuba can make more money in a day than a neurosurgeon can in a month, you begin to understand why those old American cars are so valuable to the Cuban people. As the preacher went to gather up some money for us (I think we exchanged 500 dollars) his wife honored us with our first genuine cup of Cuban coffee much to Angie’s delight. It was made the perfect way over the top of the stove and likely the only way they ever made it in that house. For the exchange we paid the 10% fee, which you really can’t get away from, although I hear the percentage can fluctuate. We did save the additional 3% the cambio or bank would have charged us and from what I understand, if you stay in a hotel and exchange there, you’ll get charged even more than 3%. Knowing our driver probably can’t make financially in Cuba what we make here in the US, we hoped exchanging with him helped a little.
Rich or poor, money couldn’t buy the love you felt in his humble home. His wife was kind enough to make us a few more cups of coffee while we attempted to have discussions our driver attempted to translate. This was also unfortunately our realization why it was terrible we knew so little Spanish. With his family not knowing any English, you could sense the disappointment that we couldn’t communicate well, especially from our driver’s mother. There could have been so much insight we could have gained from them but the language presented a formidable barrier. I would have loved to hear, from someone like our drivers mother, her take on Che Guevara, Castro, the Cuban Revolution and America’s part in it all. After all, she lived through it all.
Even with the language barrier, it was still the perfect introduction to Cuba and the culture. Grateful, we left them with some of the candy we had brought as well a few other things we’d hoped they’d like. His daughter’s eyes lit up at the site of American candy.

Mi Casa, Tu Casa
Our Airbnb was in Casablanca across the Port of Havana from Old Town. Within walking distance would be the El Cristo de La Habana, a giant marble statue of Christ completed in 1958. Communist or not, Cuba maintains a strong connection to Christianity but maybe not surprisingly, also Santeria, which means “worship of saints”. Many claim that Santeria is a mix of West African beliefs and Roman Catholicism while others claim, as is often the case when something is misunderstood, that it’s a type of voodoo.
The price for our Casa was to be around $30.00 a night for a studio apartment with a private entrance, comfortable bed, a large bathroom and a tiled balcony overlooking the Port of Havana where all the large ships came in. Our hosts were incredibly gracias and over the course of our time there they felt more and more like family. A year after our trip we still stay in touch on WhatsApp and through Facebook.
The first day we arrived, the power was out. The previous evening a terrible storm had hit Havana with a rare tornado touching down. The storm killed 4 and injured 195. Our place wasn’t directly hit and was only impacted by lack of power. We decided to quickly check in and run down to catch the last ferry over to Old Town Havana which still had power and hoped by the time we got back maybe we’d have power. We brought our phone chargers. You don’t need a power adapter in Cuba if you’re from the United States.
The streets of Old Town were busy when we arrived. Cruise ships from the U.S. were still permitted at that time, so the streets were full of tourists.
Grifters trying to get tourists to spend their money inundated us with one offer after another. Many restaurants even have someone outside trying to steer you inside. The pressure and competition you feel from those out to hustle can be overwhelming at first. You get a sense the hustle is probably justified. Personally, I can both respect the hustle and also be turned away from it. It seems to be part of the human condition where we want to both help while simultaneously avoiding the desperation we perceive from others. It gives us that plausible deniability. Our hosts already advised us to avoid buying certain items like cigars off the street since they were probably counterfeit. Maintaining the discipline to simply say ‘no’ in a kind way, while still giving the respect of eye contact, is an art form. You’d think all of this would make for a bad experience but the opposite was true. It gave us a sense of appreciation and gratitude.
Although we were hungry we avoided eating out that first night because our hosts wanted to make us a dinner. Normally they charged an extra fee for dinner but waved it because they felt bad the power was out. Sensing this was important to them, we promised to return before sundown. A taxi took us back to our casa for about $6.00. Unfortunately the power was still out. The balcony was set up with candles and a small table. Our meals were amazing. My plate had included a large lobster tail, while Angela’s had ample vegetables, rice, salad and a Cuban style fish which I inherited since she is mostly vegetarian. It was humbling to know that while we had the minor inconvenience of no power that many people, just a few miles away, lost everything the night before. Our hosts were gracious and seemed very concerned that we might be upset because of the lack of power no matter how much we assured them we were fine. We fell asleep easily even though a business below our balcony had a generator running most of the night.
The next morning, with the power still out, our hosts amazing mother brought us breakfast with fresh squeezed juices, exotic fresh fruits, simple meats and eggs, as she did every morning during our stay. The coffee there was perfect and bottomless. They were surprised we consumed as much coffee as we did. By the end of our stay they just kept bringing it without much question. Angie would drink mine if I didn’t hold onto it. Apparently she thinks, because I drink mine slow, that it somehow means I don’t want it.
After taking the ferry over again and spending a second full day in Old Town the power had been restored by the time we got back that evening. For our remaining stay, our excellent hosts filled all our needs. They even arranged for a driver they knew and trusted when requested.

One day he took us to a beach about 40 minutes east of Havana called Playa Santa Maria del Mar. It’s a beautiful beach that lacks the big crowds you’d find at other similar beaches around the world. After a light lunch, a few hours of fun in the sun and some minor shopping at a few merchandise stands, our driver came back at the exact time he said he would. We asked if he had time to take us the long way home to possibly experience some sights we’d otherwise never get a chance to see. We ended up at Parque Lenin. A beautiful park that also happens to have a huge Vladimir Lenin monument created by a famous Soviet sculptor known for his ‘Soviet Realist’ style named Lev Kerbel.
It was interesting insight into how many Cubans still believe in the ideology Castro carefully had cultivated during his tenure. Our driver didn’t speak much English. The Lenin statue wasn’t what I expected when I asked him, through Google Translate, if he could show us the real Cuba. As an American, it's somewhat disconcerting to see a momument of someone still revered in a country only 90 miles away from another country where he's so reviled. It was a reminder that the Soviet Union and communist ideology will always be a part of the real Cuba. No matter what happens in the future the echoes from the cold war can never be erased, nor should they. It's an undeniable part of history.

Ironically there's another Parque Lennon in Havana. There you can get a picture sitting next to bronze statue of John Lennon on a park bench but unfortunately we never made it there on this trip. I suspect if I had specifically asked our driver to take us to Park Lennon that there was a better than 50/50 chance we would have still ended up at the one with Vladimir instead of John... and I'm ok with that.

ill

Havana Daydreaming
For me, travel is not only about the destination but it’s also about the people. Cuba, and more specifically Havana, has its own identity. It is its own museum. If it were an American, it would have its own social security number. There’s a rhythm and a vibe that feeds off its people and the people in turn feed off the city. The energy there isn’t necessarily perfect but there’s often a dark side to everything and Havana is no different. I would feel a profound sense of disappointment if the city weren’t honest and honesty is what Havana does best. It doesn’t hide from what it is, what it isn’t and what it possible could become. It’s not just a look down memory lane. For the first time in 40+ years there’s a new spirit being focused towards the future. It’s a proud city. It stands defiant in spite of what the mighty America and Cuba’s own communist regime have thrown at it. It still stands in spite of every literal and figurative storm that’s ever tried to destroy it. When the day comes that Havana becomes freer from restrictive policies and geopolitical control, expect its citizens to rise up to the challenge. Its 2.1 million citizens seem to be developing a clearer vision and direction of where they want to go and I’m sure they’ll be taking Havana and the entire Country along with them.
I for one am torn between wanting it to stay the same for my own selfish reasons and wanting to see the city and its people be exactly what they’re capable of becoming. Right now, when you walk down the main promenade along the Caribbean Sea, called The Malecón, you can’t help but notice the vacant dilapidated buildings. In most other major cities in the world this would be prime real estate filled with major hotels, upscale boutiques, restaurants and coffee shops. Yet this isn’t where the action is. Hardly anything along the promenade in Old Town, or the immediate neighborhoods headed west, is anywhere you’d want to check out. The Caribbean itself is the only real draw. For that reason alone, there’s something to be said for walking along the Malecón at sunset and watching the waters batter the storm wall while puffing on a genuine Cuban cigar. The history of Havana is a complicated one. The Cuban people who fled Cuba during the revolution, as well as many Americans who were forced to leave, had their properties confiscated. It’s a sore point between the US and Cuba. It seems to prevent relations from ever being normalized. Those who felt forced to flee, still lay claim to those confiscated properties. I can’t help but wonder looking at all the vacant properties what motivates the Cuban Government today to not try something new. There has to be a solution. The jobs alone that would be created from improvements would be astounding. There’s still a divide in Cuba between the have and the have nots so its not the preservation of perceived communism. The monthly stipend the Government provides doesn’t cut it for many. Moving forward may be a daunting task for the government but they probably can no longer go backwards now that the genie has been let out of the bottle. The times they are a changing… whether Cuba is ready or not.
New privately owned restaurants are springing up in special designated districts. Tattoo shops are popping up complete with entrepreneurial tattooists sporting Mohawks. I know, because we got tattoos to prove it. There are numerous options of art exhibits and dance companies to explore. Live rock music dances off 100-year-old Spanish architecture. The boundaries of freedom of expression are being experimented with in documentaries and editorial cartoons. The expanding middle class, now able to travel more freely because they now have the means to do so, are gaining business momentum in the world outside. Miami fashion trends now trickle into Havana more each day. It’s clear the city is slowly coming back to life. The transformation, now post Castro brothers regime, seems to have a life of its own. The current powers that be are still by all accounts, trying to find a way forward. Hopefully there are enough leaders that truly have the people’s interest at heart.
On one of our days we visited an oncology hospital. Working as an oncology nurse, Angela has developed a passion and curiosity regarding medicine around the globe. In this area Cuba is yet again considered special. Its doctors are notoriously some of the best trained. The hospital we went to was old. The bathroom in the lobby felt like using it might actually put you in the hospital. The equipment they had to work seemed sub par and yet their quality of care is among the best in the world. It’s a paradox they have the success there that they do. The doctors make less than the taxi driver who drove us to the hospital. Cuban doctors, many wanting from the time they were a child to follow in the footsteps of their idol and doctor Che Guava, are among Cuba’s best assets. An agreement with Venezuela, called the “Oil for Doctors” program nets 100,000 barrels of much needed oil a day to run those American Cars. It’s also one of the reasons why America is currently reverting back to once again punishing Cuba with harsher sanctions. The U.S. takes the stance Cuba is supporting Venezuela when in reality, from their viewpoint, they have limited options. The people stuck in the middle are really who suffers with higher gas prices, which cripples an already poor economy. It’s easier to be supportive of sanctions if you don’t have to look the countries people in the eye. A Cuba with less oil is a Cuba without some of those amazing American cars running the roads. What other country will step up give away oil for lending its doctors and simply training its medical community?
Cuba is starting to stretch its capitalistic muscle but they also seem stuck in a damned if they do and damned if they don’t situation. If Cuba is to find a way out from where they are it will take significant help from the outside world and patience. If that happens, will Cuba still be the same Cuba we visited? It may be only 90 miles from the United States but it’s still light years away from most things you know.
ill

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

ICELAND:

PLANNING THE CURRENT TRIP OF A LIFETIME!

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Upon Arrival
After we exchanged $300.00 in US money for Icelandic Króna at the airport, which lasted us for the entire trip since we mostly used the credit card for transactions, we headed over to Thrifty Car Rental to pick up our rental via a shuttle. Some car rentals are in the airport but Thrifty was about a quarter mile away. You have to stand outside for the shuttle so if it's cold keep that in mind if you want to rent from Thrifty. They did have the best rating and good prices.
Our chariot for the trip turned out to be a red Peugeot with a manual transmission. The Peugot was the cheapest option and It was great on gas. I've driven plenty of manuals in my day so I didn't think it would be an issue. We drove off and very quickly after making a wrong turn (go figure) I discovered I couldn't figure out how to put it in reverse (LMAO)! Imagine how we looked with Angie pushing the car backwards because she wasn't listed as a driver (who says chivalry is dead?), while I pushed it backwards with one leg out the door while trying steering at the same time. Both of us laughed at the wtf moment. Good thing we had a small car and weren't on any grade. We eventually made it back to the rental agency (only a few blocks away) and it turns out you have to lift the ring on the stick to put it in reverse. Who knew? The agent was only slightly patronizing towards us stupid Americans. I've personally never seen a Peugeot in the US and I don't think there are any dealerships. It's also been a while since I've driven a stick so I'm not sure if that's only a European design or it's made its way to the US in certain manual transmissions here? Anyway, once they told us how to go in reverse though, we were off and running with no issues. The car turned out to be fine for all the destinations we intended to go to. When reading other travel sites it makes it look like you need 4-wheel drive for everywhere you go but that’s not the case at all. I was worried because I imagined ice and snow but we didn't see any on the roads for the time of year we chose to go. The temperature never dropped below freezing. Maybe if you go during the winter you may want to consider a 4-wheel drive, but if you're only going to stay in Reykjavik you should know they are really good at clearing off the roads in Iceland. I understand some roads are even heated with geothermal piping to ensure they are always clear. Many sidewalks are as well. In fact, geothermal energy mostly runs the entire countries electrical grid, which is pretty amazing.
Our first stop after getting our car rental (besides getting a few things at a gas station like drinks and a few munchies) was the first of our two AirBNB bookings, which was in the small town of Akranes in the Western Region of Iceland. We booked there for 3 nights at a total of $245.00 dollars. Akranes goes all the way back to the 9th century. It was actually settled by two brothers from Ireland and at some point turned into a fishing village. The population today is roughly 7000 people and expected to grow thanks to infrastructure improvements like the Hvalfjörður Tunnel which opened in 1998. It is a true engineering marvel. The tunnel is over 5 miles long and is quite an experience by itself to drive through since its one of the worlds longest underwater tunnels. We half expected to see coffee shops along the way or maybe hoped there would be but there wasn't. The tunnel cuts down travel time between Reykjavik and Akranes from about 1 hour 45 minutes to just about 45 minutes if you drive the speed limit (so I made it in 20 minutes - joking - mostly). There was a $1000 Króna fee (about 9 bucks US) on Thursday when we arrived, to drive the tunnel one-way. Friday there was a sign "No fee today! Enjoy!". I just assumed the toll person didn't make it in that day, but discovered during writing this blog, that the tunnel actually went 100% free on that exact day! Lucky us! I understand that the 45-minute ride from Akranes to Reykjavik (or vice versa) may seem like a long drive for some, but unless you only want to spend time in Reykjavik, plan on a lot of driving anyway. It's part of the experience in Iceland so enjoy the scenery. The landscape is breathtaking. We did pick a day to even go the long way around the fjórd instead of taking the tunnel just to enjoy the amazing vistas, but more on that later.
The AirBNB was a private room built into an unattached garage with a fridge and microwave, a comfortable queen sized bed, a large wardrobe and a separate bath and small shower. The place was warm, had the basics and was super clean but did lack any real kitchen facilities. However, as a bonus we had access to the laundry area. We booked kind of late so our options were limited and as much as we tell ourselves we'll cook at the place we are staying to save money, we rarely do. We were able to make coffee and some pre-made foods that we picked up at a local grocery store. It was more than sufficient.
In Akranes or just outside of the town there are several Museums, which we opted out of. Not because it's not our thing but sometimes you have to prioritize what you can do. Sometimes, there simply is not enough time to do everything. There is also the Akranes Lighthouse, Langisandur Beach and Akrafjall Mountain, which is a nice hiking destination. We only managed to get to visit the lighthouse, which was beautiful. There we met a professional photographer from the US that Angie was able to talk into taking a great photograph of us. We did manage to take a few pics of Akrafjall Mountain, including one I got in the side mirror of the Peugeot, which I think is a cool pic (see the media carousel). We opted out of hiking the mountain or visiting the beach since we had other destinations in mind to hike as well as other beaches to visit. There's a shipwreck in town called Hofrungur that people love to photograph but we didn't make it there either. We did visit the friendly staff at the Lesbokin Cafe every morning for our latte fix as well as some breakfast items before we headed out to other destinations. English, by the way, is not an issue in Iceland. We didn't meet anyone who didn't speak English very well even though Icelandic is the official native language.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Mosfellsbar
We traveled to Reykjavik Thursday and Friday night. It's a great city to visit and from the looks of things, a great city to live in. It's by far the largest city in Iceland with about 125,000 people and approximately 215,000 total in the greater Capital Region. The next closest city, Akureyri, has about 19,000 people in the Northeastern Region to give some perspective. The Capital Region alone holds about two-thirds of all of Iceland’s population.
We took a short nap in Akranes before headed back into Reykjavik. We didn't sleep really on the overnight flight and so we needed to try and get at least some sleep. It's obviously better for time management if you can sleep during a plane flight but we all know it just doesn't happen sometimes. Upon awaking we headed back out and headed down Route 1 toward our destination - Reykjavik. We were starving and had no idea where we may eat. I had done some prior research that said the Old Harbour district was an up and coming area so we headed there.
We discovered a Restaurant called Marshall Restaurant & Bar that had a nice view of the Old Harbour. It was a little pricey, but what the hell, you only live once. They had this 5 or 6 course meal we both opted for. Angie, at the time, was a pescatarian and they made sure they adjusted her courses to accommodate her. The servers there were nice and accommodating. Each course that came out wasn't huge but all the courses combined more than filled us up. We were still pretty tired but couldn't believe we were actually in Iceland. The little bit we had seen so far was enough to know our journey was going to be epic.
After we ate we went and met up with some friends that we knew were in Reykjavik. By that time our day was winding down. We drove around Reykjavik somewhat to get a feel for things and to kind of scope out where we'd like to visit the following day. For a Thursday night we noticed that it seemed quite busy out still. It was about 9:30 at night. By the time we got back to our AirBNB we were feeling grateful for a nice clean warm bed to come to and crashed pretty hard. The large window had a black out shade that didn't let much light in which is a necessity in Iceland, especially in the summer months.
Friday, Angie got up and went for a quick run by herself like she likes to do. It was about 55º ƒ out and a beautiful day. After she got back and we showered we hit up the Lesbokin Cafe again for some more lattes and pastries before we headed back down Route 1 toward Reykjavik.
Along the way we passed new areas of reforestation, which is interesting. Iceland, before the Vikings razed the forests, was estimated to be covered in 25% to 40% forest but is now only has about 2%. That’s just up from a whopping 1% in the 1950's. The native species is mostly downy birch, which has failed to thrive when replanted thanks to the new warmer temperatures believed to be cause from climate change. Now, somewhat controversially, they've been forced to introduce non-native species better adapted to the new normal of a warmer climate that are mostly imported from Alaska. The experiment seems to be paying off and the forests are now finally growing better than anyone expected. My only complaint is that they plant the trees all in rows like a bad hair transplant. They'd look better more random but it's still nice to see familiar trees growing on such a strikingly barren landscape. Iceland has two basic climate zones, alpine and tundra. I could be wrong but it appears they are replanting in mostly the more moderate alpine zones.
We decided to stop before we got to Reykjavik in the area called Mosfellsbar, otherwise known as the wool district. There's a beautiful waterfall there named Alafoss and a world famous wool store that goes by the same name. We didn't wind up buying any wool though because it would have been too hard to fit into our already packed luggage even though they can ship it directly home. Besides, we could buy at their online store at our leisure and control better when it got delivered. Angie did manage to pick up a some cool post cards and stamps that she could mail back to family in the US. Of course we also visited the beautiful Alafoss waterfall along with a cool local handmade knife shop just a couple doors up from the wool store. The guy working there was very interested in explaining and showing what they do there in knife handle making and he let us use the back door to exit out to get a great view of the famous waterfall. Out front on the main road from the knife shop there were some interesting artistic artifacts we took some photos of. We then headed on the other side of Route 1 to a local bakery shop in Mosfellbaer for some delicious pastries and a few more lattes (are you seeing a coffee pattern here?). There across the street we spied a post office with a box outside named "pósturinn", which for some reason reminded us to pee before we left the pastry shop. Angie fulfilled the minor goal of filling out the post cards and mailing them back to the US before we continued on to Reykjavik proper.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Reykjavik
Upon arriving in Reykjavik our first stop was the world famous Hallgrimskirkja Church. It's among the tallest structures in Iceland at 244 ft tall (74.5 meters). The famous landmark is actually a Lutheran Parish and is named after a poet and clergyman. It took 41 years to complete the building of the Church. There is a statue immediately outside facing Skólavörðustígur Street of the famous explorer Leifur Eriksson, who discovered North America almost 500 years earlier than Christopher Columbus. The beautiful statue was made by American sculptor, Alexander Stirling Calder, and donated in 1930 to the Icelandic people to commemorate the 1000-year anniversary of the Icelandic Parliament, which they call Alpingi. It is the oldest Parliament in the world.
Inside the landmark Church, there is a large pipe organ built by the famous German organ builder Johannes Klaise. When we were there James D Hicks, a composer and concert organist from the US, was playing and practicing for his concert that was to follow on the next day. Hick's is a true world-class organist we just got lucky going when we went since this was a completely unadvertised practice session. The pipe organ is almost 50 ft tall and its sound and setting make it seem like listening should only be reserved for royalty or gods, so of course we felt right at home.
Back in the main lobby, an elevator will take you up to the observation deck where you get beautiful views of the city of Reykjavik. We recommend this experience. Some people may not want to spend the 700KR (about $5.70 US) to ride the elevator to see the views... I mean really? Spend a couple bucks. How often do you think you'll be able to visit Iceland and see it from the top of one of the tallest structures in Iceland? Choose to live a little. On a windy day it could be cold up there even though it's mostly enclosed. I wouldn't worry about vertigo since you're not on an open deck or anything. It's basically like looking out a window of any other tall structure except you're in freaking Iceland! Hallgrimskirkja, with its enlightened location on the top of a hill along with its superior height, gave us outstanding 360º views of all the different colored buildings that dot the landscape. The mighty North Atlantic, with its raging white caps, is also there for you to see from a vantage point unlike any other in Reykjavik. Only the mountain next to Reykjavik named Mt. Esja may offer better views. Let us know though if you decide to make the time to climb Mount Esja. If we had had more time we may have opted for that day hike.
After doing the typical "touristy" Hallgrimskirkja tour, which I think is mandatory; we headed down Skólavörðustígur Street to a little place called Street Dogs. Inside the shop there are some interesting pictures and items on the walls where I first discovered Icelanders fetish toward Grace Jones. Angie actually works with a lot of people who have visited Iceland and they all said we had to have a hot dog. Coming from the US, where the hot dog isn't much of a big deal (at least for me, please no hate mail) I was skeptical of how much better an Icelandic hot dog could be than your typical American Coney or similar. I mean, a hot dog is a hot dog right? Wow, was I wrong. Angie, who is mostly vegetarian and the occasional pescatarian (she absolutely doesn't eat any meat), encouraged me to have the hot dog and simply sat back and let me indulge. The hot dogs are fairly inexpensive and make an easy great lunch. They are usually topped with onion and sweet mustard they call Pylsusinnep. The hot dogs are a combo of lamb, pork or beef in natural casings. It's advertised there in Iceland that basically all animals there are free range, drink the cleanest water, eat organic grains and wow the hot dogs sure taste like it. The hot dogs taste way healthier than most American counterparts so don't feel bad having one. Writing this makes me want one right now - seriously, they are that good. Can't wait till they make their way to the US.
Angie, for her part, got addicted to the Icelandic yogurt there called Skyr, which is different than the "Icelandic" or “Skyr” yogurts back here in the States. Again, they are only made with the best ingredients and the dairy (Angie obviously does dairy) is again processed from free-range animals in pristine environments. It's cultured differently than regular yogurt and is half as tart and therefore needs less sugar.
After our small late lunch to tide us over we drove back down the hill from Hallgrimskirkja into Reyvavik closer to where we drove a little the day when we kind of scoped the place out. Upon parking (and paying the meter even late on a Friday night) we discovered our license plate said "ZEN". How appropriate since the journey so far seemed like a spiritual one. We recommend marking your position on your phone with Google maps before wondering around aimlessly. It's easier to find your way back to your vehicle when you need to leave.
Our first stop was a little coffee shop (of course!) combination bookstore called the Ida Zimsen or a.k.a. The IDA Bookstore. It's a quaint little store with lots of interesting things to browse. The lattes were great, as they seem to be everywhere in Iceland. Honestly it was just sort of nice to sit down for 10 minutes and take it all in. Leaving there, we bobbed and weaved in the flat area of Reykjavik close to the bookstore mostly just window shopping and walking into various stores, although we did pick up a few things to take home to my daughters and her son. Expect to find a lot of books and items mentioning elves. Elves are very real to some Icelanders even though us Americans may regulate them to myth and legend. I'm going to go out on a limb and say we Americans may be right on this. You can try and fight me if you disagree.
At some point we headed back to our vehicle to grab a few things before deciding, after gaining confidence, to venture further away from our vehicle. Following the people traffic we discovered what looked like a super popular area that extended up a hill somewhat. The roadway named Bankastraeti, turns into another road named Laugavegur. It's lined with various stores, restaurants and bars.
Right at the beginning of Bankastraeti Street, before heading up the hill, we accidently came upon the amazing Icelandic Punk Museum. It was totally unexpected. Angie and I are big fans of Punk music. At some point while driving we even went on a Social D binge while throwing in the occasional Iggy pop here and there. The museum used to be a public bathroom! How freaking genius is that? The attendant there took a donation and we had fun taking pics. It's an easy place to miss out on so keep your eyes out for it. Make sure you check out Duff from Gun's and Roses autograph. I'm happy it wasn't an Axl Rose autograph or I may have had a hard time getting Angie to leave her childhood crush.
From there we walked up the hill further discovering Iceland’s fetish with Grace Jones as well as Chuck Norris. Seriously, if you pay attention you'll see them everywhere. Along the street there are multitudes of Restaurants and bars and plenty of places to spend your money. Walking by a hostel a guy even asked if wanted to smoke a joint! We didn't but it's ok if you take him up on it... haha. At some point after checking out the menus, often advertised out front of the restaurants, we decided upon a place to grab a bite to eat (but we forgot to take pictures). The food and atmosphere was great albeit a bit pricy and our waiter was actually from somewhere in eastern Europe and spoke several languages including English and said he loved living there with his family.
Even though we forgot to take pictures of the Restaurant I have to remind myself it's ok to not record every moment and I suggest you don't either. Enjoy just being there with whomever you are with - even if you travel alone. Iceland feels like one of the safest places you could ever visit as far as crime goes so solo traveling is a real option. You'd be more in danger of stepping off a cliff there than getting robbed. There are a lot of cliffs so that’s legit.
If we would have continued up the road just a bit more we would have ran into the Icelandic Phallological Museum. Yes, it's a museum filled with dicks ( I mean penis). It's a good thing we didn't make it there since you can fill out a form to donate your penis when you die. Angie had been trying to talk me into it before we left home but I wasn't feeling the idea - no pun intended. I mean, you never know when you might need your penis after you die. I do not want to be separated from my penis for any reason and after the conversations Angie and I had I may need to make that clear in my will. So, after a long day, instead of donating my penis we boringly headed back to Akranes to get some sleep. This was our extent of exploration in Reykjavik - and IT WAS AWESOME!

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Glymur Falls and Krauma
The following day we woke up a tad late and once again hit up the Lesbokin Cafe for the wonderful Icelandic coffee and a few fresh locally made baked goods. Our plan for the day was fairly simple. We wanted to chase down one of Iceland's great waterfalls and we wanted to visit one of the hot springs spas we've read about... all with a late start. I guess we like challengesl. We were kind of up late the night before and were still pretty exhausted from the flight. I'd rather not sleep in on vacation but sometimes you just do. We didn't beat ourselves up about it because after all - we were still in freaking Iceland.
From Akranes we headed west on Route 51, then north on Route 1 for a very short while before making a right. We then followed the winding Route 47 along Hvalfjordur (Whale Fjord) for about 43 KM (27 miles), which only took a little under an hour. The scenery along the way was incredible. The majestic mountains and numerous streams cut deeply down to meet the calm waters of Whale Fjord. The abundant green vegetation and stark lack of many trees mixed with the obvious volcanic rock formations felt like the simple driving experience would etch the Iceland scenery and topography into ones memory forever. The isolated farm houses, with large red barns and grazing horses and sheep, reminded us that someone is lucky enough to see this amazing landscape every day. It made us wonder if they still appreciate it the way we were at that moment. We also wondered if we lived in such a beautiful isolated scenic environment if we would still appreciate it day after day. In Iceland maybe you would, since the seasons are vastly different. Every summer I doubt you could avoid being grateful for the light and warmth since the winters are so dark and cold.
Looking at the waters of the Fjord as we drove along side it you should also be keenly aware that it's been home to a rich but maybe dark history of whale hunts. Even in today's world, it's still very much ingrained in the Icelandic culture and heritage, although that does appear to be changing. For me, I can accept that at one time maybe there was a need for whale blubber back in the day. Every part of the whale back then would not only provide food but much needed heat and light to many people in Iceland and indeed across the world. Even though food from the oceans is a large part of my personal diet, I can't wrap my head around why there would be any need to still hunt whales in today’s modern world. To me they are majestic animals with an intelligence level that may only be only second to us humans, especially those in the Dolphin family, like the Orca. I love the people and culture of Iceland but I'd never condone whale hunting. The Icelandic Government, one of the most progressive on the planet, will still allow about 2000 whales to be hunted up through 2024. Mostly Minke and Fin whales, the latter of which is is considered endangered. Fin whale meat is largely sold to Japan while the Minke whale meat is actually sold in Iceland and as it stands, to a lot of tourists visiting Iceland, a fact we never even considered when we planned our trip. Looking back at this now as I write this, I do not know if any of the places I visited and ate, served whale meat. It's entirely possible. We knowingly would not have supported any restaurant that had whale on the menu. I don't remember seeing any on the any menus, but it's possible we missed it. If you plan on going and don't wish to support the whaling industry, maybe this knowledge will help you pick restaurants that don't encourage the slaughter of endangered species and support a dying industry. It boggles the mind to think tourists would go there and seek out places to eat whale meat but a lot of what people do these days boggles my mind.
There are many more amazing Fjords across Iceland besides Hvalfjordur, we simply couldn't visit them all but we encourage you to. The journey across from Akranes to the western side of Hvalfjordur was a tremendous ride in our little red chariot. Once we got to the far Western side we needed to make a left toward Vesturland for a few short miles. After another left, then a slight right on a dirt road we then arrived in a gravel parking lot with maybe 10 vehicles. Some definitely looked like tour vehicles for tourists. At the far end of the parking lot appeared to be the beginning of the trailhead leading up to Glymur falls. We were a little tight on time since we got a late start. We had reservations for our next destination, which meant we needed to get moving if we wanted to try and see the falls.
The hike up to the falls is not a bad one. On a challenge level between 1-10 I'd give it a 3-4 up until the point we made it. We are in good shape though and the only reason I don't give it a 2-3 is that some of the trail can maybe be too steep for some folks. No we didn't make it the entire way to the falls so the difficulty could have increased past the point we stopped as well. I know, that makes us terrible guides but let me explain and maybe you won't make the same mistake. You have to cross a raging stream of freezing cold water to do it right and we didn't know that going into the hike. I'm sure other sites talk about this little fact but we missed it apparently. We were also tight on time. We could have went up the left side of the stream without crossing but its not the best vantage point to see the falls so we turned back when we felt we had gone far enough to make sure we made our next destination on time. We could see the mist from the falls from where we stopped and still had an amazing hike. For us it was more about the journey than the destination. In order to cross the stream we either would have had to try and cross barefoot, which seemed like a terrible idea, or have brought waders of some sort. We didn't pack with the idea of crossing a stream. You may decide its worth it to complete the hike and figure out your own solution to reaching the falls. Let me know if you do. On the way back to the car we enjoyed some more stunning primordial vistas that you really can't see anywhere else on the planet. We also noticed when we got back to the parking lot that the back of the sign at the trailhead was covered with stickers from all over the world. The hike proved to be, even just to the point we made it, completely incredible. From there we headed to our hot springs spa destination. We had dinner reservations at 7 pm and didn't want to miss out. We were pretty hungry after our hike and still about an hour drive away.
Everyone it seems has heard about the Blue Lagoon of Iceland, which is close to the main airport, but we decided to try a relatively new, way out of the way place, called Krauma. The Blue Lagoon, from our research, seemed more like a fancy overpriced pool that was basically fed from the water of the local geo thermal plant, and while all the pictures of the place looked cool, we wanted to go someplace that was fed directly from the earth. Krauma fit the bill and seemed more authentic and less touristy. Yes, you can argue that the Blue Lagoon water goes from the earth to the geo thermal plant and then to the Blue Lagoon but we still wanted to cut out the middleman. Having the water go to the geothermal plant and then to the "pool" just seemed too sterile and fake. Plus we wanted to eat dinner in a less touristy place and Krauma looked like hit all the wishes on our wish list. Links to both the Blue Lagoon and Krauma are here so feel free to make up your own mind. Krauma was way cheaper as well and the journey getting there from Glymur Falls is something we'll always cherish. Long dirt roads and epic scenery - who wouldn’t want that? Krauma had decent vegetarian options for Angie while I had some sort of fish. Our 8 to 9 pm time slot, wound up making the thermal spa part of the visit, feel really private and mostly to ourselves. The staff was very friendly and the scenery that appears in front of you from the outdoor spa only needs dinosaurs to complete the picture. The steam vents create an otherworldly fog in the landscape and surround you. Obviously, almost the entire island is geologically active but it's still a bit unnerving, exciting and oddly relaxing to see it in action right in front of you.
I had booked the late spa spot at Krauma in hopes of seeing the Aurora Borealis (the Northern Lights) while soaking in the outdoor hot springs but we didn't see them while we were there. Unfortunately it was too cloudy. On the way back to our AirBNB we took somewhat the long way home. We went as far north as the town as Borgarbyggd just above Akranes. We had spotted the town lights across another fjord and wanted to see if there was anything open where we could get a few snacks. On the way back from there the sky magically cleared while we were on a very dark patch of highway. We began to notice cars pulled off to the side out in the middle of nowhere and then it dawned on us. The NORTHERN LIGHTS! We quickly pulled over and there it was, one of our bucket list items, the dancing greenish colors of the Aurora Borealis. Seeing it for the first time can make you forget to breath.
By the time we got back to our AirBNB, we were tired and ready for bed. We had a big day ahead since we planned on moving our home location to a completely different part of the island the next day. It's all about the adventure.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Þingvellir National Park
The next day Angie went to wash a load of laundry before we headed off so we could have some back up clothes for our journey. For some reason the clothes were taking forever to dry so Angie and I took off and once again went to grab some coffee from our favorite Akranes coffee shop. I really wanted my jeans to dry before we left but when we got back the jeans were still really wet. Angie wanted to leave to get on the road while I on the other hand wasn’t comfortable wearing my only pair of jeans and laying out my wet jeans somewhere in the vehicle for them to presumably dry over the course of the day. It caused a bit of an argument. We were supposed to check out by 11-noon and we were now once again running late to get our day started. We had almost finished our coffee and were arguing over whether or not to let the jeans dry when I decided to jump back in the car and that's when it happened. My only pair of dry jeans split completely up my backside. So i guess I de facto scored the walkover victory as we then both sat in silence, besides her almost unnoticeable chuckle, waiting for my jeans to dry. I sat stubbornly angry because Angie had tried to push me to leave. I imagined in my head how my life would have been the rest of that day if we had left without drying the jeans, while also simultaneously sitting embarrassed my butt was completely hanging out. Angie mostly just sat looking agitated because after all, it was left up to her to keep checking (at least 4 times) if the pants were dry as well as explain to our host why we still were not out of their life. Angie's inability to control her occasional quiet laugh only made me madder. Eventually, our AirBNB host came out also sporting a grin. Glancing at me sitting sheepishly in the car, she handed Angie my dry jeans and then waved to me laughing. I unsuccessfully tried to act cool in waving back. Then they both laughed before Angie turned and gave me a more serious look trying to wipe the smile off her face while also trying to pretend she didn't in fact tell the host I couldn’t get up to thank her because my ass cheeks were hanging out. Right now as I type this, I'm fairly certain the entire small town of Akranes, Iceland has by now heard the story about the Americans who once stayed at her place while one gallivanted the neighborhood with his ass bared for all to see. Angie later admitted I was right to want to stay till our clothes were dry since I would have likely wound up in 50 degree weather with a cold ass because either it would be hanging out or stuffed in cold wet jeans. Even still, she’s definitely the one who felt victorious since I had the deal with the humiliation of my unfortunate situation. That in and of itself was a win for her. She gets to tell the story for life. We were probably several miles away before conversation started to return to normal. The Icelandic scenery makes you forget about any petty squabbles. It was so much bigger than us. We made up quickly as we always do and resumed our magnificent tour of Southwestern Iceland.

Our destination objective was a hostel in the middle of what is called the Golden Circle just north of the town of Selfoss. The Golden Circle is a 186-mile (300 k) route in an area that takes up the southwestern corner of Iceland and encompasses many natural attractions. With our little red chariot down for the task, we headed back out of Akranes and down to Route 1 again and then west along the unexplored Route 36. We didn't stop until we hit the Þingvellir (Thingvellir) tourist information center. After some needed sustenance (soup and sandwiches) we drove a short distance south into the Þingvellir National Park to a parking area and climbed up the walkway to see the magnificent Öxaráfoss waterfall. The more important journey, to me, was getting to see the extreme geologic process surrounding us. One could argue that Þingvellirs true fame comes from the fact that it sits in a geologically active rift valley where the North American and the Eurasian tectonic plates are literally splitting apart. There are so little places in the world where you can witness this earthly process on land. Others could argue that it also happens to be the historic site of the original Alþingi (Althing). The Alþingi, the oldest Parliament in the world, was set in Þingvellir National Park from the 10th Century until the 1800's after which it moved to Rekjavik. We also took a trip to the main Visitor Centre to cap off our visit. By this point we wanted to check out our new digs at the Ljosafosskoli Hostel we had found on AirBNB. For me it would be my first Hostel experience while Angela had had several experiences before that were not really that great and yet, not terrible enough to say never again. We had read the reviews and had high hopes for this place though and when we got there we were not disappointed. The place was great. It was just south of the National Park and north of the town of Selfoss in an old schoolhouse. It was incredibly clean and only cost $172 bucks for two-nights, which is cheap for Iceland. The room we got was entirely private and extremely clean. Sharing the super clean bathroom was a non-issue as well since the old schoolhouse had several on each floor.
After we got unpacked we decided to head out to check out the town of Selfoss, which was about 20 minutes south of the hostel (the hostel actually had a Selfoss address). We needed to try and grab a bite to eat and actually found a little Thai place called the Restaurant Menam. We loved the atmosphere, the food and the affordable menu. Unfortunately, at the time of this writing, the restaurant appears to be permanently closed or I would have posted a link. There are several other Thai restaurants in the small town though as well as various other options. The good thing is that with all the options you won't have a problem getting a bite to eat as long as you get to town at a reasonable hour. Everything seemed to shut down fairly early. Also appeared to be a great little town to go shopping in for items to bring home if you get there early enough.
Before headed back to the hostel we decided to pick up some breakfast items that we could cook back at the hostel for our two-night stay. After all, it boasted a full kitchen and large dining area. I was told that sometimes they may be light on silverware there since people travel the all over the island camping and hostel jumping and tend to "borrow" the silverware permanently so it may be prudent to pick up some plastic silverware along your journey just in case.
On the way back to the hostel the clouds showed some clearing and once again we spotted the northern lights. We pulled over and enjoyed the show for a time. When we got back to the hostel we took some time to explore it a bit. It had a great reading room as well as a large gymnasium that they left intact from when it was a school. We marked and put away our groceries and hit the bed, which was surprisingly comfortable. The place was very quiet and we had no problem sleeping but you may want to remember to pull the blackout blind down if you plan on sleeping past when the sun comes up. The huge window in our room would have left in an incredible about of light otherwise.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Geysir, Reynisfjara and Vik
Waking up the next day we were able to get hot showers and make a decent breakfast with our supplies. We became even happier that we had booked the hostel because all around us in the dining area we could hear the different languages being spoken. We could pick out some German, Scandinavian, Irish and Spanish. You couldn't help but wonder what everyone’s stories were. What had brought them here? Knowing only English we mostly just sat back and listened to all the colors of the languages echoing off the hostel walls. It was a reminder that we were officially sitting on the Eurasian tectonic plate. This is why we came. This is why we love to travel.
After breakfast we headed out to our first destination - Geysir. It was East of where we were. I had packed and downloaded maps for my Garmin and it worked great in Iceland. It was about an hour drive of more great scenery. Of course Geysir is a true basic tourist destination but it's also still a really cool destination. Neither Angie nor I had ever seen a geyser before (in Iceland it's spelled Geysir). We hadn't yet made it out to Yellowstone. At Geysir you'll find a restaurant, hotel and souvenir shop. I guess that’s standard for most of the major tourist locations in Iceland. The rawness of the geological landscape is incredible. I read this is the first geyser known to modern Europeans. Eruptions can go as high as 230 ft. At times the eruptions can be infrequent, so they are not like old faithful but when we were there they seemed to happen every 10-15 minutes. Geysir is also of particular historical significance because it's believed to be the first one known to be described in written text going back millennia. We thought our visit to Geysir was well worth it although it was in stark contrast to the next location we planned to visit.
Leaving Geysir, we had decided to bypass Gulfoss waterfall due to time constraints. If you have time though you may want to check it out since it's not far from Geysir. There are so many wonderful waterfalls in Iceland you could probably spend an entire month or more exploring them all. Instead, we headed south on a two-hour epic journey passing through extreme landscapes and the small town of Flúðir(Fludir). There in Flúðir, there are natural Hot Spring pools you may want to visit they call the Secret Lagoon. Since we had already done the Hot Springs thing we did not visit these particular hot springs. From the research online though they do seem like another good option if you're trying to avoid the more “touristy” Blue Lagoon. Also, If you look online, there are hotels in the town of Flúðir. An overnight stay could give you more time to check out the immediate area more thoroughly than we did. We were just passers by...
Eventually we once again reached Route 1. By this time I finally realized that Route 1 basically does a large circle around most of the entire island nation of Iceland so if you're going to spend much time traveling Iceland you'll get to know Route 1 fairly intimately. It will be like an old friend every time you meander back onto it. Eventually, as we drove further south, it started bordering the ocean. It took us past where you'd want to turn down to get to the Western Islands. Honestly my biggest regret is not making time to take the ferry over to the Westman Islands and the town of Vestmannaøerne. It looks like it would have been an amazing addition to our journey. It would have taken the better part of an entire day but I bet it would have been worth it.
A little past the Westman Islands turnoff is about where you can view the Seljalansfoss waterfall from the road. Angie got out in her blue Versace leggings to take pictures while I got out and took pictures of her in her blue Versace leggings AND the waterfall. From my standpoint it’s hard not to appreciate both with an edge going to the leggings. (A little side story here. She refused to buy Groupon leggings for the trip when I suggested she should since she could get a lot for little. I guess she didn't like the possibility of getting poor quality and she found the Versace ones right before we left. I was wrong and I further plan on staying away from and out of the legging/Groupon debate from now on. Now, back to the story) Continuing the drive toward our destination we also got to see Skógafosswaterfall also from the road. Both waterfalls are worth a look.
Soon enough after Skógafoss and a pee break we finally ended up at the world famous destination of Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach. There are warning signs all around the beach about rogue waves and apparently they're legit. People have been washed out to sea and drowned because of these unexpected waves. They suggest you don't venture too close to the ocean, but people do. That said, this by far is a destination you cannot miss out on if you are visiting Iceland. When the members of Led Zeppelin wrote the Immigrant Song after their visit to Iceland in 1970 I'd like to imagine that it was this location in particular that inspired the line "Hammer of the Gods'. There's a video somewhere of me driving through Iceland with the song blaring loudly in the background. It's here, in this spot where you can experience the power of the ocean, the power of the air and the power of the earth all in one place and if you bring someone you love and can mix love into all that - well then that’s what they call magic. The dark forbidding purplish haze only added to the almost spiritual experience. Angie would tell you it absolutely was spiritual. The cliff faces carved into geometric patterns are actually created by a known geologic process. A thousand years ago though when the Vikings first set eyes on the cliffs they likely imagined giants or Gods carving out the landscape with mighty hammers. It's truly a site to behold. While we were there it was incredibly windy. So windy in fact that it felt like it could blow you over. The spray off the ocean got us pretty wet. Luckily we prepared for this by bringing a set of dry clothes just in case. There's also a small restaurant at the beach entrance that serves food and hot Icelandic coffee, which Angie and I obviously partook in since we rarely pass up a good cup of java. We used it afterwards to change into dryer clothes and warm up. The wind combined with the mist goes right through you on the beach, so come prepared.
From Black Sand Beach we drove another couple miles to check out the small seaside village of Vik, also known as Vík í Mýrdal. We first checked out the view from a fantastic church you'll find there that sits up on the hill overlooking the town then we headed down into the town to explore and find some grub. We settled on Smiðjan Brugghús, an interesting little restaurant with decent food at a decent price. The atmosphere there was great and the wait staff was very attentive and friendly. It's basically a brew house with a craft brewery in the background that you can see through the paned glass. Angie and I enjoyed the meal and watching and listening to the people surrounding us. We were both pretty hungry after a long day and now we got to have a meal in a great location in a small fishing village of less than 300 people far off in the North Atlantic. You couldn't ask for better than that really. Something about eating and interacting where the locals eat that makes you feel more appreciative of the world around you.
At the end of the night we embarked on the two-hour journey back to our Hostel to get some rest. At night, in Iceland, there's not much to see if there's cloud cover like there was that night. No dramatic Northern Lights and no amazing geological landscapes. Just quiet driving in the company of my best friend. This would be our final night in Iceland.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Hammer of the Gods
Between Two Continents
Leaving the hostel the following morning was hard. It was such a pleasant stay. We again made ourselves some morning breakfast and coffee while listening to the chitter-chatter of some of the world’s languages. We checked out on time and had one more destination in mind before checking in at the airport. I had wanted to drive straight south and completely along the southern coast along route 427 which is supposed to be spectacular but I somehow got distracted and missed my turn. That’s actually really unlike me but we were too far past where I should have turned before I realized it and I wasn't going back since ultimately we had one more destination and still a plane to catch.
Along the route we did take we stopped at one location where there were numerous crosses by a large mound. The image was striking and we took some pictures. Our friend Kristján, whom we had met up with while in Reykjavik, later told us the crosses represented the people who had died in Icelandic highways and was meant to serve as a warning to be careful and pay attention while you were driving. A sobering memory now that I look back. There were still plenty of stunning vistas along our route to the final destination even though we missed the turn south.
Eventually drove through the City of Kópavogur on our way to our final destination before departing. The city sits just south of Rekjavik in the same region and is modern and clean. While Reykjavik by the inner Harbour seems like the destination you'd want to go to to have a good time, Kópavogur is a reminder that real people live here and live and work in real communities.
Since we had missed our turn a while back our new route actually took us past the airport. and then south again. It was a location I had read about and it clearly seemed like it could be the only destination in the world like it. I know of no other. The Bridge Between Two Continents sits just south of the airport in the middle of a lava field that looks like it cooled a month ago. The barrenness and the rocky formations along with steam vents rising up nearly everywhere we looked really drove home that we were visiting a land that is sometimes dangerous, sometimes volatile but always beautiful.
When we finally arrived at the bridge we were the only ones there (although at some point a couple others showed up). Each end of the small bridge sits upon two tectonic plates with a small black sand volcanic rift in-between. One side is North America, while the other side is Eurasia. Where else on the planet can you see this? The experience, while not as dramatic as Black Sand Beach, Þingvellir or Geysir or even Rekjavik or Krauma, was still every bit as unique. It was actually probably the most unique place I've ever been too. There are other Black Sand Beaches and other geysers. Þingvellir even has the plates there as well except spread apart by miles instead of feet. There are also plenty of cool cities and natural hot springs... but this place? There is only one location like this that I know of - at least one so striking where two of the world's most active geologic plates are nearly close enough to touch with each hand. This was a great way to cap off our trip. I wish I had not missed the turn to go south and then head up to the Bridge that spans Two Continents but hey, no trip can be perfect. Even the master rug makers in India put an intentional flaw into their masterpieces because nothing should be 100% perfect. What makes it perfect is that it reminds us that maybe there's something to come back to someday for yet more adventure in the "land of the ice and snow, from the midnight sun, where the hot springs flow".
Oh ya, we flew over Greenland on the way back. Huge bonus - Beautiful! (pics in media carousel)

~ Hammer of the Gods

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

NYC: History Matters

In the West Village you can find a street that gone through many ups and downs over the years – Bleecker Street. Parts of the Street also sit in NoHo and the Bowery.

History Matters

New York City

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

A Little Bit of Brooklyn

Headed back up to NYC for a short trip. The weather forecast for Mid- March promised to be only jacket weather. Angela’s son was coming along on this trip and we planned on hitting a Knicks game. We booked an AirBnb in Brooklyn in the Flatbush neighborhood in-between Prospect Park South and actual Prospect Park. It put us a block from the Parade Grounds as well and only a few blocks away from the Parkside subway station.For myself, since we usually stayed in the Upper East Side, I was excited about gaining a new perspective on the Big Apple.
Until this trip, all I knew of Flatbush came from a so-so low budget cult classic film from the 1970’s called the Lords of Flatbush. The movie was set in the 1950’s. The only reason I saved some memory in my head about such a movie is some trivia about Stallone and Richard Gere not getting along during the filming that resulted in Gere getting fired. Gere never appears in the finished film and to this day the actors dislike each other. Some useless knowledge I suppose but I thought it was an interesting piece of Hollywood history. Because of this odd bit of trivia and general knowledge from the film, I thought Flatbush must be a special place. Oozing history, it was originally settled during the Dutch era in 1651 under the name Midwoud (or Midwood). Today Flatbush is coming close to enjoying some of the renaissance and modernization that is going on throughout the borough of Brooklyn. Critics would call it gentrification. Although most of the growth is on the other side of Prospect Park, Flatbush is poised to make a big splash in the future. Large Victorian styled homes in Prospect Park South sat just a few blocks from where we stayed. The neighborhood is as diverse culturally as it is economically. Unfortunately, if gentrification gets its way, the area would likely lose some of the edge that makes it special and gives it it’s own personality.
Not far from where we were staying, albeit on the other side of Prospect Park, there’s Seventh Avenue and the neighborhood known as Park Slope. After unpacking, we headed there to find some authentic Brooklyn grub. The area is littered with restaurants and stores like the one we discovered called the Purity Diner. Having been established in 1929, the same year the stock market collapsed and the Great Depression began, it has a long history. The fact that it managed to survive starting up during the worst economic downturn in history and continues on all the way through to this day is in and of itself a major testament to the legacy of the diner. To me, that history is what makes it special. The diner is a survivor.
The food at Purity is standard diner food. Breakfast is served all day along with solid burgers matched with decent fries. Nothing fancy but still pretty good and more important, it feels authentic. The service, once they found out we had never been there and were from out of town, was impeccable. We actually went there twice during our trip and on our second visit we needed to surprise Angela, since it just happened to be her birthday. Some how the staff managed to find a candle and brought out some very chocolate cake on the down low when she wasn’t paying attention. The kindly insisted the desert on the house. If we lived in Brooklyn I’m pretty sure we’d make the diner a regular stop. It’s simple, affordable and the staff makes you feel welcome. At least, they did that night.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

The Garden
Back in Pittsburgh, we don’t have a professional Basketball team, only college ball. Hockey, takes up the schedule at our local Arena. So at times, when we’ve gone out of town, we’ve tried to see a few games when we’re able. I had never been to Madison Square Garden but I knew I needed to go. The current version of the Garden opened up in 1968. There were three other versions in two other locations that bared the same name dating back to 1879. This version is the oldest major sporting facility in the city. It’s also the oldest hockey arena in the National Hockey League. The Rangers won the Stanley Cup there in 1994 and the Knicks won the NBA Finals in 1970 and 1973. Basketball Hall of famers Patrick Ewing and Bill Bradley (also known as former Senator and Presidential contender Bill Bradley) played there as well as NHL Hall of Famer Mark Messier.
The building itself feels like a bygone era. The biggest bands in the world have played here. Built above Penn Station, with minimum interference to the train schedule, it’s one of the most expensive sporting venues ever built. Walking in for the first time you can sense the history. 40 years ago when it was built it had the largest steel cable suspension roof in America and maybe the world. There are even two entire steel framed floors built above the steel cable suspension roof. The entire building is still an engineering marvel to this day.
The Knicks lost the game that day but we still visited one of the most important arenas in the world so it felt like a win to us.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Garment District
The Knicks loss made us hungry so not far from the Garden we found the Tick Tock Diner nestled away at the bottom end of the Garment District. The food was adequate but the place was very bright and colorful. It had a good vibe. It was what we needed at the exact time.
While sitting in the diner I discovered the Bickford’s Building, or at least one of them, right across the street. Today it houses a pizza shop. Bickford’s luncheonettes were popular from about 1922 to the early 1950’s. They were a huge part of American Culture during that time period. Frequented often by the likes of Jack Kerouac, Allen Ginsberg and Woody Allen. The mood set in these often all night eateries found its way into many literary works by some of the greatest minds of the beatnik generation. Fortunately the buildings façade was exposed at the Bickford’s on 8^thand 34^thin 2000 or else I never would have noticed or therefore researched the history.
From the Tick Tock we went to check out B & H Photo. It’s like the Supermarket of photography stores. Founded in 1973, it’s incredibly massive. Whatever you need in photography, they’ll have it. We were able to find a decent used lens for Angela’s camera.
Just outside of B & H we were able to get an amazing shot of one of the newer NYC skyscrapers, Hudson Yards. Not only is it the 4^thtallest building in NYC but it also has the highest outdoor observation deck in the western hemisphere at 1100 feet. Amazingly, it cantilevers straight out from the building. You’ll find that “thrill ride” on the 101^stfloor.

New York’s Garment District is named so because of its relationship with the world’s fashion industry. Home to well-known designers and major labels there’s maybe nowhere else it’s equal besides Paris, Milan or Hong Kong. While most of the manufacturing has now gone overseas so that American designers can stay competitive, NYC has created zoning districts so that the remaining manufacturing can enjoy more affordable rents. 9 Billion in fashion sales annually make New York the king of fashion in the United States. A role the city won’t be giving up anytime soon, nor should it. It’s done its job very well.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Down on Bleecker Street
In the West Village you can find a street that gone through many ups and downs over the years – Bleecker Street. Parts of the Street also sit in NoHo and the Bowery. Once home to such notables like John Belushi, Robert De Niro and Alicia Keys it’s managing to make a comeback. At one time it was one of the hippest 5 block streets in New York. Clubs like the CBGB (closed in 2006) and Café Wha?, where folks like Hendrix, Dylan and Springsteen started their careers once dotted the landscape. Lenny Bruce was famously arrested at Café Wha? in 1964 on obscenity charges. When Marvels Dr. Strange comics began in the mid 60’s, he lived at 177A Bleecker Street. Simon and Garfunkel wrote a song called Bleecker Street. So then something happened. It became too hip. Everyone wanted a piece of Bleecker Street. Higher end stores like Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors moved in. Over commercialization helped it lose its coolness. What made it special… was gone.
Up until 2018 the street was dotted with vacant buildings still looking for that high-end rent but no one was biting. Many owners decided to sell to recoup losses, which let new developers move in who could re-think the historic street. The changes seem to have worked out in the neighborhoods favor. A company called Brookfield Properties came in and bought up a bunch of properties. So far they’ve seemed to be able to slowly bring back that eclectic vibe it once had. It has yet to make it all the way back to the coolness, edginess of the 60’s and 70’s but it appears to hopefully be on the right track.
Bleecker Street has suffered through darker times in the past as well. Open prostitution and drug addiction chased a lot of potential customers away. So, sometimes it’s a fine line between edginess and darkness. Simon and Garfunkles song by the same name seems to capture that paradox better than I could. Written in a different era that I was too young to participate in.
Fog's rollin' in off the East River bank
Like a shroud it covers Bleecker Street
Fills the alleys where men sleep
Lies the shepherd from the sheep
Voices leaking from a sad cafe
Smiling faces try to understand
I saw a shadow touch a shadow's hand
On Bleecker Street
A poet reads his crooked rhyme
Holy, holy is his sacrament
Thirty dollars pays your rent
On Bleecker Street
I heard a church bell softly chime
In a melody sustainin'
It's a long road to Cainan
On Bleecker Street
~ Paul Simon
Today Café Wha? still provides solid music entertainment. Retail has rediscovered the street and now has a more chic feel. At some point I’ll hopefully make my way back to the West Village. I’m anxious to check in on Bleecker Street in the near future to see if its ongoing metamorphosis can bring back the soul of a neighborhood.

Canada: Toronto the Queen City

I had made reservations at the tallest manmade structure in North America…

Canada: Toronto

The Queen City

2 Lives Take a Different Direction - North

Only a 5-hour drive north from Pittsburgh, it’s easy to forget that we’d be crossing a border and traveling in another country. In many ways you’d expect more similarities than differences. What’s similar is apparent, some of the differences however, might be unexpected.
Angie and I were only planning a three-day affair in Toronto. It was Memorial Day weekend, which worked with our time off from work. To us, that meant larger crowds in the US but business as usual in Canada. So, we chose Canada. It would be our first international excursion together. Going into Canada through their customs was a breeze.

We had booked our AirBnb along Lake Ontario about 11 km west of the center of Old Toronto in an area called Etobicoke. The location would give us great views, access to the lake as well as the bike trail that ran along the lake. Our relationship was still in relatively new stages and everything we did was an adventure.
After checking in, we immediately ventured a few steps from our AirBnB to explore Humber Park. A beautiful park totaling 350 acres that sits directly on the lake and splits into two distinct eastern and western sections. There’s a great view there of a distant downtown Toronto we were lucky to check out.
After showering and changing for the night, we found the trolley a few blocks from our lodging and headed out towards Queen Street, just west of downtown. We decided on dinner at the Drake Hotel. The weather was perfect for sitting outside and people watching. The food and service were great. The company I was with was even greater.
After dinner we walked along Queen Street “west” which felt like the center of Toronto’s nighttime world. There we found fashion, cool eateries, plenty of visual arts, manicured parks and music for all tastes that echoed out from the clubs and danced off the buildings and alleyways. The people were friendly and the atmosphere felt more European than American. We easily spotted different cultures and heard numerous languages as we wandered along Queen Street. There are plenty of places to shop if you have the stamina and lots of deserts to experience if you can spare the calories. Eventually we called it a night and Ubered back to our AirBnb.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Subways to Hockey Heaven

The next day we ventured into the heart of Downtown Toronto via the subway. Exceptional graffiti dotted the landscape along our journey. Downtown, even on a Saturday was bustling with activity. We were struck immediately with how clean Toronto was. We would be hard pressed to find much litter. Nonetheless, even in such a pristine city, homelessness reared its ugly head. Just a reminder that the problem is universal to a degree and that mental health and poverty doesn’t go away with tighter border restrictions or higher walls.
My personal goal that day (no pun intended) was to visit the Hockey Hall of Fame, which resides in the interesting Brookfield Place and part of the former Bank of Montreal. It houses a huge array of memorabilia and is home to the Stanley cup when it’s not being lugged around by Stanley Cup winners during the off-season. My hometown has become one of the greatest hockey towns in the world with the Penguins winning multiple Stanley cups. The talent that has gone through Pittsburgh with Lemieux, Jagr, Crosby and Malkin has been among the best talent ever produced. Pittsburgh has been very lucky and I’ve been fortunate to be able to have a pair of season tickets to the Penguins for the last several years. I was more than grateful to have a chance to visit the Mecca of Hockey. I also knew Angie, who was not a huge hockey fan, was perfect for me in tolerating my wish to visit probably the last place on her list.
Leaving the Hall of Fame, we walked around the mall area, which architecturally is a really interesting place to visit. It also serves the practical purpose of protecting the people of Toronto from the elements in the harsh winters while giving them a large space that feels like you’re outdoors where you can still shop and eat. One section of the mall, the Allen Lambert Galleria, is a large atrium designed by the Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava. It’s more than impressive. It appears like it was built over buildings while encompassing large city blocks although I believe the building facades are an integral part of the Galleria. The steel arches above mesmerize as they intertwine amongst themselves. The Galleria is recognized worldwide and has been in numerous movies and TV shows.
For dinner we ventured somewhat to the outskirts of Toronto to an area called Greektown. It had become somewhat of an up and coming area over the years. We were fortunate to meet up with some friends there at a restaurant called 7Numbers. With tables right out on the sidewalk, the place was right up our alley. We enjoyed great conversation with our friends and our heads eventually hit the pillows hard after a long day.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

The Martin Goodman Trail is a 56 km waterfront trail first opened in 1984. It was named for the Editor of the Toronto Star who died in 1981.

2 Wheels are Better than 4

The next day we got up, grabbed the bikes we had brought with us and headed once again to Humber Park to link up with the bike trail. This section of the trail called the Martin Goodman Trail (west) would take us all the way into downtown Toronto. From there we could then take our bikes on a short ferry ride to explore Toronto Island. The trail is part of an ambitious project to have a bike trail run all the way along the entirety of the Great Lakes along the Canadian side. The trail, an incredible ecological and construction achievement, stretches over 3,000 kilometers. For comparison, that would be like building a bike trail along the entire East Coast of the United States from Maine to the Florida Keys.
The 11-kilometer portion of the trail we rode had thousands of people walking, biking and just hanging out. Musicians played at various spots along the way and numerous vendors selling food and other items could be found in designated areas. It was a relatively easy bike ride along a fairly flat and paved bike trail. Nonetheless it was a decent workout with beautiful views that took you right into the heart of Downtown to the waterfront area.
There we found water taxis that could transport us to the Toronto Islands. A place that looked interesting to explore. The water taxis arrived at several locations on the island. The idea for us was to arrive on the eastern side of the island and ride our bikes the distance of the island so we could depart from the western side. It was an easy ride. To our surprise we discovered a small amusement park on the island we could ride our bikes through. The Amusement Park seemed to cater mostly to families with very young children. It was fairly packed. Angela and I decided to take a short break there to find coffee and get a light lunch. We choose a vantage point where we could people watch and yet not be in the thick of it. Again, the weather was perfect.
Before departing the island, we had considered visiting a rumored nude beach on the island. It seemed like an odd place to have one considering the family atmosphere at the park. We decided instead that we didn’t have enough time if we were to accomplish some of the other things we wanted to explore. Besides, we were just kind of curious and weren’t really prepared to venture onto the beach in our birthday suits quite yet. Taking the water taxi back to the waterfront in Toronto we then biked the 11 kilometers back to our AirBnb to get a shower. We had figured we had biked close to 18-19 miles that day including Toronto Island. It was a perfect afternoon. We’d love to bike this trail again.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Elevators to Literal Heaven

I had planned a special dinner that night. I made reservations for CN Tower. The tallest man-made structure in North America. It housed a restaurant at the top in the saucer like enclosure that rotates around the spire. You have to buy tickets to ride the elevators to the top unless you have reservations at the very expensive restaurant. Even then, you still have to stand in line for the elevator.

The restaurant was ‘ok’. Of course, we weren’t trying to spend our life savings so we both got very modest meals that basically insured we’d be hungry again in a few hours, but the views? The views were spectacular. As the structure rotated around at a stunning 40 miles an hour you found yourself and most of your dinner pressed tightly up against the glass windows from the power of the centrifugal force. Just kidding, it crawled along at a turtle’s pace. Inching along it enabled us to really take in the skyline. From high up on our perch we had an excellent viewpoint of the bike trip we had taken earlier that day. You could generally pick out the location of our AirBnb and even make out the American side of Lake Ontario. What was striking was all the rooftop greenery on numerous high-rise buildings. It was a dramatic panoramic experience that showcased Toronto’s commitment to providing green work and living experiences for its citizens. An experience we don’t regret paying a little extra for. Just plan on a more affordable dinner elsewhere if you don’t feel like dropping a couple hundred to make sure you stay full the rest of the evening. The desert was worth every penny though.

Graffiti Alley for a Queen

After CN Tower we headed back to our AirBnB to clean up and drop off our vehicle, which we had only decided to use to make sure we made it to our reservation on time. We didn’t want to be encumbered with it when we headed back to our old stomping grounds of Queen Street. We wanted to see an area we missed on our first go around called Graffiti Alley. We also hoped to do some shopping and knew we’d want to eat again at some point. We had no problem getting the Uber to Graffiti Alley, but what wound up being cool is when our driver found out we were in Toronto for our first time, he decided to shut off the meter and give us a general tour. Honestly, its humanity like that that makes traveling special.

Graffiti Alley didn’t disappoint. It makes you understand that much more how committed to art Toronto really is. The varying artists that have given some of their best street art, is incredible. Finding this little gem nestled along an alleyway makes Queen Street all the more incredible. It really feels like the center of Toronto. You can virtually eat any kind of food there you want and visit hundreds of different stores. Sure, the alley way is right off Queen Street and Angela was my Queen that night in Toronto.

The next day we headed home. Angie had to work a nursing shift at 7 pm that night. We didn’t have much time to do much else. We managed to stop for lunch just outside of a quaint little town we had driven past on the way to Toronto called Niagara-on-the-Lake. It’s a small touristy town that’s extremely low key when compared to the Niagara Falls Area. That stop for lunch almost doomed us though in getting Angela back on time because we were not prepared with the amount of time it would take to get back into the States. The lines going back through American Customs were extensive, so keep that in mind if you’re in a hurry to get back home.

Toronto is truly a world-class city right up there with some of the worlds best. It’s just a shame that I’ve been so close to it for years and never took the time to experience it.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Puerto Rico: Rincón

Much of Puerto Rico was still without power and water 10 Months post Maria. You can’t prepare for the amount of damage still apparent.

Puerto Rico: Rincón

Surf and Aliens

There might be Aliens

Driving from San Juan in a rental car to Rincón on the other side of the island felt surreal. After all it was only a mere ten and a half months after hurricane Maria, the worst natural disaster in the islands history. At the same time I had nothing to compare the scenery to. Locals had told me that much of the island was still without power and even water, but I wasn’t prepared for the amount of damage still spread out throughout the countryside. Our voyage kept us on the expressway (route 22 west) along the northern coast of Puerto Rico until it changed to Route 2. Route 2 is more like a business highway. As we drove past communities and businesses it was evident many businesses had bounced back and communities were rebuilding but even almost a year later, the storm damage was still apparent. I could only imagine how bad the devastation must have been immediately after the storm.

I only wanted to make one stop along the way before we made it to Rincón and its famous beaches. As a kid I was fascinated by science and that fascination has never really left me. Some of my best memories were the books I read as a child and young adult. Many had involved fantasy and science fiction. I remember reading Chariots of the Gods when I was maybe ten or eleven years old. It had blown me away. So many light bulbs went off in my head when I read it and although many of my ideas were probably completely incorrect it still felt important to open my mind and consider so many possibilities. For me religion never really made sense but science usually always does. I was that kid in Sunday school that asked all the hard questions that always got the pensive smile and short faith based answer. Even though it was easy to detect the teacher’s impatience with me it never stopped me from asking the questions. My mind was like a sponge back then. These days it sometimes feels more like a brick than a sponge. I think that’s why it’s important for me to write. It adds a little water back into the sponge.

Shortly after we landed on Route 2 we came to our first major town called Arecibo. From there we turned off. I had brought my electronic GPS device with us fearing that some cell towers may still not be operational and our phones mapping system might not work everywhere. I had made sure to download the appropriate maps for Puerto Rico before we left. Our side adventure would take us up into the mountains.

The thirty-minute drive, after we turned off Route 2, took us past some small towns that clearly hadn’t recovered from the hurricane. Homes with no roofs dotted the landscape and downed powerline poles were still visible along the way. I couldn’t imagine being without power for over ten months. It’s worth noting that with everything going on, we still never met one person who wasn’t friendly or helpful during our entire trip.

As we came to the end of our journey the now winding road sharply climbed up in elevation. Once we reached the end of the road, a colorful sign read “Bienvenidos” “Welcome to the William E. Gordon Telescope” and visitors center. After all these years on the planet, I had finally made it to the Observatorio de Arecibo (The Aricibo Observatory). Not only was it the climatic scene of the 1995 James Bond Film “GoldenEye” but it was also written about in so many books and articles over the years. It’s truly one of the most significant scientific accomplishments in mankind’s history. Construction began on the giant radio telescope in 1960 and completed in 1963. It was the largest radio telescope in the world at just over 1000 ft across for over 60 years until China built one in 2016 that’s 1600 ft across. Since 1999 it’s helped scan the universe for SETI (Search for Extra Terrestrial Intelligence) in hopes of finding transmissions from intelligent civilizations. At the observatory you’ll find a visitor center that has refreshments and an informative walk through science center that explains some of the important discoveries the observatory has been responsible for. There is also an auditorium that provides a short documentary on the Observatory. Once that’s over they will escort you out to the actual radio telescope where guides provide additional information and answer questions. The scope and the size of the telescope is something to really take in.

I was happy to knock another bucket list item off my list. As for my entourage, they probably just wanted to get to the beach before the sun went down. It’s entirely possible that the science geek in me isn’t for everyone.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

The Tree House

From the observatory we still had about an hour and a half until we reached our final destination. It was easier to head back to route two and follow that toward our AirBnb than take a chance on driving directly west across the mountainous terrain. The mountain crossing would have been a shorter distance but slightly longer time wise. With the storm damage still evident in those areas there were just too many unknowns to risk going off the beaten path. Route 2 still took us along some interesting scenery and through several towns. The drive helped to give us a better feel for the island and the people.

By the time we got to our AirBnb we had had enough of being in the car all day. The directions our AirBnB host sent us were decent and we found it without too much trouble. When we pulled up, large (and small) lizards scurried as if we were interrupting something important. If the home we were staying at suffered any damage from the storm they must have repaired everything before we arrived because no damage stood out that was obvious. The home was a rustic styled tree house built up on stilts. It sat back off the ocean and high up on the hill. Because of its stilt design and expansive deck it offered incredible Caribbean views. The deck was perfect for breakfast. The sounds of the birds every morning while drinking coffee and the clean smell of the air made everyone feel rejuvenated. The ocean was somewhat of a short walk from our tree house but we chose to drive down the first day instead. We wanted to get some food and spend some time on the beach before the sunset. For us, this part of the trip was intended to be all about relaxation. The cost of the AirBnb was $155.00 a night but with cleaning and fees it took it up around $225.00. It wasn’t cheap compared to many other AirBnB’s we’ve stayed at but considering we had our own mountain retreat only about a ¼ mile walk from the Caribbean Sea, it was priceless.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Sandy Beach and Rincón

We weren’t staying directly in the town of Rincón but instead were just outside of it and north. We’d need to drive to reach the actual town because it wasn’t in walking distance. The beach by where we were staying was called Sandy Beach. The beach was beautiful and incredibly clean. After Maria the Rincón community had struggled. The damage had been extensive and it was simply hard to just find clean water let alone have access to electricity. The community really had pulled together. The affects of Maria were not overtly apparent by the time we had arrived there.

Just off Sandy Beach Angela, her son and I had settled on dinner at a place called Tamboo. The food there was good but nothing fancy. We weren’t really looking for fancy though; we were looking for the view. Tamboo boasts a deck overlooking the Caribbean. We were not going to beat that view and atmosphere. The restaurant wasn’t very busy since tourists were still not really coming back to Puerto Rico yet. The staff was friendly. The bar sat right out on the deck and although we weren’t drinking it would obviously be a great location to hang out for a night by the beach. After the sun finally set we went out in search of some breakfast items. The store shelves appeared to still be struggling in this area. Not enough goods were making it to the stores that needed them. The choices were slim. We kept our wish list simple and mostly down to breakfast items, snacks, water and other drinks. We managed to put enough together.

We eventually got to explore the actual small beach town of Rincón. Again, there wasn’t much damage directly in town that was apparent. The FEMA office was open there but quickly shooed us away when they seen I was attempting to photograph the office. In the town most of the stores were open but the tourists just were just not visiting yet. Angela and I found an unexpected Irish Pub Restaurant there called Finn and Ollie’s Pickle Barrel. The food was quite good but again nothing fancy. Our waiter was from the states and said he really loved it there in Rincón. He was looking forward to things getting fully back to normal. Money was tight with fewer tourists.

After dinner we stretched our legs around the town stopping at one point to grab some great ice cream that we could walk around with. Where the two main roads come together we found an outdoor bar that the locals seemed to be hanging out. It was apparently karaoke night. We hung out long enough to listen to some good singers and laugh at the bad ones. Watching the locals have so much fun when not long ago they were struggling to just find clean water was enough to anyone some gratitude and hope. Clearly the people of Puerto Rico are fighters that take a lot of pride in their communities.

Overall, a known surfers paradise with its clear blue waters and sandy beaches, Rincón is high up on my list of places to visit. Our lodging, the people and the service we received there was first rate. If you feel like just relaxing and being lazy for a week or two or 5 years… Rincón would be a great place to do just that.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

NYC: The Battery

The Battery is famous for its history. Because of its strategic location, the Dutch built Fort Amsterdam on the site in 1625-26,

New York City

The Battery

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

The Battery

Diving up to New York City is about a 7½-hour drive from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania when you consider the need to stop a few times along the way. It’s not a terrible drive but by the time you get to your destination you’re definitely happy not be driving anymore. The trick is to not hit too much traffic going into New York City. If you time it wrong, and that happens, your 7½-hour drive could be extended to 9.
As usual, we were staying in the Upper East End. We arrived just after the sun went down and had just enough energy left in us to head out for a simple dinner somewhere. We accidently found a Mexican restaurant called Maz Mezcal on E. 86th Street. Either we were starving or the food was pretty good. The service was attentive and quick. Because the weather was uncannily warm for early November, we were able to sit outside in the evening and enjoy our meal, which we usually prefer.
Our plan the next day when we got up was to explore the Battery Park area (known as “The Battery”) at the southern tip of Manhattan. For the first time in our relationship we’d be going to an area of Manhattan Angela knew very little about. She’d actually never been to Battery Park. It was cool to check out a place to explore that was new to us both.
From where we were staying in the Upper East Side we walked to 86^thand Lexington to take the #4 Subway to Bowling Green which was the last stop in Manhattan before the train heads under the east River and over and into Brooklyn. I feel like the trip took about 30 minutes not during rush hour on a weekend. I’d expect it to take longer when it’s busier.
Once we got off at Bowling Green it was maybe only a 10-15 minute walk to The Battery. It was really a perfect day for a walk in another one of Manhattans iconic parks. At 24-acres, The Battery is a decent size by any standard unless you compare it to Central Park which is thirty five times larger. What makes The Battery special though and feel much larger is the New York Harbor it borders which feels like an extension of the park.
The Battery is famous for its history. Because of its strategic location, the Dutch built Fort Amsterdam on the site in 1625-26, later name Fort George by the British. The British, after taking over, installed an artillery battery in 1663. Another military installation, now known as Castle Clinton, was built prior to the war of 1812 between 1808 and 1811 just west of where Fort Amsterdam had stood. Castle Clinton, named after a mayor, has worn many hats over the years having been converted early on as a theater and later on as an immigration and customs center (prior to Ellis Island). At one point it even became an aquarium. Today Castle Clinton, now a National Monument, is considered one of the parks main attractions.
Restaurants within the park include a huge venue named Pier A Harbor House and a smaller more upscale Italian restaurant called Gigino at Wagner Park. Gigino, with its outdoor seating and vibe, was our choice to grab some dinner. A sprawled out field in front of the restaurant where locals, tourists and families hung out gave us ample opportunity to people watch. We also had beautiful views of New York Harbor, Ellis Island, The Statue of Liberty as well as both Governors and Staten Islands. From the restaurant, even as the sun was starting to set, one could still see ferries departing to those very destinations.
After dinner we got to take a walk around some of the rest of the park. The well-manicured lawn and overall park atmosphere make clear why so many flock to this park on a daily basis.
Just north of the park World Trade Center One dominates the skyline. Wall street and the financial district are also just a short walk from The Battery so after we managed to find some coffee across from the park at a local Starbucks, we decided to take the 15-20 minute walk up to see the 9/11 Memorial. Because it was November it was starting to get dark early but the temperature was still warm enough for just a light jacket.
The Memorial obviously was a somber experience. For me, besides being a reminder of all the lives lost, philosophically it will also be a memento of what life was like before 9/11 and how much life changed after 9/11. The deep holes left in the ground are but an admonishment of what cultural intolerance, bigotry and hate can materialize into.
The entire 9/11 episode in human history will forever remain one of its worst. Even today many still struggle from PTSD and other health ailments from the cloud of debris nearly two decades later. To a degree, much of the world also still lives in that day. The decisions the US and its allies made soon after the attack influence a lot of decisions made today by governments and corporations the world over. The US choice to go to war with Iraq, the Taliban and Al Qaeda lead to power vacuums, which helped create new extremists and terror groups. Everyday people living in countries like Syria and Northern Iraq with no connection to terrorism or Islamic militant groups have been forced to flee their homelands now decimated by war. The resulting refugee crisis, now flooding through much of Europe, creates cultural clashes and only reinforces bigotry and hate that prior was maybe held back through more rational thinking. New prejudices are being born on both sides where maybe none or very little existed before. Some believe the current refugee situation may ultimately permanently change Europe and its landscape forever. That fear drives governmental policy and elections. Some of those policies and elections create divides and even more hate. Most believe the circular issues each side face are powder kegs sitting in open wounds waiting for just the right spark to ignite.
To me these issues are part of why I write. I believe the world needs to figure out how to get back to center. How we understand each other culturally only improves and enriches people. It doesn’t take away from who we are by learning about one another. Innately we all want the same things, to love and be loved. We all want to be able to protect and provide for our families. We all want peace.
Our last stop for the day before headed back up to the Upper East Side would be The Oculus at the New World Trade Center. Architecturally, (designed by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava) its one of the more incredible places you’ll maybe ever see. It’s basically the major subway station hub that was replaced after 9/11. We were already fortunate enough to see one of Calatrava’s other creations in Toronto called the Allen Lambert Galleria. In a way you can see the influence of his work on the other when you visit each location. Feel free to check out some pictures of the Galleria in my Toronto blog.
Feeling hungry we got off in Mid Town and walked towards Sutton Place To find an open diner to get a late meal. Angela had found some books along the way that she decided to start before we made it back to where we were staying. You can’t really skip out on a greasy spoon and authentic New York City hamburger and fries when you visit. If you do, then shame on you.
New York City and Manhattan isn’t just a place. It’s a collection of places and neighborhoods. The Battery and the Financial District have a completely different vibe than the Village, Central Park, the Upper East End or even Mid Town. Each one should be experienced separately and with a clean palate.
Eventually this particular short trip would come to an end the same way as we had arrived… with a magnificent sunset.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Puerto Rico: Old San Juan

9 months after Hurricane Maria we found ourselves rolling along the narrow cobblestone streets of Viejo (Old) San Juan.

Puerto Rico: Old San Juan

Nine Months After the Storm

After Maria

We caught an early flight out on Delta. I didn’t get much sleep the night before. The second leg of our trip was out of Atlanta and luckily it was one of the rare times I was able to get decent sleep on a plane. Angie, of course, made sure to take unflattering pictures of me on the plane. Once we landed in San Juan, I reserved a car rental for later on in our trip. Our plan was to stay in Old San Juan for the early part of our journey. For that location we wouldn’t need a vehicle and it honestly would hinder us there since the available parking in Old San Juan wasn’t very abundant. After confirming the rental, we hired a taxi to take us to the AirBnb we had booked.

In mid September of 2017, Hurricane Maria made a direct hit on Puerto Rico. It was regarded as the worst natural disaster in Puerto Rican history. Less than a year earlier, the journey back for the U.S. territory, its citizens and the infrastructure overall was proving to be a difficult one. Evidence of damage was still apparent on our short drive from Luis Muñoz Marin International Airport to our destination. Obvious storm damage like tarped off roofs were easy to spot in neighborhoods along the way. Even so, our female taxi driver smiled and carried on pleasant conversation in a thick Spanish accent the entire way to our AirBnb. She proudly explained how San Juan had been recovering a lot faster than other areas of the island that were also hit hard. Not only was it the capital and largest city, but the tourist industry was extremely important to Puerto Rico’s recovery as well. We were told many areas of the island, especially the interior parts, still lacked power or even clean water.

As we got closer to our destination we noticed distinct changes in the architecture. Hotels and governmental buildings jumped up along the way. The pleasant drive gave gratuitous views of the blue waters of the Caribbean but we really didn’t need our eyes to know it was there. One could clearly smell the salty ocean and almost taste it in the air. We got lucky with the weather. It was sunny and mid-80s and promised to be that way during our stay. The little sleep I had got was enough to make me ready for the day.sewer

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Conquistadors

Rolling onto the narrow cobblestone streets of Viejo (Old) San Juan. The first thing we were struck by was the old world style architecture. The famous conquistador Ponce de León founded the settlement in 1508. The exact same Ponce de León who led explorations into Florida in search of the Fountain of Youth. Casa Blanca, now a museum, was once the fortification and residence of the famous explorer. Constructed in 1521, it is now almost 500 years old. De León’s descendants actually lived in Casa Blanca all the way up until the mid 1800’s. Ponce’s body even lies in rest in one of the local ancient churches.

Not only is the architecture significant in Old San Juan but you soon realize upon arrival that there’s some interesting old world style military fortifications surrounding most of the city. La Fortaleza was built a decade after Casa Blanca and has been the continuous residence of the various Governors of Puerto Rico. That makes it the oldest executive mansion in the New World. Construction on the surrounding battlement of Castillo San Felipe del Morro started several years after La Fortaleza was completed. By 1641 the entirety of the old city had a wall around it. Additional important fortifications were built after 1641 like the fort of San Christobal. Because of the quality of these fortifications Spain was able to control the island up until the Treaty of Paris ended the Spanish-American war in 1898. It was then that Spain agreed to cede ownership of Puerto Rico, Cuba, Guam and the Philippines to the United States. The historic fortifications of Old San Juan have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site and I will be writing more on the historic significance of this site as well as adding some additional pictures to the UNESCO Word Heritage section of this website.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Location, Location, Location

Our AirBnb was located in the northwestern section of the city and still it would only take about 15-20 minutes’ tops to walk to the complete opposite side of the walled city where La Fortaleza sits. There’s no way you need a car to get around and you’d have to be extremely lazy (or very drunk) to need a taxi. For a 2-bedroom apartment I paid a whopping 160 bucks a night… but it was worth it. It was one of the more expensive AirBnb’s we’ve rented. We could have got a cheaper AirBnB or hotel if it had just been Angela and I but we had also brought her son and one of his friends on this trip and so we needed some additional space. Angela and I would take a cool AirBnb over a cookie cutter Hotel any day. For me, I feel it gives us attachment to wherever we’ve visited and makes us feel more a part of the culture. The AirBnb we picked was clean, unique and gave us outstanding views of the Caribbean. Right across the street was Abraham Lincoln Elementary School. A courtyard with a basketball court outside had children playing basketball during recess. It was easy to forget that less than a mere eleven months earlier a storm the magnitude of Maria turned the Island into an apocalyptic nightmare. The children’s laughter proved the island would bounce back. The parents that came during recess to check on them proved no one would ever forget.

“God must be a painter. Why else would we have so many colors?”
(A Beautiful Mind - 2001)

The streets of Viejo San Juan are filled with unique colorful architecture. Fortaleza Street being one of the more whimsical with beautiful colored umbrellas hanging like a canopy above a well-maintained brick street. The city is clean and the streets feel safe. Cruise ships line up every day in the busiest cruise port in the Caribbean and the streets become flooded with tourists. Many of the tourist shops carry similar items but every once in a while you come across a store carrying more unique original items. The restaurants offer a large array of cuisine choices. A restaurant called Barrachina (Huarrachina) offered up a fantastic fish dinner that I had decided to take advantage of. One late morning we also discovered a great little restaurant called Mercado La Carreta where everyone enjoyed a hearty brunch.

When we visited Puerto Rico, many Americans were still weary about visiting because they feared Hurricane Maria had either damaged too much and it wouldn’t be enjoyable and/or that Puerto Rican citizens had maybe become so desperate that personal safety might be an issue. Nothing could have been further from the truth. We found a beautiful city and proud, courteous, hard working citizens wherever we went. Less tourists for Puerto Ricans was obviously bad but for us, it selfishly meant a better experience in a city that normally had five times or more people cramming the streets. We never felt pressure to spend money but we always felt gratitude from the restaurants and stores when we did.

Some may not realize it but Old San Juan isn’t the only town on the peninsula of the walled fortress. Just over the wall, east of El Morro and the famed Magdalena de Pazzis Cemetery, is the shantytown of La Perla. Settled in the late 1900’s, La Perla has a little bit more of an edgy reputation. In the past it was recommended tourists not travel there for safety reasons but in recent years it’s cleaned up that reputation and has become generally safe. The colors there are fantastic! Famous music videos and even movies have been made there and hip restaurants are popping up all the time. La Perla sits outside the walled fortress and during Maria suffered significant damage since it not only didn’t have the added protection of the fortress walls but it also sits so close to the Atlantic. The architecture there is clearly different largely because the law during the 19^thcentury obligated the slaughterhouse, former slaves as well as homeless non-whites to build their homes outside the walled city. Those that decided to make a home there were quite a bit poorer than those that lived behind the walled city and although the structures today have been much improved upon, it still maintains its own distinct identity from Old San Juan which sits only a stairwell or two up and over the ancient battlements away.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Secret Beach

One of the little known secrets is where the locals go if they want to walk to the beach. Just outside of the official boundary of Viejo San Juan and a short walk from where our AirBnb was situated is the Capital building. Across from the Capital is the beautiful Plaza of San Juan Bautista (John the Baptist) with amazing views of the Atlantic. You won’t find a sign leading the way but there’s a set of steps that will take you to a small beach the locals call Playa de Bajamar. Although there seemed to be some debris from the hurricane still in places along the beach our walk in the sand and water was still perfect.

Another reason to visit are the surprising ruins one finds of an old fort that might be called Fort BajaMar. Sea glass, which makes perfect souvenirs, is plentiful along the way. Because the beach is out of the way and not patrolled there seem to be locations where some homeless have set up shop. No one bothered us while we were there but it’s always good to stay aware of your surroundings. Strong currents are also known to be in the area and with no lifeguards; swimming would be at your own risk. There are other more family orientated beaches further away but we seem to like off the beaten path type of adventures instead of doing what everyone else does, so it was perfect for us.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Old World Style Withdrawal

We only spent three days in the city exploring. We could have spent a few more so I suppose we’ll need to go back. It’s still one of my favorite places I’ve been. It has the culture of an exotic location while simultaneously being within the boundaries of the United States so its less complicated with no need for money exchange, complicated car rentals, etc… Also, the airfare for us from Pittsburgh generally floats around $300.00 RT, give or take. It’s one the cheaper locations we can get to in a reasonable amount of time.

Our decision to go to Puerto Rico was largely made because we strongly desired to support the Puerto Rican economy at that point in history instead of spending our money somewhere else. I don’t say that for a pat on the back. I just think it’s important to try and make decisions based on what’s the right thing to do instead of allowing fear to make those decisions. There are so many things in life I’d have missed out on if I had not tried to live with that philosophy. How do I know that? Because there are far too many things in life I missed out on. Experience, most of the time, is the best teacher.

Besides... I got to see the Puerto Rican version of the Roberto Clemente Statue. A small bucket list item for me knocked off a very long list.
a

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

NYC: A Day at the Met

Although there are many museums in NYC that you should visit, if you miss visiting the Met, that might be criminal.

New York City

The Met (August 2018)

New York City
The Met

You shouldn’t really visit New York City without visiting the Metropolitan Museum of Art on 5^thAve at about the mid-point of Central park. It’s an amazing institution that dates back to 1870 when it was founded. Being the largest museum in the United States it's also the 4^thmost visited in the world. The museum is divided into 17 departments. It sports a large permanent collection and also holds numerous special shows and exhibits. It's also a great online source for history buffs. Visit www.metmuseum.org to find lots of great things to explore.

When we were there the special exhibition was the Heavenly Bodies show, which mixed fashion and religion. It went on to become the most visited exhibition in the history of the Met with over 1.6 million people cramming through the doors to see the artistic, fashionable show.

Personally, I was very fond of the Egyptian and Southeastern Asian collections. I had also never seen a Picasso in person before. The Met has numerous Picasso’s on display in its extensive art collection as well as so many other famous artists that it feels like you could spend days just in the department where most of the paintings are on display.

Although there are many museums in NYC that you should also visit, you cannot miss visiting the Met if you want to say you went Museum hopping. That would be criminal.

Ancient Egypt

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Southeast Asia

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Heavenly Bodies

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Pablo Picasso

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Paul Cadmus - 7 Deadly Sins

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Other Artist Paintings

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Statues/ Sculpture

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Arms/ Armory

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

NYC: Buffy the Dog walker

Decades ago, artists created the scene in neighborhoods. Now the newly gentrified areas bring much higher rents many artists can’t afford

NEW YORK CITY

Buffy the Dog Walker (an argument against gentrification)

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Buffy the dog walker (an argument against gentrification)

So I don’t normally write like this. My writing is about travel. I’m not an expert in any location I travel to. If I were, then it would no longer really be a travel destination for me. It would become something else. Something I likely lost my wonder and curiosity for. After all, familiarity breeds contempt. What I am an expert in are bookings, research and problem solving (so I think). I can put together almost any trip no matter how complicated and I can do so reasonably without breaking the bank. That’s my talent. It’s also time consuming.
I’ve found myself in New York City several times. Angie actually has some roots there. While I haven’t lived in NYC, I’ve had the chance to do some decent exploration, albeit often through Angela’s eyes. NYC is a simple, complicated, cultural, antiquated, modern, alive and dead city. It’s where dreams are made and dreams are crushed. I’d be lying if I claimed I knew it intimately. Pittsburgh, where I come from, is a small country town by comparison. They call it the Big Apple because there’s supposed to be enough for everyone to take a bite from it but when you explore a little more deeply, it becomes apparent that the city bites back. Not everyone makes it out alive. Nowhere else I’ve visited compares. The city teeters in the light and the dark. It’s not just about the have and the have nots… that’s everywhere you go. It’s much deeper than that. The city is profoundly scarred from it’s past. While it’s made a lot of people stronger it’s also left quite a few behind. Maybe in my future travel I’ll find cultural and philosophical equivalents. Scars, after all, are not something I shy away from. In my own past, I’ve been through some dark times. I believe we can all make it through the darkest of times but I also had some help from people who I knew had my back. What happens when people stop helping and you lose everyone around you who ever believed in you? Not everyone is strong enough to make it through all that. Not everyone has large families. Some simply have no family left or they’ve long burned too many bridges for anyone else to risk putting out their hand in friendship and support. There’s a stark line between tough love - and fuck off.
9/11 produced a significant amount of PTSD. At the time of this writing (I post the date I visited at the top of a post) the COVID-19 epidemic has killed more people in NYC than anywhere else in the U.S. By the time it’s over, NYC may hold the distinction of more deaths than any country in the world. Odds are more than one person there just lost their only family member or their only real friend. To make it worse, the medical professionals are often the last person the sick see before they pass. That’s additional PTSD for those medical workers and families in a city already scarred… and yet New York City is still proudly America’s powerhouse.
New York is like the fighter you haven’t fought yet. Sure you’ve beaten everyone else but you haven’t beaten the champ. You know you’ll never be the best until you’ve beaten the best. It’s like scoring the big clients at work but the biggest still remains elusive. Sinatra sang, “If I make it there, I’ll make it anywhere”. New York holds that legendary distinction. It makes or breaks you.
Most of the pictures I’ve taken of the city are not as intimate a portrait of the city as I wish. I’ll try and change that in future trips. I can only share in words my understanding of my experiences in the city. I've never lived there but as I mentioned earlier, Angela lived there back in the 90’s when she attended NYU. That was long before Giuliani cleaned up much of the city. The 90’s were a just a much different time. You had your nice areas and your bad areas and if you lived in the nice areas you didn’t go into the bad areas. Now, so much of those questionable areas have been gentrified. The strip clubs, punk hangouts and seedy bars are now replaced with trendy shops, gyms and $8.00 a cup coffee shops. Needle parks now all cleaned up so nicely that you can confidently have family outings. Solid places you can safely bring your children. Now people talk about areas in New Jersey as the place you might not want to walk at night although maybe they always talked about Jersey to be fair. The Bronx, certain areas of Brooklyn and upper Manhattan still have rough reputations, but even those tough areas keep getting slowly modernized essentially pushing those that can't afford the new reality into a neighborhood they have no attachment to. There's a lot of money to be made in revitalization projects. Greed and compassion don't often share the same bed.
Decades ago, artists helped create the scene in many neighborhoods. They don't call artists starving for no reason. The newly gentrified areas bring much higher rents that many artists can't afford. There are not too many artists left in the communities they helped influence, at least not the grittier ones. Coffee shops don’t make an area trendy when every corner has one. Eclectic bookstores can actually help with the coolness factor but Amazon now delivers them right to your home or electronic device so those too are disappearing. The few remaining locations where you still find unique art are now found mostly in the newly pristine parks. Musicians will come on the weekends in the summer, small artist stands will set up where permitted to hock their goods but you'll still never bring back the infamous punk scene of the 80's and early 90's. Even if you could, punkers wouldn’t be able to afford living anywhere even close to St. Marks Place and the East Village today. It's ironic that many places that artists make trendy seem to eventually get swallowed up forcing the artists to move into more affordable locations while simultaneously the suckers who buy in at premium prices, move in expecting that same eclectic flair only to find out their new neighborhood lost its identity and is now just a carbon copy of the last gentrified formula neighborhood. Without neighborhood input and foresight, developers will follow where the money leads them. I've seen very few revitalization projects that do a good job maintaining a neighborhoods soul and identity. There are examples out there, if everyone is willing to compromise between money and compassion. Finding the right development companies and having sound planning with good neighborhood participation is vital for neighborhoods to maintain reasonable identity.

There will be ongoing debate and varying opinions if gentrification changes communities for the better or for the worse. The truth may be a little more complicated than that. It’s all about perspective. Pushing out entire communities so Buffy can walk her dog in a safe manner and her dog can shit on the few patches of grass left in an otherwise concrete city might be appealing to some, but what happens to everyone that got pushed out? The people who couldn’t rise up in a city that always beat them back. The only thing familiar to them was the neighborhood they grew up in. It was like another family member and while some people see the newly gentrified neighborhood as coming back to life, for many that grew up there, we just killed off a family member. It’s like someone put an Invasion of the Body Snatchers type of pod outside their community and by the time they finally woke up something clearly seemed off and felt wrong... but it was too damn late. Those smiles now seem too plastic. The pain and wisdom that once oozed from its pores is still there but seems more foreign and is much more camouflaged. It’s like the soul had been ripped out of the community and its now been replaced by Buffy the dog walker who doesn’t care if you step in her dogs shit because she doesn’t have time to clean it up. She still has to get to the new trendy gym that just opened up to show a rental unit to a new prospective client. A property that’s now 4-5 times the cost that it was just a few short years ago. I’d argue that the more diversified a community is, the stronger it is. It shouldn't always be about how much money you have or don't have.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Grand Canyon National Park

Flying into and landing at the bottom of the canyon may have been one of the more exhilarating experiences I’ve had.

Grand Canyon, USA

Landing a Helicopter Below the Rim

PHOTOS BY: Thomas Lonero

Grand Canyon Helicopter Tour

First Time for Everything

We headed about an hour outside of Vegas to a little airport that was close to Lake Meade. This would be my first time on a helicopter. I was obviously a little nervous. I had booked it with an old friend and of course I couldn't show him I was nervous so I made sure I was all smiles. Flying doesn't generally bother me... crashing bothers me. I had read on the internet that there were several accidents that had happened on these particular trips over the years.

This promised to be a unique trip. Anyone can fly over the Canyon, but this trip flies over and then below the rim of the Canyon. The National Park didn't allow flying below the rim because they said it was an unnecessary risk. I mean - who doesn't like a little unnecessary risk once in a while. I assured the guy I booked it with it was perfectly safe.

How it was meant to be seen

How the helicopter touring company gets around the no flying below the rim rule is they have an agreement with a local Indian tribe who controls the part of the Canyon we would be flying into. Seemed like a solid approach to ignore federal government guidelines and get over on the man. Plus, some of the money obviously goes to the tribe with the licensing agreement they have with the touring company and I for one like seeing the tribe get the extra money.
Upon meeting our Pilot we felt way more comfortable. She was a very experienced pilot and had significantly more flying time than the other pilot we just seen taken off. Good luck to that other crew. God rest their souls. Just kidding - they were fine. I think...

Our journey took us over Lake Meade, which was beautiful in and of itself. You get a real feel for how large the reservoir is. You also gain an greater understanding of the vastness of the desert. You don't see much in the way of greenery flying towards the Colorado River and the Canyon.
How the helicopter touring company gets around the no flying below the rim rule is they have an agreement with a local Indian tribe who controls the part of the Canyon we would be flying into. Seemed like a solid approach to ignore federal government guidelines and get over on the man. Plus, some of the money obviously goes to the tribe with the licensing agreement they have with the touring company.Upon meeting our Pilot we felt way more comfortable. She was a very experienced pilot and had significantly more flying time than the other pilot we just seen taken off. Good luck to that other crew. Go rest their souls. Just kidding - they were fine. I think...d

Exhilarating

Flying through and below the rim of the Canyon is not an experience you forget easily. The view is simply incredible. The Grand Canyon is not only a UNESCO world heritage site, its obviously one of the seven natural wonders of the world. It's awe inspiring. It took millions of years for this ancient river to cut through this landscape. The essence of time and how I was just a tiny blip over that course of time is both provoking and humbling.
The landing inside the Canyon went smoothly. We stayed about 45 min I think? Give or take. The tour company provided a simple lunch. We could see additional choppers (typed in my best Schwarzenegger impression) landing in the distance. They also provided a boat tour along the river which we opted out of. We came for the view and the coolness of landing inside the Grand Canyon in a chopper!
e

Grave Creek Mound: Moundsville, West Virginia

A BRIEF HISTORY AND PICTORIAL TOUR

Grave Creek Mound

Moundsville, West Virginia, U.S.A

PHOTOS BY: Thomas Lonero

A BREIF HISTORY

The largest conical mound in the United States is sixty-nine feet tall and with circular base of about 300 yards

It was built by the so-called Adena people and is estimated to be roughly 2,000 years old. The real name of the people that built mounds across much of the area below the great lakes is unknown. They were so-named after an Ohio Governor named Thomas Worthington discovered a mound in the early 19^th century on his Estate he had named “Adena”.

A view from the top

All we have are stories of what was found inside the mound. Rumors of extra large skeletal remains persist to this day. A stone with odd markings was apparently found during early unofficial excavations and although record of it seems to have been recorded at the Smithsonian where it was believed to have wound up, the current whereabouts of the stone is unknown. All we have remaining are drawings. The glyphs or “writing” on the stone have never been deciphered. Proof that Native Americans have a written language, during the time period the Adena culture persisted, has not yet been conclusively proven and is generally not accepted among academics.

Directional Obelisk Marker

A low wall and a directional stone compass built over the last hundred or so years can be found at the top of the mound. A short pathway encircles the mound, which leads to the top. It’s a great view of the surrounding area including the now retired West Virginia State Penitentiary, which offers tours year round and ghost tours near Halloween.

At the base of the Mound sits the Delf Norona Museum and the Grave Creek Archaeological Complex. They offer lectures throughout the year. Additional information can be found HERE.

The Stone Artifact

Niagara Falls

Views of the falls from 2008 and 2020. I’ve been fortunate enough to have visited the Niagara Fall on three different occasions.

New York – 1000 Island Region

Tucked away on the border of Canada between lake Ontario and the mighty St Lawrence is a region worth spending some time exploring

Chichén Itzá

One of the Seven Wonders of the World and a UNESCO World Heritage Site

McConkie Ranch Petroglyphs

The enduring mystery of the Fremont Culture

Iguazu/Iguaçu National Park

A 7th Wonder of Nature and a UNESCO World Heritage Site

From Argentina

From Brazil

EXTREMISM IN AMERICA

Why whats going on today is unlike anything in our lifetime

Black Lives Matter Protests, June 1st, 2020

Oklahoma City Bombing Memorial

Oklahoma City Bombing Memorial

9/11 World Trade Center Memorial

A VIBRANT CHAOS OF CALM

BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

Campana and Zárate

The six stages of eating blood sausage for the first time

Recoleta and Retiro

Isla de Pascua - Easter Island - Rapa Nui

A LEGENDARY LOCATION

Vaihu - Ahu Hanga Te’e

Rano Raraku Quarry

Ahu Tongariki

Anakena Beach - Ahu Nau Nau and Ahu Ature

Brazil

Foz do Iguaçu

Montevideo, Uruguay

An Unexpected Gem

November 2019 Tom L. Coming Soon!An unexpected gem

A learning experience at the Plaza de la Diversidad Sexual

A great evening with "Dos Guitarras" at the El Pony Pisador!

Layla

Hotel California

De Música Ligera

Knocking on Heavens Door

Counting Stars

November 2019 Tom L. Coming Soon!The Street Market

November 2019 Tom L. Coming Soon!Centro District

November 2019 Tom L. Coming Soon!Sunsets & Great Food

November 2019 Tom L. Coming Soon!Worker Strikes & the Miami Connection

Valparaíso, Chile

The Once and Mighty Port

Mexico: Valladolid, Yucatan

A stop along the way

A stop along the way Coming Soon!sewer

The Historic Iglesia de San Servacio Coming Soon!sewer

Cobá Mayan Ruins

(50 BCE -1550 CE)

Quintana Roo, Mexico

Grupo Coba

Grupo Chumuc Mul

Grupo Nohoch Mul

Mexico: Mérida, Yucatan

Winter is Coming

Uxmal Mayan Ruins

(500 AD -1200 AD, Estimated)

Puuc Region, Yucatan, Mexico

Magician's Pyramid

The Nunnery

Ball Court, El Juego de Pelota

Great Pyramid and the Temple of the Gaucamayas

House of Pidgeons - Dovecote

The Governor's Palace and Courtyard

House of Turtles, the Plaza, Quadrangle of the Birds, Water Management

Part TWO

BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

Buenos Aires Coming Soon!!! Just a quick one nighter...Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires Coming Soon!!! Palermo Hollywood!!Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires Coming Soon!!! New Friends, Feria de Recoleta and more Palermo HollywoodBuenos Aires

Buenos Aires Coming Soon!!! Viva La Boca!!!Buenos AiresViva La Boca!!

Las Tres Fronteras

Puerto Iguazú, ARGENTINA

Chile: Hanga Roa (Easter Island)

How not to Spend a Dollar

November 2019Chile: Hanga Roa Yes... There's a Town on Easter Island(and it's pretty cool) Coming Soon!

November 2019Chile: Hanga Roa Hanga Vare Vare & Playa Poko Poko Coming Soon!

November 2019Chile: Hanga Roa Tatooine (I mean tattoo me) Coming Soon!

November 2019Chile: Hanga Roa Odds and Ends (and how not to die in one of most remote places on the Earth) Coming Soon!earth

Chile: Santiago

November 2019
Tom L.

Coming Soon!

An unexpected gem

November 2019
Tom L.

Coming Soon!

The Street Market

November 2019
Tom L.

Coming Soon!

Centro District

November 2019
Tom L.

Coming Soon!

Sunsets & Great Food

November 2019
Tom L.

Coming Soon!

Worker Strikes & the Miami Connection

A stop along the way

Coming Soon!
sewer

The Historic Iglesia de San Servacio

Coming Soon!
sewer

Buenos Aires

Coming Soon!!! Just a quick one nighter...

Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires

Coming Soon!!! Palermo Hollywood!!

Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires

Coming Soon!!! New Friends, Feria de Recoleta and more Palermo Hollywood

Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires

Coming Soon!!! Viva La Boca!!!

Buenos AiresViva La Boca!!

November 2019
Chile: Hanga Roa

Yes... There's a Town on Easter Island

(and it's pretty cool)

Coming Soon!

November 2019
Chile: Hanga Roa

Hanga Vare Vare & Playa Poko Poko

Coming Soon!

November 2019
Chile: Hanga Roa

Tatooine

(I mean tattoo me)

Coming Soon!

November 2019
Chile: Hanga Roa

Odds and Ends

(and how not to die in one of most remote places on the Earth)

Coming Soon!

earth