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Category: Culture

Buenos Aires – A Vibrant Chaos of Calm

There are normal or black market money exchange houses in Buenos Aires and of course an ATM can exchange your money as well, albeit for a

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A VIBRANT CHAOS OF CALM

BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

El Ateneo Grand Splendid in Recoleta

There are normal or black market money exchange houses in Argentina and of course an ATM can exchange your money as well, albeit for a fairly high fee. The official rate you get at an official exchange isn’t as good as you will likely get at the “unofficial” cambio’s along Calle Florida which was right by our AirBnb in the San Nicolás neighborhood in the heart of Downtown Buenos Aires. Our AirBnB host who had graciously agreed to help us find an exchange, moved deftly through the crowds with us following closely. Having never been in Argentina it was dizzying to have just arrived and then move so quickly through the streets to an unknown destination with no time to take anything in. The first black market cambio's price (yes we’re vagabonds like that) didn’t sit well with our host. They wouldn’t exchange at the “blue” rate or the black market rate so we moved quickly onto the next cambio, which he felt had a more acceptable rate. He seemed to enjoy the negotiation and we took note how fortunate we were to have him as a host. A man that appeared to guard the door to the illegal exchange allowed us to enter after the price was agreed upon. Our host waited outside. Inside sat two men at a table with stacks of money in front of them and while I was busy briefly wondering how hard it would be for our families to get our bodies back to the States, they asked how much we wanted to exchange. So, keeping my voice steady, I gave them my hardest tough guy look and said "For now,I’d like to exchange three hundred U.S.". The men preferred hundred dollar bills over twenties to get the best rate for some reason. We obliged. After we exchanged I thanked the men and quickly exited. Our AirBnb host smiled and asked in perfect English if that was all we needed. After expressing some gratitude for him helping us we simply asked him to point us in the direction of the Obelisco de Buenos Aires so we could get our bearings. I had studied the area on maps enough before leaving the States and knew if we could make it to there, we’d be in good shape. I was confident we’d find some food along the way or close to there. I offered out host somewhat of a tip for helping us but he kindly refused so we shook hands and separated as Angie and I headed off into the concrete jungle of Buenos Aires officially now on our own.

Angie, having spent so much time in New York City, was excited to explore such a large unique South American city with a strong European vibe. The Obelisco was somewhat easy to find using Google maps but I still tried to not be so obvious with the phone and therefore draw unneeded attention by looking too touristy. Angela would occasionally frown at me for walking through the streets using the phone. At that point, I wasn’t sure who was most danger to me, Angela's laser looks or a hypothetical thief.

For whatever reason I get drawn to obelisks when we travel. I find it interesting in a Knights Templar/ Freemason kind of way that many cities around the world have erected numerous Egyptian styled obelisks. Some cities, like New York and London over a hundred years ago, even went so far as to actually import genuine ancient Obelisks from Egypt. Cleopatra’s Needle is a magnificent example of a piece of Egyptian antiquity that’s thousands of years old and yet sits humbly just behind the Metropolitan Museum of Fine Art in Central Park. You’d be surprised how many New Yorkers even don’t know it’s there. With all the conspiracy theories written about the obelisks, it's not unusual for me to seek them out. To me, they represent an ancient wisdom and if you've learned anything about me from any of my articles, you know I love and respect history and mystery.

Not far from the Plaza de la República where the Obelisco rose up above the busy late afternoon traffic, we wondered past several restaurant locations. Some even had some outdoor seating and music we found charming but the menus were not what we were looking for. After wondering around we settled on a place that caught our eye called Revire Brasas Bravas. Angela was kind enough to settle for a steakhouse although she’s mostly vegetarian. We were both famished at this point and just need to pick a place. She said there were enough things on the menu she could fill up on. The food was decent but the service was impeccable. Sitting down gave us a chance to breath and take it all in. We were finally able to simply enjoy our arrival to Buenos Aires. The rush from the Airport to get through the gates to find our driver who then rushed us to our AirBnb to meet our host who then rushed us to the cambio really didn’t give us time to feel like we had truly arrived. That feeling didn’t hit till we sat down to enjoy a calm, decent meal. That crazy initial introduction to the city was still perhaps the most honest. This was after all... Buenos Aires.

Obelisco de Buenos Aires

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

 


The Melting Pot












 

One may think exploring Buenos Aires would give you that New York City vibe, but in truth, it’s nothing like New York. That flippant expectation comes from a naïve American booking the trip. Namely me.

 

While financially, Argentina may struggle with higher than wanted unemployment numbers and a constantly fluctuating and unstable Argentinean Peso, it maintains a rich and inclusive heritage. At the turn of the 20th century almost half of the population in Buenos Aires were recent European immigrants who were attracted to the New World and what was then a stable and promising economy. More recently many immigrants or their descendants have returned to Europe in search of a better economy but what they leave behind is a country still rich in its heritage of art, architecture and ideas. In more recent years the United States has attempted to move to more Nationalistic America (i.e. Americans) first philosophy. We seem to have forgotten our immigration past and what made our country so rich in ideas, industry and art in the first place. That American melting pot produced a juggernaut of a Nation and yet today it’s dropped out of fashion. Argentina, and more specifically Buenos Aires, seems to have never forgotten that heritage. Instead they embrace it. I’m sure they have their own problems with bigotry and racism. I’m not sure any country is immune to that. Argentineans still seem to keep in mind they are a Nation of immigrants, like it happened only yesterday and not over a hundred years ago when immigration was at its peak. The United States has a shorter attention span it seems these days. The attacks of 9/11 caused a lot of that discourse, especially toward Arab communities, while conversely South American countries like Paraguay have embraced new Arab immigrants.

 

Culturally Buenos Aires just feels richer and more artistic than most cities I’ve been to in the US. Maybe it was just the newness of our experience. New York feels more purposeful and financially driven with much of the artistic expression of the 60’s, 70’s, 80’s and the early 90’s leaving when Giuliani and more recent politicians concentrated on reforms that sanitized the city. Sure bits of each city are still reflected in each other and in all cities, but while New York was a melting pot of immigrants and new ideas many decades in the past, Buenos Aires feels like that melting pot never stopped.

 

As we explored parts of the San Nicolás and Recoleta barrios we were struck by the architecture and the importance placed on art and space. You seemed to come across a park every couple blocks with ornate statues or monuments. Throughways, that probably were once streets, are now blocked off with posts and instead only allow foot traffic and maybe scooters or bikes. Outdoor umbrella tables dot the landscape of most throughways with restaurant patrons enjoying meals, a few beers and often some form of live music, usually of the Spanish variety.

 

Beautiful buildings like the Palace of Justice of the Argentine Nation built between 1905-1910, which houses the Argentinean Supreme Court, is an impressive example of the neoclassical style architecture brought over from Italy and France during its immigration boom years.

 

Across from the Supreme Court you’ll find a beautiful Jewish Synagogue called the Templo Libertad. Construction began in 1897 and wasn’t deemed complete until 1932. It is again a perfect example of the cities immigration boom. It’s an example of German styled synagogues that were commonly found throughout Germany prior to WWII. Unfortunately, the Nazi party destroyed many examples in Germany during the war so this example in particular, is an even more incredibly important survivor of a by gone era.

 

Another of our amazing finds, besides the numerous cafes serving endless cups of coffee, was the Al Antaneo Grand Splendid in Recoleta. My friend Sebastiaan, who was living in Chile at the time (Now lives in Spain) had suggested we needed to hunt it down. Not only is it one of the world’s largest bookstores but it was also named the world’s most beautiful bookstore by National Geographic. It’s real easy to understand why it would hold that distinction. Previously, for over a hundred years, the building was a magnificent theater that housed over a thousand seats. When it was converted in to bookstore the essence of the historic theater was maintained. Frescoes, painted a hundred years or so ago by the Argentinean-Italian artist Nazareno Orlandi, draw your eyes to the already ornate domed ceiling. The woodwork and the multi levels insure you can discover something new around every corner and nook and cranny. Angela and I love bookstores but unfortunately, and not surprising, the English section was very small… as it should be. We still loved exploring the volume of corridors of books. On the old stage you can find an expected café where one can enjoy a coffee and a pastry. Angela fell prey, as she often does, to the medical section while I simply took in the reason part of the name of the bookstore is “Splendid” because - it is indeed exactly that. 

 

On the walk back to our AirBnb from Recoleta we stopped for a small bite to eat and upon reaching the Obelisco we decided to once again take a range of pictures of the structure. At night the Obelisk takes on a different look with the lighting and the traffic moving around it. I think it made our exploration of the city and our overall experience that night seem even more surreal... or maybe we were just tired.

 

The next day we packed up and headed a little further out of Buenos Aires into what is a more country setting. A new driver picked us up to take us to the next part of our adventure where we planned to meet up with some new friends.

 

Along the way our driver showed us a few interesting sites like the Torre de los Inglesses, A.K.A. the Tower of the English, which sits in the Retiro neighborhood. Again, more melting pot architecture, this time with mid 19th century English influence. It was gifted to the English population of Buenos Aires by the English government in 1910 in remembrance of the 1810 revolution (although it didn't finish construction and open until 1916). 1910 was the year Argentina started its journey toward independent nation status. The 1910 centennial celebration, which the Tower was built for, was said to be one hell of a party. When you get a feel for the city and its people its easy to understand why any party they throw would be a great one.











PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Campana and Zárate

Dinner at Las Farolas de la Rivera in Zárate, Argentina with our friend Martîn

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

The six stages of eating blood sausage for the first time

1st Stage of eating blood sausage at Parrilla Los Leños Asador Criollo
2nd stage of eating blood sausage at Parrilla Los Leños Asador Criollo
3rd stage of eating blood sausage at Parrilla Los Leños Asador Criollo
4th stage of eating blood sausage at Parrilla Los Leños Asador Criollo
5th stage of eating blood sausage at Parrilla Los Leños Asador Criollo
6th Stage - Not realizing I've been pranked by some of my local Argentinean friends but they are talking in Spanish and laughing so I laugh too!

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann



Love and Friendship

 

We had an opportunity to visit an area over an hour outside the city and spend a few days among some new friends. We were so happy we took this detour.

 

One of the things I dislike about traveling is any missed opportunity to connect with people. So far I’d say we’ve been able to connect with people at about 75% of the locations we’ve visited. By connect, this means we still, to this day stay in contact. These are people that made an impact in our lives.

 

The area we visited was northeast of Argentina between the towns of Campana and Zárate. Getting outside the city gave us a different perspective. Both cities, although an hour away from the “Autonomous City of Buenos Aires” still sits within the “Province of Buenos Aires”. How the province itself is divided up is a bit complicated and a quick Google search on your own will explain it better than I ever could so I’m not going to attempt it. What I will tell you is that both Campana and Zárate have a total population just under 200,000 so it’s not exactly a rural part of Argentina. Since they are both port towns on the mighty Parana River they play a important vital rule in Argentinean industry. That’s doesn’t mean when compared to the Downtown area of Argentina that it absolutely doesn’t feel like you’re deep out in the farmlands of nowhere. The contrast is striking. In truth, you only have to go a short way from Campana or Zárate to reach ranches and farmland if you want to see plenty of cows or horses.

 

Yet another of the surprising things Argentina probably does better in today’s world than America does in today’s world (keeping the past out of this conversation) are cowboys or gauchos. While the gaucho’s prime may have been during the 1800’s and into the mid 1900’s they are still, to this very day, very visible throughout Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay and Southern Brazil. Argentinean cattle and meat production is top notch. That’s also where the legendary gaucho’s still play a vital role. The pride Argentineans have in their meat production shows up on menus from the tip of Patagonia to the northern reaches of Iguazu Falls.

 

While visiting our friends they decided to take us to an authentic parrilla, which is basically what we’d call a Bar-B-Q here in the States. If you look for a parrilla in a Google search in Argentina, numerous options pop up to show just how popular they are culturally to that country. The Parrilla they took us to was called Los Leños Asador Criollo just outside of Zárate. The options seemed to be meat or you could have some kind of meat. After some non-discussion, we all decided to get both. I felt a little bad for Angela who had to dig out something vegetarian from the meaty menu but she managed and didn’t complain at all. It was easy for both of us to understand the cultural significance of the parrilla once we were there and could take it all in. We were very happy to spend time and get to know some of the people we now call friends.

 

The parrilla served most items family style. All the meats were brought out on a hot plate and everyone got to choose what they wanted and in what portions. It was basically keto heaven if I had been doing keto, which I wasn’t. My philosophy on this trip was to just eat and enjoy. What I was not aware of was that our friends were willing to take advantage of my philosophy by ordering blood sausage, which they secretly suspected I wouldn’t like. They were willing to prank me just to see the look on my face. Of course they told Angela of their intentions which she promptly did not mention to me – until I was writing about the experience in this blog! Well, I tried to brave my first blood sausage experience but my face couldn’t keep secret what my taste buds were telling me. I managed to swallow whatever it was I put in my mouth and had to figure out how to cleanse my pallet after. All of which Angela managed to of course catch on film.

 

One of the greatest parts of the parrilla experience and in truth, the entire trip, was when we crammed seven people into a small compact car and no one complained even when our friends Andie and Sol had to share the hatchback area.. Instead they played Spanish pop music and all our hosts sang beautifully for our entire trip to and from the parrilla. I’m not sure I’ll ever forget that. It may be that one thing more than any other that will stay etched into my mind. It makes me yearn to go back to Argentina to spend more time with the amazing people we met and still remember fondly.

 

Eventually we met up with a completely different group on another day thanks to another friend we met named Martín. He picked out a very different restaurant in Zarate called Las Farolas de la Rivera. The place had a very hip authentic Spanish vibe. Although still considered a “bar-b-q” the menu included many other side dish options and some excellent fish options that I opted for. Again, the privilege of the company is what made the dinner amazing but I will say, the food and the service was excelente! 





Upon leaving the restaurant we found a few small venders selling goods in the adjacent courtyard. One of the things we became intrigued with, being the caffeine addicts we both were, was the yerba maté that appeared to be the national drink of South America if there was such a thing. At least it seemed that way in the circles we were traveling in. Martín was kind enough to help Angela pick out a traditional cup. which is sometimes made from a dried Calabash gourd. They also picked out the accompanying bombilla, which is basically a metal straw. The maté caffeine game in Argentina put our significant coffee game to shame. The maté is actually a bit higher in caffeine. You'll even see people carrying a thermos around with them so they can guarantee they always have plenty of maté. Latin Americans in general, all the way from Mexico to Argentina and Chile, really like their maté. 


 

Our trip into the heartland of Argentina was an honor and privilege. Getting to know and spend time with authentic new friends gave us a greater sense of family one may not normally get with the locals when traveling. It showed the importance the people of Argentina place on that ideal. Sure, we were maybe missing out a little on some of your 'normal' touristy attractions but what we gained was far more valuable - love and friendships. These are friends that if they ever made it to our neck of the woods, we’d try and drop everything to make sure they are as comfortable in our country as they made us feel in theirs.

Recoleta and Retiro

Retiro Barrio, Buenos Aires

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero














A mad dash

 

It was finally time to head back to the Autonomous City of Buenos Aires. The plan was to spend more time in Recoleta before we departed for a time, but we’d be back. Our friend Juan, who I still chat with almost daily, promised to be our chauffeur. During the drive Juan played plenty of AC/DC. He doesn’t speak much English but he can sing the hell out of it if it’s AC/DC!

 

We had a short wish list for the day. Angie wanted to get a little shopping done and we were craving empanadas. Food came first.

 

Juan took us to a great little place that was super inexpensive with perfect empanadas called El Sanjuanino. The waiters were great and we were able to enjoy some quality time with our friend. The place wasn’t very big but it was packed. We were lucky to get the last table. You could tell that locals and tourists alike flocked to this place. You could detect a myriad of languages at the surrounding tables.  Juan mentioned he often took his family there. We recommend this place if you’re traveling, need an empanada and want to watch your money. Something about the atmosphere makes one feel more connected to the local culture.

After lunch, Juan took us to the true heart of Recoleta… Plaza Francia. Smaller plazas like Plaza San Martin de Tours spread out adjacent from the dominating Plaza Francia. Around that whole area you’ll find amazing trees like Australian Moreton Bay Fig trees and giant rubber trees. Some of the trees are hundreds of years old and the city takes great care to maintain and preserve them. The area also boasts a cultural center, restaurants, stores and a peaceful atmosphere.

 

On the weekends the Plaza hosts a large flea market with tons of vendors selling numerous wares like jewelry, carvings, paintings and leather works. Music surrounds you. Juan and I spend some time following Angela as she hunted; I mean "shopped" the market looking for some souvenirs or other items that might have caught her eye. The plaza was beautiful and the market was vast but we didn’t have a lot of time to explore. We’d have some time at a later point to revisit the Feria de Recoleta.

 

Before we came to our final destination, Juan gave a quick stop to show us the Palace de Glace, which has been a National Monument since 2004 and an important part of Argentina’s cultural heritage. Over the last hundred years it’s been a lot of things from an ice skating rink to a dance hall. Today it’s run by the National Office of Fine Arts and holds numerous exhibitions. When we were there it was undergoing renovations.

 

Our mad dash for the day ended once we pulled into the ferry terminal to board the Buquebus. Juan helped us with minimal luggage and we shook hands and hugged before we set off to our next destination but not before we made arrangements to meet up with Juan at another point in time.

 

Making our way through the terminal and boarding our Ferry was fairly painless. We did have to stand in line for a short while to get our boarding pass but once the boarding started we simply herded like cattle onto the ferry and were set. Argentineans are very adept at herding cattle.

 

The ferry was incredibly large and travels at over 50 knots. It’s among the fastest in the world. We had splurged and purchased 1st class seating for this leg of the journey, which was a cool and unique experience. The few extra perks made a difference and gave us time to relax and take a breather. The extra cost was nominal. I think I paid maybe 40 or 50 bucks more a ticket. There were excellent food options and they served perfect coffee. For us this was a luxury on a trip where we typically watched what we spent. Once the ferry departs you find yourself floating across the massive Río de la Plata, which is the worlds largest river estuary.  Upon first glance you might think you’re on the Atlantic Ocean except the water under you is mostly freshwater with a saltwater mix. Across the massive river is the country of Uruguay, our next stop. We would arrive in Montevideo in about two and half hours.



Thomas Lonero, Author

Date of Trip - November 2019





Chile: Valparaíso

Once called the little San Francisco, you could say the history of the world has passed through this jewel of the pacific.

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Valparaíso, Chile

The Once and Mighty Port

 

Once called the little San Francisco, you could say the history of the world has passed through this jewel of the pacific. Before the completion on the Panama Canal in 1914, Valparaíso grew exponentially. During the 19th-century, German, Spanish, Italian and English immigrants passed through and often settled. Early world globalization efforts easily dominated throughout this region of South America in the 1800’s. The city was the main port connecting the Atlantic and the Pacific oceans before or after ships navigated through the straights of Magellan, which sits at the southern tip of Chile and Argentina. There have even been major battles fought just within reach of its harbor.

After the Panama Canal the port activity slowed dramatically and as the harbor traffic slowed, so did the growth of the city. Today, its resilience is a testament to the cities history and its people. While still an important seaport for Chile, especially with the largest city of Santiago being only 75 miles (120 Km) away, the more southern port of San Antonio has taken over the major role of not only the countries largest port but also the largest in all of South America. Now Valparaiso widely serves as one of Chiles hottest tourist destinations. Cruise ships pile up in the Harbor during the summer months. Artists, cafes, swank hotels and hostels and regular festivals dot the landscape. The last three days of the year hold a huge celebration culminating in a fireworks display to bring in the New Year. The popular upscale beach town of Viña Del Mar is only a few miles up the coast as well as other popular beaches.

We started out our journey from Santiago and drove about an hour west to get to Valparaíso. Santiago is 1,870 ft (570 m) above sea level. It’s basically a slow climb down hill to get there. It gets noticeably steeper the closer you get. Arriving in the main part of town the first thing you notice besides the age is the culture. It sweats culture and seawater. The landscape is phenomenal. The city sits like a natural amphitheater overlooking the southern Pacific Ocean. Colorful historic buildings, terraced up the hills, go deep into neighborhoods mostly built during those early globalization years. Valparaiso, much like San Francisco, tends to have regular fog but when we went the skies were blue and you could see clearly for miles.

Our first stop was the main harbor entrance and a place on the water called Restaurant Bote Salvavidas. The food was great albeit a little pricey. The view was amazing and the initial service was good but for some reason waiters switched up on us and we got lost in the shuffle at the end. We sat there for a long time after we were finished and had to hunt someone down to get the check (la cuenta). Maybe thats a cultural thing? Beyond that little mix up, the location was amazing. It's known as one of the best seafood places in town.

From there we shopped at a few small vendors at the dock but opted not to get anything. A few local friends had joined us and warned us we could get all that stuff much cheaper most anywhere else. Angela really wanted to get something with Chilean Lapis Lazuli. The often-bright blue stone is native to Chile and prices vary wildly for the stone. If you purchase any, try and buy from a reputable seller to insure quality and authenticity. 

Across from the harbor is the Plaza Sotomayor with the magnificent Monumento a Los Heroes de Iquique. It’s a dedication to fallen heroes during the Battle of Iquique. The famous naval battle was part of the war of the Pacific in 1879 between Peru and Chile. The streets were bustling with activity and friendly street vendors were selling their wares in the plaza. Some vendors were even selling interesting antiques I wish I could have purchased but we generally travel lightly with only carry on luggage. Any purchases we make to take home have to be small in size. 

Before heading up the hill Angie managed to catch some great shots of kids hanging out and skateboarding by the Appeals Court. We had to be mindful that during our stay in Chile large, and at times dangerous, protests were going on (as discussed in the Santiago blog). The largest protests were going on in the capital of Santiago but evidence that some of the protests carried onto Valparaiso were all around us in the form of graffiti and postings. Sotomayor Plaza was usually where the protestors congregated every night after the vendors packed up and went home. We still had some discovery in the hills to do before any of that broke out later. We really didn’t want to get caught up in that unknown so we started our trek upwards.

Cerro Alegre’s el Peral Staircase

 

The stairs of Valparaiso are not only built into the surrounding hillsides but are built into the bohemian artistry and style of the city. They are part of the outdoor museum of street art that shouldn’t be missed. Local artists are allowed and encouraged to express themselves on cement, brick and mortared canvases throughout the hillside communities. Nowhere is that more apparent than the hillside communities of Cerro Concepción and Cerro Alegre. Cerro literally means ‘hill’.

Moving on from Plaza Sotomayor we started up to Cerro Alegre by climbing the staircase that rises generally adjacent to the funicular or incline lift called Subida el Peral. Many people will choose a funicular incline lift to travel up into the hills. While assuredly it’s a special part of Valparaiso, we opted to not use the lift since we also have historic inclines back home in Pittsburgh. Plus we’d miss the art. I’m not 100% sure the name of that staircase we climbed but any staircase climb in the city is almost guaranteed to be a special cultural and artistic expression. It wasn’t a famous staircase in Valparaiso like the Piano in Concepción or the Apolo in another area of Alegre and I couldn’t find it on any list, but some of the murals we found were still spectacular. The mix of cultural and political influence in the artwork is thought provoking. The street art varies from colorful and intricate to some that are simply a statement in writing that still manages to punch you in the stomach. It’s a direct reflection on the people and what they want to say. 

The climb up didn't take long. There are much longer excursions you could do and more famous ones. Once at the top we reached El Peral Street, which leads me to believe that the stairs are simply an extension of the street. The reward for climbing to the top is well worth it.

sits

Paseo Yugoslavo

Cerro Alegre is a beautiful historic barrio with cafes, hotels, restaurants, unique shops and street art around every corner. There are plenty of AirBnbs available in the area if we have had the need. In fact, I had booked one and had to cancel when plans changed. During the 1800’s English immigrants largely settled the neighborhood. You can easily see why so many people flock to these hills every year. 

At the top of the stair we had just climbed and to the left begins the Yugoslavo promenade, which started out as a dirt road with modest wooden railings in the far distant past. Today it offers incredible views of Vaparaiso Bay along with cafes and street vendors. It’s there while viewing that you fully understand why Valparaíso has been honored with the label of being a UNESCO World Heritage Site… or maybe the honor is the other way around. 

At the corner of the Yugoslvo promenade on the corner of Montealegre Street sits the Baburizza Palace, built in 1916 by Italian architects. It’s a incredible unique building that now houses the cities Municipal Museum of Fine Arts. For just under $5.00 US, you can gain admission. 

We walked a bit around the neighborhood an up toward Concepción hill before eventually working our way back down the stairs they same way we came up. We were able to take in the street art one final time and maybe noticed a few things we may have missed on the way up.

At the bottom, Angie once again noticed the kids sitting outside the Appeals Court and took another picture (By the way, she really saved this journey since many of my pics came out bad for Valparaiso). The picture she took also happened to capture the statue of lady justice. This version of lady justice holds the scale at her side and doesn’t wear a blindfold, which is beyond odd, especially outside of a courthouse. Turns out, is in most odd things, there’s a story. An Englishman, who once had an affair with a judge’s wife, was forced to flee the city never to return. For revenge, he had the best sculptures in France created a statue that he requested with a specific set of features. He then donated it to the city. The city, thinking it was some fancy French Bronze statue proudly accepted it and placed it outside their Supreme Court. It took them 30 years to realize they had been had but instead of removing the statue, they revised the meaning. The Chilean Government claimed the statue means that outside of court, street justice prevails while inside the more conventional characteristics were followed. 

You got to love when governments revise history to fit their agendas. No country is immune from that. It's always up to the people to remember the truth.

Valparaiso is a fantastic city with so much to offer. We are very indebted to our Chilean friends, although one was technically Uruguayan, for all the help they gave us in exploring a UNESCO site once called the “Jewel of the Pacific”.

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Mexico: Valladolid, Yucatan

Magnificent sunsets, colorful architecture and a historic square filled with culture make this quaint town worth a visit.

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Mexico: Valladolid, Yucatan

A stop along the way

Looking down Calle 41 from the town center as the sun sets - No Filter


A stop along the way

 

Coming Soon!

sewer

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Music and dancing in the town square


The Historic Iglesia de San Servacio

 

Coming Soon!

sewer

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Buenos Aires – Part Two

If life is like a box of crayons then one can’t miss the old Italian barrio of La Boca or day-trips to Palermo Hollywood & Feria de Recoleta

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Part TWO

BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

Buenos Aires Skyline

 


Buenos Aires












 

Coming Soon!!! Just a quick one nighter...











Buenos Aires

 


Buenos Aires












 

Coming Soon!!! Palermo Hollywood!!











Buenos Aires

 


Buenos Aires












 

Coming Soon!!! New Friends, Feria de Recoleta and more Palermo Hollywood










Buenos Aires

 


Buenos Aires












 

Coming Soon!!! Viva La Boca!!!










Buenos AiresViva La Boca!!

A farewell from some of our new friends in Argentina - Ezeiza International Airport
Soon back to reality - Our last South American Empanada at the airport - still better than Pittsburgh Empanada's
Houston Layover

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Chile: Hanga Roa (Easter Island)

If you are planning a trip to Easter Island there are a few things you need to know. First, you actually need permission to visit the island

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Chile: Hanga Roa (Easter Island)

How not  to Spend a Dollar

 How not  to Spend a Dollar

The convoluted way we got to visit a legendary location

 

So in planning a trip to South America and needing to travel the main legs of the trip by using airline bonus points I had accumulated, we needed to decide how best to spend the points. We’re not rich by any means. We both have decent but demanding careers. Angela works in the medical field and I have worked for many years in the energy and real estate sector. Lately, I’ve been using my knowledge of travel to transition to another career. Generally we live fairly modest lives and can’t afford to travel in luxury like some. We do however try and use every trick in the book to travel efficiently and comfortably.

 

Easter Island was not a travel location that was on my radar. The remoteness almost seemed insurmountable and all I could imagine were the boatloads of money it would take to get us to one of the world’s greatest World Heritage sites.

 

Although we had always planned to go to South America we had originally planned a very different trip to Peru, Bolivia and Arica in Northern Chile. Our main goal was to see Cusco, Machu Picchu, Tiwanaku, La Paz and spend some beach days in Arica before making our way back to Lima to fly home. I still plan on that trip at some point but this wasn’t going to be the best way to spend our airline points so we revamped the our plans by looking at visiting further in South America like Santiago, Chile and Buenos Aires, Argentina. It would be more bang for our (airline points) buck.

 

Because I’m such a huge fan of Archeology and particularly megalithic sites, I immediately started researching sites we could visit. While Google came up with some that were close to Santiago, Chile and the other countries on our new itinerary, none could rival Machu Picchu or Tiwanaku except one… Easter Island.

 

 

A lesson in patience and Due diligence

 

 

Now if I’m to be honest, I never even knew Easter Island was part of Chile. It never occurred to me. Besides, even from Chile it was still a 5 hour flight out into the middle of the Pacific Ocean, so could we even afford the trip? Santiago was already booked. A quick Google search showed me that if we were going to go about 4 weeks out, which we weren’t because our trip was still about 6 months out, we absolutely could have afforded it. Round trip air was floating around $300.00 RT. The catch was that it was floating around $1200 to $1600 Round trip 6 months out when our trip was scheduled, which unfortunately was definitely out of our price range. LATAM Airlines was the only airline that did regular flights to Easter Island from Santiago so we couldn’t count on competition to bring down the price. I told myself I’d loosely keep an eye on airfare just in case. I went about planning our stay in Chile on the mainland.

 

As the months went by, I noticed an interesting trend when I would go to check on prices. The prices were always more expensive 3-9 months out and seemed to be cheaper 4-6 weeks out. I kept my fingers crossed that we’d be able to book a reasonable flight, as our trip got closer. About 5 weeks out the RT air from Santiago came down to about $330 RT. Afraid the price would go back up, I pulled the trigger on the tickets. I’m not sure if I would have waited another week if the price would have went up or down. Regardless, I’m glad I bought the tickets when I did because when it came time to board the plane, it was packed. Fortunately I had snagged plus seating for a nominal fee after we had booked by calling the airline. That extra legroom is nice on 5-hour flights. If I had waited a little while longer there’s a real good chance the flight would have been booked and we wouldn’t have been able to book another flight in the narrow window we would be in Chile.

 

A few things to keep in mind

 

If you’re planning to visit Easter Island as a US tourist know that you can only stay up to 30 days and not the 90 days you can stay in Chile because the island is considered a special territory. The island is small. You really only need a few days to see the entire island.

 

Some of the requirements to visit the island:

 

·      You need special permission to visit there. An actual invite letter provides proof of where you are staying. Obviously, we don’t know anyone there, but as it turns out, all that means is that you booked a place to stay. Once you book with an ‘approved’ hotel or hostel they will email you a letter. You have to book with a place approved by Senatur, which is Chiles official tourist department.

 

·      You’ll also need to fill out a Rapa Nui entry form (IRN) online, which you can find here. After filling out the IRN you’ll get a confirmation email that you’ll need to print so you can also present that to the PDI desk (Policía de Investgaciones) at the airport. They handle all the immigration paperwork. It helps to have all your ducks in a row before you get to the airport.

 

·      You’ll obviously need your passport and return ticket. No one-way tickets to Rapa Nui are permitted.

 

A great resource with step-by-step instructions is the Imagina Rapa Nui-Easter Island website. Once you have all these documents you’ll need to present at the Arturo Merino Benítez International Airport in Santiago. No one hassles you. We moved right through with the right papers.

 

 

A sacred destination

 

After a 5-hour flight we finally arrived in Easter Island at the Mataveri International Airport. It has a very long runway for such a small island. As it turns out, NASA chose the island as an emergency landing location for the Space Shuttle back in the day so the runway is the real deal. The terminal however, is really small. Some pilot’s struggle landing at some remote airports that have notoriously short runways but they definitely won’t have that problem at Mataveri.

 

Once in the airport you’ll notice a line off to the left, which I incorrectly assumed was the customs line. Even though technically we were travelling inside Chile, upon seeing the line, I thought maybe Easter Island was somehow still sort of it’s own thing and maybe they still wanted to put you through customs but that wasn’t the case. Instead, the line was for tickets to the National Park, which were $80.00 US per person. They’re only about $20.00 if you’re a Chilean citizen. There is also a place in town you can buy the tickets but it’s easier to just get them there. The majority of the island is a National Park so you’ll need the park tickets to see the majority of the archaeological sites.

 

I had also read they would stamp your passport with a special Moai stamp, which we both wanted, but unfortunately they stopped doing that at the airport. There is a however a special office in town that now does it. The person who sold us the park tickets was happy to direct us. 

 

Our host sent a driver to pick us up to take us to where we would be staying. Similar to Hawaii, our female driver gave us each one Polynesian style lei. She welcomed us in English, albeit with a thick Spanish accent. We drove off towards our cabana, amazed and humbled we had made it to this very sacred destination.








PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

November 2019

Chile: Hanga Roa

 

Yes... There's a Town on Easter Island


(and it's pretty cool)


 


  


Coming Soon!








PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

November 2019

Chile: Hanga Roa

 

Hanga Vare Vare & Playa Poko Poko




 


  


Coming Soon!








PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

November 2019

Chile: Hanga Roa

 

Tatooine 


(I mean tattoo me)



 


  


Coming Soon!








PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

November 2019

Chile: Hanga Roa

 

Odds and Ends 


(and how not to die in one of most remote places on the Earth)



 


  


Coming Soon!








earth

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

CUBA: No Escape from Reality

Maybe it was the soldiers that helped remind one you were in a Communist Country…

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CUBA:

No Escape from Reality


After roughly 6-½ hours we landed in Havana’s José Martí International Airport, which first opened in 1930. It’s now comprised of two distinct terminals. Terminal 2, the newest, opened in 1998 once it became easier for some U.S. Charter flights to travel to Cuba. Back in the late 90’s, and throughout much of the 2000’s, it was mostly flights from New York and Miami that reunited once divided families split when the US embargos of the 60’s disallowed US airlines access to Cuba. Today it’s the terminal most often used for international flights while the old one is used primarily for only domestic. Something about Terminal 2 still feels way older than 1998. Maybe it was the climb down the stairs onto the tarmac and working our way toward the terminal, even though I’ve done that before. Maybe is was just the mystic of traveling to a location that for a long, long time was nearly impossible to get to directly from the United States. Or maybe it was the armed soldiers, although not overtly visible, that stood ready and reminded one that you’ve now entered a Communist police state country. Because it feels a little like 80's action movies retro it tends to make anyone’s first time in Cuba feel both exhilarating and a little bit dangerous. 


 

Our flight originated out of Pittsburgh on United Airlines. It didn’t exactly didn’t start out so smooth. When traveling to Cuba one needs a tourist card, sometimes called a visa (although technically it’s not). Normal ways of getting one is through your airline, the Cuban Embassy or some online sites that claim you can get one through them. United sells them in locations where a direct flight leaves from, like Newark, which was our first-stop with a 1.5 hour layover mind you. For some reason the lady at the counter seemed to be believe we should have the visa in hand first. That would have meant we’d have had to either travel to the Cuban Embassy in D.C. or one of the destination airports where United sells the visa, like Newark, and then travel back to Pittsburgh to then board our plane (which then went directly to Newark). Luckily the lady at the counter saw how ridicules this was and allowed us to board before both our plane and our patience left us.

We traveled in early 2019 under the now banned “People-to-People” option. Cruises are now banned as well. You can still travel there under 11 categories, which if you stay within the US Customs set parameters, counts as a “travel license” granted by the U.S. Government. You don’t get an actual hard copy of a license; the US is simply allowing you to go there legally. The category that is currently the most popular is “Support of the Cuban People”. It’s a stricter, but very doable, version of the “people to people” category we used. 

At some point I may write more in depth about what it takes to get to Cuba legally with the new restrictions, but today I’d rather just tell you about our trip.

Going through customs we were questioned about the amount of older cell phones and tablets we were bringing in. Research said those were some of the main items Cubans desired along with good candy, which we also brought. Since we try to travel light without checked baggage these items fit well in our carry on. We had intended to give them to people we knew we were going to meet to dispense as they saw fit. Far exceeding the amount allowed of two per traveler, we were surprised when customs allowed them through. They let us off with a mild warning making us feel like we had single-handedly defeated Communism.

Making our way outside, we came across a taxi stand unlike any other airport taxi stand we'll probably ever see again outside of Cuba. Lined with pre-1959 Detroit and American steel made classic cars, we were immediately jolted back in time. Some are in great condition while others are seemingly held together with band-aides, glue and duct tape.

We didn’t have the time to absorb the shock of seeing so much historic Americano on Cuban soil before the fierce competition from multitudes of drivers trying to earn our fare became the new focus of our attention. Call me paranoid, but I really don’t like to take chances on taxi drivers in foreign countries, especially aggressive ones. It generally makes me nervous and brings up memories of those 80's movies again where things went bad quickly. In talking to a few folks who had previously traveled to Cuba I was able to make a connection with a cab driver they knew and trusted who was able to meet us when we landed. It’s just something I try and do when I travel. The guy, whom I had contacted through WhatsApp, wound up sending his brother in his stead. Outside he was holding a sign with two names on it – Thor and Angela. While I don’t feel like I look like a Thor it seemed ok to just roll with it given Chris Hemsworth’s current popularity and at least one of us was a tall blonde – even if it wasn’t me. Fortunately for us, our driver even spoke a little English.

sewer

A Drive Back in Time…

It seemed like a drive of a lifetime… back in time. Cuba is myth. Cuba is legend. Expectations that the culture would have an exotic spin to it were well on their way to being fulfilled. There are not many places like Cuba left on the planet. Places stopped in time. That was even more evident sitting in the back seat of our pink, pre-1959, Buick convertible. Passing palm trees and numerous pre-Cuban Revolution American cars, as colorful as the Spanish architecture, could make anyone feel a little longing for simpler times.

Intentions here aren’t to write about Communism in Cuba but it can’t be ignored either. Many grew up in the cold war. Kennedy, Castro, the Bay of Pigs and the Cuban Missile Crisis are well known history. Still, Cuba surprised me in how little I really knew about the country and it’s people. We learn from propaganda machines and while much may be justified; it’s still easy to forget there are real people there. People like you and I, with sons and daughters who have successes and struggles, just like you and I. That will live and die, just like the rest of us. Many judge a country by the Government and the politics but that isn’t what a country is. A country is the people and the Cuban people I met are magnificent and proud.

One anomaly in Cuba that isn’t nostalgic is AirBnb. Even with an Internet that’s still in its infancy AirBnb has found a niche there. It perfectly qualifies for the “People to People” or “Support of the Cuban People” category. It takes all the guesswork out of trying to figure out if the Cuban government owns the Hotel you’re considering booking (a big no-no) or whether or not it’s privately owned. US Customs provides a list of where Americans are allowed to go and stay, but it frequently changes. 

The mobile Network there is still sporting 2G and 3G and likely will be for some time. Not on this drive (but at one point in our trip) I picked up a sim card from the countries cellular company, Cubacel, to have better Internet access and be able to make local calls. With long lines out the door it was a pain and time consuming. I believe I had to pay for an entire month for about 70 dollars even though we only needed it for a week. Because of this sketchy Internet availability, most AirBnb hosts likely can’t get back to you immediately. The vast majority of Cubans rely on neighborhood government Wi-Fi parks that are hopefully in walking distance. There they connect via a phone card you can purchase at various locations usually marked with a “Cubacel” sign. Most visitors and tourists rely on the same phone cards and Wi-Fi parks. 

Our drive from the airport to our AirBnb was going to take about 45 minutes. Along the way we drove past a surprisingly affluent area of well-groomed estates. Our driver explained that area had embassies operated by countries that maintain diplomatic relations with Cuba. We were mildly surprised such decadent estates still existed, but then again, why wouldn't they.

In Cuba you need cash and we needed to exchange some quickly even just to pay our driver. Barely anywhere accepts credit cards except maybe the big hotels. There are two different currencies in Cuba. The one visitors need to be concerned with is the Cuban Convertible Peso called the CUC. It’s pinned 1 to 1 against the US dollar. That doesn’t mean you’re going to spend a ton of money there because it’s 1 to 1. You could easily get by on a 100 CUC a day or less for two people. For reference, at one point I had bought an entire pizza for a dollar. Research had said we had several options to exchange Cuban pesos. Airport lines at the cambio de dinero (money exchange) are long so we wanted to avoid that. Another option was going into Havana to a bank to exchange but both cambios and banks charge a 10% fee plus another 3% as a processing fee. The third option would be a private exchange. I had arranged ahead of time with our drivers brother to possibly exchange so we could avoid the extra 3% fee and the lengthy lines. However, I wasn’t expecting his brother to take us directly to his home.

Driving into a barrio on the outskirts of Havana where fixing potholes, that our driver deftly out maneuvered, was apparently unheard of. The homes, many in need of a fresh coat of paint and basic maintenance, seemed tightly pushed together. I briefly wondered if this was how one loses a kidney. Apparently I’ve watched too many movies.

Eventually we came to a gated home. Our driver jumped out to unlock it so he could pull the Buick in. I made sure to note the he immediately locked it once we were safely inside. It was then a little girl ran up to greet her daddy with his wife not far behind. With a proud smile he introduced us. We managed to choke out a few “Holas” and “Gracias” along with our own smiles. Any concerns of losing a kidney immediately gone with the warm welcome we received. Our movie-style kidnapping left to only my imagination.

Just to make the reader aware, exchanging money privately in communist Cuba is frowned upon. It’s definitely not recommended for first time travelers unless you know and trust the person you’ll be exchanging with. We took a risk, but I like to consider the world isn’t as terrible as the gossipmongers and naysayers would want us to believe.

Making our way around back of his home we were also introduced to his elderly mother. Her smile lit up the home. We were surprised to learn then that our driver was also a preacher. I thought what an odd combo, preacher/taxi driver, but then when you hear taxi drivers in Cuba can make more money in a day than a neurosurgeon can in a month, you begin to understand why those old American cars are so valuable to the Cuban people. As the preacher went to gather up some money for us (I think we exchanged 500 dollars) his wife honored us with our first genuine cup of Cuban coffee much to Angie’s delight. It was made the perfect way over the top of the stove and likely the only way they ever made it in that house. For the exchange we paid the 10% fee, which you really can’t get away from, although I hear the percentage can fluctuate. We did save the additional 3% the cambio or bank would have charged us and from what I understand, if you stay in a hotel and exchange there, you’ll get charged even more than 3%. Knowing our driver probably can’t make financially in Cuba what we make here in the US, we hoped exchanging with him helped a little. 

Rich or poor, money couldn’t buy the love you felt in his humble home. His wife was kind enough to make us a few more cups of coffee while we attempted to have discussions our driver attempted to translate. This was also unfortunately our realization why it was terrible we knew so little Spanish. With his family not knowing any English, you could sense the disappointment that we couldn’t communicate well, especially from our driver’s mother. There could have been so much insight we could have gained from them but the language presented a formidable barrier. I would have loved to hear, from someone like our drivers mother, her take on Che Guevara, Castro, the Cuban Revolution and America’s part in it all. After all, she lived through it all.

Even with the language barrier, it was still the perfect introduction to Cuba and the culture. Grateful, we left them with some of the candy we had brought as well a few other things we’d hoped they’d like. His daughter’s eyes lit up at the site of American candy.

Mi Casa, Tu Casa

Our Airbnb was in Casablanca across the Port of Havana from Old Town. Within walking distance would be the El Cristo de La Habana, a giant marble statue of Christ completed in 1958. Communist or not, Cuba maintains a strong connection to Christianity but maybe not surprisingly, also Santeria, which means “worship of saints”. Many claim that Santeria is a mix of West African beliefs and Roman Catholicism while others claim, as is often the case when something is misunderstood, that it’s a type of voodoo.

The price for our Casa was to be around $30.00 a night for a studio apartment with a private entrance, comfortable bed, a large bathroom and a tiled balcony overlooking the Port of Havana where all the large ships came in. Our hosts were incredibly gracias and over the course of our time there they felt more and more like family. A year after our trip we still stay in touch on WhatsApp and through Facebook.

The first day we arrived, the power was out. The previous evening a terrible storm had hit Havana with a rare tornado touching down. The storm killed 4 and injured 195. Our place wasn’t directly hit and was only impacted by lack of power. We decided to quickly check in and run down to catch the last ferry over to Old Town Havana which still had power and hoped by the time we got back maybe we’d have power. We brought our phone chargers. You don’t need a power adapter in Cuba if you’re from the United States.

The streets of Old Town were busy when we arrived. Cruise ships from the U.S. were still permitted at that time, so the streets were full of tourists. 

Grifters trying to get tourists to spend their money inundated us with one offer after another. Many restaurants even have someone outside trying to steer you inside. The pressure and competition you feel from those out to hustle can be overwhelming at first. You get a sense the hustle is probably justified. Personally, I can both respect the hustle and also be turned away from it. It seems to be part of the human condition where we want to both help while simultaneously avoiding the desperation we perceive from others. It gives us that plausible deniability.  Our hosts already advised us to avoid buying certain items like cigars off the street since they were probably counterfeit. Maintaining the discipline to simply say ‘no’ in a kind way, while still giving the respect of eye contact, is an art form. You’d think all of this would make for a bad experience but the opposite was true. It gave us a sense of appreciation and gratitude.

Although we were hungry we avoided eating out that first night because our hosts wanted to make us a dinner. Normally they charged an extra fee for dinner but waved it because they felt bad the power was out. Sensing this was important to them, we promised to return before sundown. A taxi took us back to our casa for about $6.00. Unfortunately the power was still out. The balcony was set up with candles and a small table. Our meals were amazing. My plate had included a large lobster tail, while Angela’s had ample vegetables, rice, salad and a Cuban style fish which I inherited since she is mostly vegetarian. It was humbling to know that while we had the minor inconvenience of no power that many people, just a few miles away, lost everything the night before. Our hosts were gracious and seemed very concerned that we might be upset because of the lack of power no matter how much we assured them we were fine. We fell asleep easily even though a business below our balcony had a generator running most of the night.

The next morning, with the power still out, our hosts amazing mother brought us breakfast with fresh squeezed juices, exotic fresh fruits, simple meats and eggs, as she did every morning during our stay. The coffee there was perfect and bottomless. They were surprised we consumed as much coffee as we did. By the end of our stay they just kept bringing it without much question. Angie would drink mine if I didn’t hold onto it. Apparently she thinks, because I drink mine slow, that it somehow means I don’t want it.

After taking the ferry over again and spending a second full day in Old Town the power had been restored by the time we got back that evening. For our remaining stay, our excellent hosts filled all our needs. They even arranged for a driver they knew and trusted when requested. 


One day he took us to a beach about 40 minutes east of Havana called Playa Santa Maria del Mar. It’s a beautiful beach that lacks the big crowds you’d find at other similar beaches around the world. After a light lunch, a few hours of fun in the sun and some minor shopping at a few merchandise stands, our driver came back at the exact time he said he would. We asked if he had time to take us the long way home to possibly experience some sights we’d otherwise never get a chance to see. We ended up at Parque Lenin. A beautiful park that also happens to have a huge Vladimir Lenin monument created by a famous Soviet sculptor known for his ‘Soviet Realist’ style named Lev Kerbel. 

It was interesting insight into how many Cubans still believe in the ideology Castro carefully had cultivated during his tenure. Our driver didn’t speak much English. The Lenin statue wasn’t what I expected when I asked him, through Google Translate, if he could show us the real Cuba. As an American, it's somewhat disconcerting to see a momument of someone still revered in a country only 90 miles away from another country where he's so reviled.  It was a reminder that the Soviet Union and communist ideology will always be a part of the real Cuba. No matter what happens in the future the echoes from the cold war can never be erased, nor should they. It's an undeniable part of history.


Ironically there's another Parque Lennon in Havana. There you can get a picture sitting next to bronze statue of John Lennon on a park bench but unfortunately we never made it there on this trip. I suspect if I had specifically asked our driver to take us to Park Lennon that there was a better than 50/50 chance we would have still ended up at the one with Vladimir instead of John... and I'm ok with that.


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Havana Daydreaming

For me, travel is not only about the destination but it’s also about the people. Cuba, and more specifically Havana, has its own identity. It is its own museum. If it were an American, it would have its own social security number. There’s a rhythm and a vibe that feeds off its people and the people in turn feed off the city. The energy there isn’t necessarily perfect but there’s often a dark side to everything and Havana is no different. I would feel a profound sense of disappointment if the city weren’t honest and honesty is what Havana does best. It doesn’t hide from what it is, what it isn’t and what it possible could become. It’s not just a look down memory lane. For the first time in 40+ years there’s a new spirit being focused towards the future. It’s a proud city. It stands defiant in spite of what the mighty America and Cuba’s own communist regime have thrown at it. It still stands in spite of every literal and figurative storm that’s ever tried to destroy it. When the day comes that Havana becomes freer from restrictive policies and geopolitical control, expect its citizens to rise up to the challenge. Its 2.1 million citizens seem to be developing a clearer vision and direction of where they want to go and I’m sure they’ll be taking Havana and the entire Country along with them.

I for one am torn between wanting it to stay the same for my own selfish reasons and wanting to see the city and its people be exactly what they’re capable of becoming. Right now, when you walk down the main promenade along the Caribbean Sea, called The Malecón, you can’t help but notice the vacant dilapidated buildings. In most other major cities in the world this would be prime real estate filled with major hotels, upscale boutiques, restaurants and coffee shops. Yet this isn’t where the action is. Hardly anything along the promenade in Old Town, or the immediate neighborhoods headed west, is anywhere you’d want to check out. The Caribbean itself is the only real draw. For that reason alone, there’s something to be said for walking along the Malecón at sunset and watching the waters batter the storm wall while puffing on a genuine Cuban cigar. The history of Havana is a complicated one. The Cuban people who fled Cuba during the revolution, as well as many Americans who were forced to leave, had their properties confiscated. It’s a sore point between the US and Cuba. It seems to prevent relations from ever being normalized. Those who felt forced to flee, still lay claim to those confiscated properties. I can’t help but wonder looking at all the vacant properties what motivates the Cuban Government today to not try something new. There has to be a solution. The jobs alone that would be created from improvements would be astounding. There’s still a divide in Cuba between the have and the have nots so its not the preservation of perceived communism. The monthly stipend the Government provides doesn’t cut it for many. Moving forward may be a daunting task for the government but they probably can no longer go backwards now that the genie has been let out of the bottle. The times they are a changing… whether Cuba is ready or not.

New privately owned restaurants are springing up in special designated districts. Tattoo shops are popping up complete with entrepreneurial tattooists sporting Mohawks. I know, because we got tattoos to prove it. There are numerous options of art exhibits and dance companies to explore. Live rock music dances off 100-year-old Spanish architecture. The boundaries of freedom of expression are being experimented with in documentaries and editorial cartoons. The expanding middle class, now able to travel more freely because they now have the means to do so, are gaining business momentum in the world outside. Miami fashion trends now trickle into Havana more each day. It’s clear the city is slowly coming back to life. The transformation, now post Castro brothers regime, seems to have a life of its own. The current powers that be are still by all accounts, trying to find a way forward. Hopefully there are enough leaders that truly have the people’s interest at heart. 

On one of our days we visited an oncology hospital. Working as an oncology nurse, Angela has developed a passion and curiosity regarding medicine around the globe. In this area Cuba is yet again considered special. Its doctors are notoriously some of the best trained. The hospital we went to was old. The bathroom in the lobby felt like using it might actually put you in the hospital. The equipment they had to work seemed sub par and yet their quality of care is among the best in the world. It’s a paradox they have the success there that they do. The doctors make less than the taxi driver who drove us to the hospital. Cuban doctors, many wanting from the time they were a child to follow in the footsteps of their idol and doctor Che Guava, are among Cuba’s best assets.  An agreement with Venezuela, called the “Oil for Doctors” program nets 100,000 barrels of much needed oil a day to run those American Cars. It’s also one of the reasons why America is currently reverting back to once again punishing Cuba with harsher sanctions. The U.S. takes the stance Cuba is supporting Venezuela when in reality, from their viewpoint, they have limited options. The people stuck in the middle are really who suffers with higher gas prices, which cripples an already poor economy. It’s easier to be supportive of sanctions if you don’t have to look the countries people in the eye. A Cuba with less oil is a Cuba without some of those amazing American cars running the roads. What other country will step up give away oil for lending its doctors and simply training its medical community?

Cuba is starting to stretch its capitalistic muscle but they also seem stuck in a damned if they do and damned if they don’t situation. If Cuba is to find a way out from where they are it will take significant help from the outside world and patience. If that happens, will Cuba still be the same Cuba we visited? It may be only 90 miles from the United States but it’s still light years away from most things you know.

ill

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

NYC: History Matters

In the West Village you can find a street that gone through many ups and downs over the years – Bleecker Street. Parts of the Street also sit in NoHo and the Bowery.

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History Matters

New York City

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

A Little Bit of Brooklyn

 

Headed back up to NYC for a short trip. The weather forecast for Mid- March promised to be only jacket weather. Angela’s son was coming along on this trip and we planned on hitting a Knicks game. We booked an AirBnb in Brooklyn in the Flatbush neighborhood in-between Prospect Park South and actual Prospect Park. It put us a block from the Parade Grounds as well and only a few blocks away from the Parkside subway station.For myself, since we usually stayed in the Upper East Side, I was excited about gaining a new perspective on the Big Apple.

Until this trip, all I knew of Flatbush came from a so-so low budget cult classic film from the 1970’s called the Lords of Flatbush. The movie was set in the 1950’s. The only reason I saved some memory in my head about such a movie is some trivia about Stallone and Richard Gere not getting along during the filming that resulted in Gere getting fired. Gere never appears in the finished film and to this day the actors dislike each other. Some useless knowledge I suppose but I thought it was an interesting piece of Hollywood history. Because of this odd bit of trivia and general knowledge from the film, I thought Flatbush must be a special place. Oozing history, it was originally settled during the Dutch era in 1651 under the name Midwoud (or Midwood). Today Flatbush is coming close to enjoying some of the renaissance and modernization that is going on throughout the borough of Brooklyn. Critics would call it gentrification. Although most of the growth is on the other side of Prospect Park, Flatbush is poised to make a big splash in the future. Large Victorian styled homes in Prospect Park South sat just a few blocks from where we stayed. The neighborhood is as diverse culturally as it is economically. Unfortunately, if gentrification gets its way, the area would likely lose some of the edge that makes it special and gives it it’s own personality.

Not far from where we were staying, albeit on the other side of Prospect Park, there’s Seventh Avenue and the neighborhood known as Park Slope. After unpacking, we headed there to find some authentic Brooklyn grub. The area is littered with restaurants and stores like the one we discovered called the Purity Diner. Having been established in 1929, the same year the stock market collapsed and the Great Depression began, it has a long history. The fact that it managed to survive starting up during the worst economic downturn in history and continues on all the way through to this day is in and of itself a major testament to the legacy of the diner. To me, that history is what makes it special. The diner is a survivor. 

The food at Purity is standard diner food. Breakfast is served all day along with solid burgers matched with decent fries. Nothing fancy but still pretty good and more important, it feels authentic. The service, once they found out we had never been there and were from out of town, was impeccable. We actually went there twice during our trip and on our second visit we needed to surprise Angela, since it just happened to be her birthday. Some how the staff managed to find a candle and brought out some very chocolate cake on the down low when she wasn’t paying attention. The kindly insisted the desert on the house. If we lived in Brooklyn I’m pretty sure we’d make the diner a regular stop. It’s simple, affordable and the staff makes you feel welcome. At least, they did that night.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

The Garden

Back in Pittsburgh, we don’t have a professional Basketball team, only college ball. Hockey, takes up the schedule at our local Arena. So at times, when we’ve gone out of town, we’ve tried to see a few games when we’re able. I had never been to Madison Square Garden but I knew I needed to go. The current version of the Garden opened up in 1968. There were three other versions in two other locations that bared the same name dating back to 1879. This version is the oldest major sporting facility in the city. It’s also the oldest hockey arena in the National Hockey League. The Rangers won the Stanley Cup there in 1994 and the Knicks won the NBA Finals in 1970 and 1973. Basketball Hall of famers Patrick Ewing and Bill Bradley (also known as former Senator and Presidential contender Bill Bradley) played there as well as NHL Hall of Famer Mark Messier.

The building itself feels like a bygone era. The biggest bands in the world have played here. Built above Penn Station, with minimum interference to the train schedule, it’s one of the most expensive sporting venues ever built. Walking in for the first time you can sense the history. 40 years ago when it was built it had the largest steel cable suspension roof in America and maybe the world. There are even two entire steel framed floors built above the steel cable suspension roof. The entire building is still an engineering marvel to this day. 

The Knicks lost the game that day but we still visited one of the most important arenas in the world so it felt like a win to us.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Garment District

The Knicks loss made us hungry so not far from the Garden we found the Tick Tock Diner nestled away at the bottom end of the Garment District. The food was adequate but the place was very bright and colorful. It had a good vibe. It was what we needed at the exact time.

While sitting in the diner I discovered the Bickford’s Building, or at least one of them, right across the street. Today it houses a pizza shop. Bickford’s luncheonettes were popular from about 1922 to the early 1950’s. They were a huge part of American Culture during that time period. Frequented often by the likes of Jack Kerouac, Allen Ginsberg and Woody Allen. The mood set in these often all night eateries found its way into many literary works by some of the greatest minds of the beatnik generation. Fortunately the buildings façade was exposed at the Bickford’s on 8thand 34thin 2000 or else I never would have noticed or therefore researched the history.

From the Tick Tock we went to check out B & H Photo. It’s like the Supermarket of photography stores. Founded in 1973, it’s incredibly massive. Whatever you need in photography, they’ll have it. We were able to find a decent used lens for Angela’s camera. 

Just outside of B & H we were able to get an amazing shot of one of the newer NYC skyscrapers, Hudson Yards. Not only is it the 4thtallest building in NYC but it also has the highest outdoor observation deck in the western hemisphere at 1100 feet. Amazingly, it cantilevers straight out from the building. You’ll find that “thrill ride” on the 101stfloor. 



New York’s Garment District is named so because of its relationship with the world’s fashion industry. Home to well-known designers and major labels there’s maybe nowhere else it’s equal besides Paris, Milan or Hong Kong. While most of the manufacturing has now gone overseas so that American designers can stay competitive, NYC has created zoning districts so that the remaining manufacturing can enjoy more affordable rents. 9 Billion in fashion sales annually make New York the king of fashion in the United States. A role the city won’t be giving up anytime soon, nor should it. It’s done its job very well.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Down on Bleecker Street

In the West Village you can find a street that gone through many ups and downs over the years – Bleecker Street. Parts of the Street also sit in NoHo and the Bowery. Once home to such notables like John Belushi, Robert De Niro and Alicia Keys it’s managing to make a comeback. At one time it was one of the hippest 5 block streets in New York. Clubs like the CBGB (closed in 2006) and Café Wha?, where folks like Hendrix, Dylan and Springsteen started their careers once dotted the landscape. Lenny Bruce was famously arrested at Café Wha? in 1964 on obscenity charges. When Marvels Dr. Strange comics began in the mid 60’s, he lived at 177A Bleecker Street. Simon and Garfunkel wrote a song called Bleecker Street. So then something happened. It became too hip. Everyone wanted a piece of Bleecker Street. Higher end stores like Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors moved in. Over commercialization helped it lose its coolness. What made it special… was gone.

Up until 2018 the street was dotted with vacant buildings still looking for that high-end rent but no one was biting. Many owners decided to sell to recoup losses, which let new developers move in who could re-think the historic street. The changes seem to have worked out in the neighborhoods favor. A company called Brookfield Properties came in and bought up a bunch of properties. So far they’ve seemed to be able to slowly bring back that eclectic vibe it once had. It has yet to make it all the way back to the coolness, edginess of the 60’s and 70’s but it appears to hopefully be on the right track. 

Bleecker Street has suffered through darker times in the past as well. Open prostitution and drug addiction chased a lot of potential customers away. So, sometimes it’s a fine line between edginess and darkness. Simon and Garfunkles song by the same name seems to capture that paradox better than I could. Written in a different era that I was too young to participate in.

Fog's rollin' in off the East River bank
Like a shroud it covers Bleecker Street
Fills the alleys where men sleep
Lies the shepherd from the sheep
Voices leaking from a sad cafe
Smiling faces try to understand
I saw a shadow touch a shadow's hand
On Bleecker Street
A poet reads his crooked rhyme
Holy, holy is his sacrament
Thirty dollars pays your rent
On Bleecker Street
I heard a church bell softly chime
In a melody sustainin'
It's a long road to Cainan
On Bleecker Street

~ Paul Simon

Today Café Wha? still provides solid music entertainment. Retail has rediscovered the street and now has a more chic feel. At some point I’ll hopefully make my way back to the West Village. I’m anxious to check in on Bleecker Street in the near future to see if its ongoing metamorphosis can bring back the soul of a neighborhood. 

NYC: A Day at the Met

Although there are many museums in NYC that you should visit, if you miss visiting the Met, that might be criminal.

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New York City

The Met (August 2018)

Temple of Denur

New York City

The Met

 

You shouldn’t really visit New York City without visiting the Metropolitan Museum of Art on 5thAve at about the mid-point of Central park. It’s an amazing institution that dates back to 1870 when it was founded. Being the largest museum in the United States it's also the 4thmost visited in the world. The museum is divided into 17 departments. It sports a large permanent collection and also holds numerous special shows and exhibits. It's also a great online source for history buffs. Visit www.metmuseum.org to find lots of great things to explore.

 

When we were there the special exhibition was the Heavenly Bodies show, which mixed fashion and religion. It went on to become the most visited exhibition in the history of the Met with over 1.6 million people cramming through the doors to see the artistic, fashionable show.

 

Personally, I was very fond of the Egyptian and Southeastern Asian collections. I had also never seen a Picasso in person before. The Met has numerous Picasso’s on display in its extensive art collection as well as so many other famous artists that it feels like you could spend days just in the department where most of the paintings are on display.

 

Although there are many museums in NYC that you should also visit, you cannot miss visiting the Met if you want to say you went Museum hopping. That would be criminal.

Ancient Egypt

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Southeast Asia

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Heavenly Bodies

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Pablo Picasso

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Paul Cadmus - 7 Deadly Sins

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Other Artist Paintings

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Statues/ Sculpture

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Arms/ Armory

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero