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Extremism in America

When the plot to kidnap the sitting Governor of Michigan by a group called the Wolverine Watchmen was uncovered, some of us probably asked ourselves, “Is this really happening?” I know I did

Tom Lonero
11/09/2020

EXTREMISM IN AMERICA

Why whats going on today is unlike anything in our lifetime

PHOTOS BY: Thomas Lonero

When the plot to kidnap the sitting Governor of Michigan by a group called the Wolverine Watchmen was uncovered, some of us probably asked ourselves, “Is this really happening?” I know I did. The group was deemed dangerous enough for the FBI to infiltrate. Although it’s believed the group had only formed this year, it’s widely known that many of the members had been visible participants in the militia movement in Michigan for years, if not decades. Some members have also been tied to the Boogaloo movement, AKA the Boogaloo Bois.

They are a group that doesn’t claim any organizational structure but they sure seem to have all the makings of an organization. So far they’ve been involved with:

·      Plotting to kidnap or kill a sitting Governor.

·      Directly inciting Minneapolis riots after the death of George Floyd. A member shot up the police precinct that incited mobs to later loot and burn it. He was arrested in Texas.

·      Numerous members have been arrested of Federal gun charges.

·      One Michigan man died in a shootout when they attempted to arrest him. It’s alleged he also had white separatist ties.

·      A police officer was killed in Oakland CA by a member who was also an active duty Air Force Staff Sergeant. Contact between the Sergeant and members nationwide were said to include plans to attack other law enforcement officers and government facilities.

·      Three Boogaloo members were arrested in Las Vegas on domestic terrorism charges after looking to take advantage of Black Lives Matter (BLM) protests. They made bombs they intended to detonate at protests. All three were either current reservists or recently became ex-military.

·      Armed members have stormed the State Capitals in Michigan and North Carolina as well as the Federal Courthouse in Portland Oregon demanding States open back up. Other States like Kentucky, Pennsylvania and New York have experienced similar armed events at government buildings.

·      A Maryland man was shot and killed by police during a no knock warrant for illegal firearm possession, His family insists he was not an extremist but members of the Boogaloo movement have claimed him as their own. On-line social media posts threaten a day a reckoning for his killing. His own social media posts indicate a connection.

·      At least two members of the movement attempted to join Hamas. Their plan was to raise funds to support the movement. They are now charged with attempting to provide material support to a designated foreign terror organization. They also were involved with the riots in Minneapolis. It’s alleged they belong to a sub-group of the Boogaloo movement called the “Boojahideen”. The term “White Jihad” has been used in social platforms to push their extremist rhetoric.

So who are the Boogaloo Bois? According to them, they are individuals who seek to bring about a second American Civil War they call the “Boogaloo”. Their enemy is the Federal government and left wing political opponents, which is why their reported involvement and support of a left wing organization like the BLM movement, is suspect.

The unorganized, seemingly better organized than we are made to think group, claim they are not built on racist ideology. Yet numerous members use racist and bigoted language along multiple social media platforms that implies there is a hidden agenda. Experts on militias and domestic terrorism point out the ‘Boogaloo’ started as a racist (1) meme. Yes, some members are minorities. The only requirement to join appears to be a commitment to help facilitate the end of the Federal Government no matter what color one may be. How can the two facts coincide?

Those who call themselves Boogaloo come from groups like the Three Percenters, Oath Keepers, Proud Boys, the Michigan Militia or similar groups. They can be neo-Nazis, black militants and members of the KKK, as long as they leave that ideology at the door and remember the main requirement is the defeat of the Federal Government and any leftist influence. For that reason they may be more of an ideology. They seem to be building an alliance of sorts through online resources. Ultimately, organization of the Boogaloo Bois may prove inevitable. Some members have already been called leaders.

According to the Southern Poverty Law Center, the Oath Keepers are believed to have a (2) membership around 25-35 thousand. If certain players were able to coordinate efforts between multiple groups then all of a sudden you could be looking at between 100-200 thousand members of fringe groups working together on some level. The Oath Keepers claim the most active duty Police, Military and First Responders. Their ability to work from the inside could make them a threat. That doesn’t mean all members of other groups actively participate or engage with the Boogaloo movement, but most members of other groups consider themselves anti-government so collaboration and cooperation is happening on some level. For comparison, National Guard Troops number around 450,000. Police number between 600-700 thousand. What side are the active duty police or military that pledged to a particular group? The numbers mean that within the US we have a private army splintered into different factions that are 25% the size of law enforcement and military. At this time not all groups get along. Some groups have accused the Oath Keepers of (3) not being racist enough.

With significant Boogaloos espousing racist ideology how can they claim they support BLM?  The simple answer is they don’t. They support anti-police. There’s a difference. Their intent is to cause mayhem. It’s not to bring about better sociological reforms for the black community. Consider the story of the Trojan horse. Images of fires burning and precincts destroyed take away sympathy from the white community. There’s a video online of the first major building attacked in Minneapolis during the protests. It was an Advance Autoparts store that was looted and burned to the ground, but first a white man with a gas mask, now referred to as “umbrella man”, is seen busting out all the windows. He avoided real participation in the BLM protest except for this solo event. Protesters actually confronted the man to ask him to stop his actions, but instead he became aggressive toward them. Breaking the windows absolutely worked in inciting an already angry mob.

It’s a simple but effective playbook. Incite; use the protest platform. Pass blame while taking no blame. What’s unclear is why BLM would ever consider an alliance. It should be clear that while both movements are anti-government that the objectives are completely different. Since the Bois are at best a loosely organized movement, it’s possibly only low level members get involved thinking they are there as actual support. It’s easier to pitch an idea if you believe it. There’s plenty of online racist rhetoric leading up to any protest that indicates there’s another piece to their involvement though. The enemy of my enemy is my friend. It’s interesting that when Boogaloos have been permitted to participate where there’s also been rioting, there have been no recorded confrontation between the provocateurs and the Boogaloos who claim they are there to protect the event. Confrontations recorded have only been with protesters or protest organizers. It seems suspicious.

In a way, the BLM Movement has been a gift to White Nationalists. Not only does it appear the media, protesters and the public are being manipulated. It’s become a real recruitment opportunity. If you pretend on one hand to help the BLM movement it becomes easier to recruit police and military with the other hand or with a different group.

The psychology behind mob mentality and the manipulation of large crowds is well studied going back over a hundred years by such notables as Gustav Le Bon, Sigmund Freud and more recently Stephen Reicher. It doesn’t take much thought or planning to incite a mob that feels they have legitimate grievances. Organizers can lose control very quickly if they do not keep protesters moving and engaged with productive dialog. It’s no accident that many of the bad actors wait till after the organizers end their participation before they then move the crowds off into a different direction. There’s a scene in the movie Animal House where the late actor Doug Kenny (who’s playing the character Stork) steals the baton at the parade from the bandleader to divert the band into a alley that dead ends. It’s a scene that pokes fun at how easy it is to control a crowd.  Controlling a really angry crowd is even easier. A small group with a different agenda can easily pit main protagonists against their main rival. It just takes a nudge like breaking windows at an Advance Autoparts. The Bois and other groups may be playing both sides against each other. Although some groups have minority members, they can never be equals in any White Nationalist movement if their main objective of bringing down the government is realized. With vast numbers of the Bois having ties to Neo-Nazi groups and Militias that only accept White Nationalists, rest assured the true nature of the movement isn’t to help the BLM movement. Bringing down the government may be their first priority but going back to a white separatist country is the ultimate objective for many militia members.  

Throughout history, the other side has infiltrated protests ever since there were protests. Kings and Queens mastered crowd manipulation long ago by placing agents in among the crowds to focus the attention of the crowd elsewhere. (4) Gustave Le Bon, considered a foremost expert in crowd and herd behavior, believed that a collective mind would always emerge due to a crowd’s organization. If you can change the mood of a crowd with simple actions like angry words and damaging of property then the crowd becomes subject to manipulation from those trying to facilitate an often different agenda.

Violent mobs turn the support of sympathizers away from protesters and their agendas. When businesses get burned down and looted, then it’s easier to justify bringing in all the kings men like the police or even the National Guard. While many still sympathize over the original reason the protest started in the first place, it’s easier now to turn a blind eye. Who will the average person sympathize with? The storeowner who lost everything or the mob who burned down the business? A single person can affect and instigate a crowd. In turn that affects the police, news media and those at home watching it on CNN. It’s a militia recruiter’s dream.

Photo: Angela Erdmann

Black Lives Matter Protests, June 1st, 2020

The Rise of the Militia’s

In order to understand where we are today we have to go back a few decades to see where most of this began.

Modern day militias and movements like “Boogaloo” started to become a legitimate threat soon after two big events; one being an 11-day siege at Ruby Ridge in Idaho in late 1992 and the other being a 51-day siege on the Branch Davidian complex in Waco, Texas in early 1993.

At Ruby Ridge, US Marshalls had shown up at the residence of Randy Weaver and his family to serve a bench warrant against him for not showing up for a hearing on firearms charges. Weaver said he had been told three different dates and had become afraid there was a conspiracy against him. He refused to surrender to authorities. During the authorities reconnaissance of the property and prior to attempting to serve the warrant, Weaver’s 14-year-old son along with a Deputy, were killed in a shootout.  Weaver’s wife was later killed by sniper fire. Eventually the standoff was resolved and the remaining family members surrendered. In court the Federal Government attempted to press first-degree murder charges on Weaver and one of his associates who had been in the original shootout with Weavers deceased son. The courts disagreed and acquitted everyone on all charges except Weavers original charge of missing his court date. He did 18-months in jail and paid a 10,000 dollar fine.

Less than six months later the FBI laid siege on the Branch Davidian complex in Waco, Texas that resulted in the deaths of 86 Branch Davidians and 4 ATF agents. Originally the FBI was attempting to execute a warrant over sexual abuse and illegal firearms allegations. Part of the reason the storming of the compound was authorized by then Attorney General Janet Reno was a rumor, which was being spread throughout the FBI, that Militia Groups were on their way to Waco to either help the Davidians or go after the Davidians. That rumor never materialized. The FBI had also reported to Reno, who had only become Attorney General 10 days after the siege had started, that kids were being abused inside the compound even though that allegation was never fully proven. Reno later expressed regret for giving the order to storm the compound.

Over the next two years, Militia recruitment would skyrocket.

Oklahoma City Bombing Memorial

Just a tiny moment in time

 

On April 19th, 1995 at 9:01 I honestly couldn't tell you what I was doing or where I was. It’s possible I was sleeping. My view of the world at that time was fairly naive. MTV was still a thing. Alternative Rock ruled the airwaves. Friends, Seinfeld, Roseanne and the X-files were top shows. San Francisco had won its 5th Super Bowl. Michael Jordan came out of retirement after his baseball hiatus. Windows 95 was released, DVD's became a thing and E-bay had just started. Boris Yeltsin, John Major and Bill Clinton were world leaders. Technology was going through the roof it seemed but the world still appeared relatively normal. At this stage in my life my world was still small. I hadn't done much traveling and I was struggling with understanding who I was and where I was going. I had two very young daughters and had separated from my ex a few years earlier. She and I had moved on from each other and I had been relegated to a part time dad. I had a business I had been trying to make work, but it was failing. In truth, I wasn't in a good place in my life. What was about to happen would remind me that I had more to be grateful for than I realized. I don’t like that other peoples tragedies remind me I should be more grateful and yet there it is.

 

On April 19th, 1995 at 9:03 am, the world for the most part... changed for everyone. Even if we couldn't see the bigger picture at that time of the consequences of such an action, it still forever changed. The way the government did business and perceived threats changed. Laws changed. Our personal privacy changed. American eyes became a little wider open and the worldview of the United States was dramatically revised. Till this day, on April 19th at 9:02 am, church bells ring and people still stop what they are doing or pull over in their vehicles to give 168 seconds of silence.

 

Some of those people are survivors or maybe they actually lost loved ones in what is still the largest domestic terror event caused by an American citizen. At 9:02 am a massive bomb went off and decimated 1/3 of the Alfred P. Murray Federal Building in Oklahoma City. Around 90 minutes after the explosion Timothy J. McVeigh was pulled over for a traffic stop because his vehicle didn't have a license plate. In 2001 he was executed. 

Oklahoma City Bombing Memorial

Recruitment Needs Manipulation and Planning

Timothy McVeigh earned a Bronze Star for his service along the Kuwaiti border during the first Iraq war. His commanders suggested he could be a candidate for Green Beret training but McVeigh never followed through. After his military service, McVeigh spent significant time at gun shows and hanging out with militia groups in Michigan. Inspiration for how to carry out his attack came from a book called the (5) Turner Diaries. It’s a fictional dystopian novel about a white supremacist revolution in a future that overthrows the Government. It echoes the dogma embraced by today’s Militias. In the book, a truck bomb similar to the one McVeigh built is used for similar purposes.

White Nationalist groups have held the book sacred and the writer of the book, William Pierce, became the leader of the National Alliance, which at one time had been called the most dangerous and well-organized neo-Nazi group in U.S. History. After his death in 2002, the group splintered and lost significant members but around 2017, largely due to current political rhetoric, recruiting picked up and they now claim thousands who have shown up at their events and rallies. They too are Boogaloos.

The Turner Diaries also inspired Dylann Roof who murdered nine innocent black parishioners in cold blood in South Carolina in 2015. The hope was to start a race war. (6) It's claimed the book has inspired more than 200 murders.

The group that McVeigh had held in high regard, the National Alliance, had been around since 1974. In 1995 on April 19th at 9:02 am, their dreams had become realized with the blood of McVeigh's 168 victims, 19 of which were children. McVeigh later claimed that the FBI raid on both Ruby Ridge and the Branch Davidian complex in Texas served as the moment he decided to plan out the attack. He claimed both incidences were overreaching by the government. 

At 9:03 am, on that fateful morning, we became aware no one was safe and living was a daily reprieve. The naive notion that life was somehow fair or that racism and bigotry was mostly a thing of the past would come to light over the coming weeks as the motivations for McVeigh's heinous crime became apparent. After the attack, many who had followed in the same footprints McVeigh had walked in began to distance themselves from the militias and the rhetoric they had followed in cult like fashion. McVeigh, after all, looked exactly like many of them when they looked in the mirror. The wake up call was short lived. 9/11 came along and gave new reasons to hate and justify bigotry. It moved the needle away from the Oklahoma bombing as the largest terrorist attack on American soil but still holds the distinction of being the largest homegrown domestic terrorist attack. 9/11, to a degree, took away white America's concerns about their white neighbors and instead focused them on others who were culturally and religiously different. Governmental agencies will say they never stopped focusing on domestic terrorism, but the general publics attention span moved away from white America to anyone who resembled Middle Eastern descent... even if they just looked Middle Eastern. 9/11 helped bigotry and racism and militias grow, while McVeigh's act just over 6 years earlier, made many in the movement stop and question the roots that gave rise to a McVeigh.

The next big recruiting event, even bigger than 9/11, was the election of the first Black President of the United States, Barack Hussein Obama. The conspiracies leading up to the election and those that came after he was in office; like the conspiracy pushed by then citizen Trump, that Obama was not born in the United States fanned the flames of discontent. Recruitment rose dramatically throughout the White Nationalist community. Groups like the Oath Keepers who claim to be non-racist were born directly out of the election of Obama and the conspiracies surrounding him. That newly energized and growing White Nationalist movement is the same base that played a pivotal role in Trumps the narrow victory in 2016. It appears the right wing media acted as the inside man to push the conspiracies to an already angry ‘at home’ mob. Preparation for where we are now may have started as far back as Barack Obama’s first campaign as President.

9/11 World Trade Center Memorial

What makes today different?

In 2020, we find ourselves in a vastly different world than existed prior to April 19th, 1995, but the underlying disease of racism seems more prevalent now than back then. The groups today have only changed names not objectives.

My personal experience when I had visited the Oklahoma Memorial in 2010 was one of somber remembrance. The Gates of Time were striking in their poignant philosophy regarding the passage of time and the changes we experience in our lives. It reminds change can happen in the blink of an eye and that some change is far from good. The 168 empty chairs (19 of them child size) are heartbreaking. The names of over 600 survivors, inscribed in four granite tablets saved from the Alfred P. Murray Federal Building, is a reminder that even in the face of great evil and pain we somehow still manage to survive and move on. 

In the Turner Diaries, anyone who was a "race traitor" would be marked for planned mass murder the neo-Nazi's believed would happen after they defeated the American Government. Yes, there are militia members and Boogaloo Bois who view anyone who speaks against them out as race traitors. They believe those who continue to speak out will one day be pulled out of their homes and dragged out into the street on a day of reckoning they refer to as the ‘Day of the Rope’ just as it happened in the Turner Diaries.

Since 2017 the (7) National Alliance neo-Nazi group are actively once again recruiting and growing. It’s been energized and organized behind new leadership. Many forget it was the same group McVeigh aspired to be a part of. Many forget McVeigh and Terry Nichols hung out with militias in Michigan just like the Wolverine Watchmen. Sure, after Oklahoma many groups learned to not push or advertise racist agendas and today instead concentrate on their anti-government message but are they really much different than Pierce’s National Alliance? Groups like the Oath Keepers, Proud Boys, Boogaloo Bois, Three Percenters or even the Wolverine Watchmen are just reincarnations of past groups preaching similar antigovernment rhetoric. They follow similar pathways born out of dogma William Pierce preached. Now, with the Boogaloo ideology, they may have something that helps binds them together. They now also believe they have a man in the Whitehouse that supports them. Those two things are what make what we are seeing today unlike anything we’ve ever seen in our lifetime.

Something’s coming. We all feel it. The tension on the strings can only get so tight before it snaps. COVID contributes to the tension by putting financial stress on poorer white populations. In 2009, the mortgage crisis placed a similar financial burden on many Americans. Both time periods emboldened militias who spewed conspiracies that resulted in increased recruitment.

In 1995, I didn’t see Oklahoma City happening. In 2001, I didn’t see 9/11 happening. In 2020, how can we not see something big is about to happen? The Election is sure to be a catalyst for whatever is coming. The question then becomes: What, if anything, can we do to stop it?

Buenos Aires – A Vibrant Chaos of Calm

There are normal or black market money exchange houses in Buenos Aires and of course an ATM can exchange your money as well, albeit for a

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A VIBRANT CHAOS OF CALM

BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

El Ateneo Grand Splendid in Recoleta

There are normal or black market money exchange houses in Argentina and of course an ATM can exchange your money as well, albeit for a fairly high fee. The official rate you get at an official exchange isn’t as good as you will likely get at the “unofficial” cambio’s along Calle Florida which was right by our AirBnb in the San Nicolás neighborhood in the heart of Downtown Buenos Aires. Our AirBnB host who had graciously agreed to help us find an exchange, moved deftly through the crowds with us following closely. Having never been in Argentina it was dizzying to have just arrived and then move so quickly through the streets to an unknown destination with no time to take anything in. The first black market cambio's price (yes we’re vagabonds like that) didn’t sit well with our host. They wouldn’t exchange at the “blue” rate or the black market rate so we moved quickly onto the next cambio, which he felt had a more acceptable rate. He seemed to enjoy the negotiation and we took note how fortunate we were to have him as a host. A man that appeared to guard the door to the illegal exchange allowed us to enter after the price was agreed upon. Our host waited outside. Inside sat two men at a table with stacks of money in front of them and while I was busy briefly wondering how hard it would be for our families to get our bodies back to the States, they asked how much we wanted to exchange. So, keeping my voice steady, I gave them my hardest tough guy look and said "For now,I’d like to exchange three hundred U.S.". The men preferred hundred dollar bills over twenties to get the best rate for some reason. We obliged. After we exchanged I thanked the men and quickly exited. Our AirBnb host smiled and asked in perfect English if that was all we needed. After expressing some gratitude for him helping us we simply asked him to point us in the direction of the Obelisco de Buenos Aires so we could get our bearings. I had studied the area on maps enough before leaving the States and knew if we could make it to there, we’d be in good shape. I was confident we’d find some food along the way or close to there. I offered out host somewhat of a tip for helping us but he kindly refused so we shook hands and separated as Angie and I headed off into the concrete jungle of Buenos Aires officially now on our own.

Angie, having spent so much time in New York City, was excited to explore such a large unique South American city with a strong European vibe. The Obelisco was somewhat easy to find using Google maps but I still tried to not be so obvious with the phone and therefore draw unneeded attention by looking too touristy. Angela would occasionally frown at me for walking through the streets using the phone. At that point, I wasn’t sure who was most danger to me, Angela's laser looks or a hypothetical thief.

For whatever reason I get drawn to obelisks when we travel. I find it interesting in a Knights Templar/ Freemason kind of way that many cities around the world have erected numerous Egyptian styled obelisks. Some cities, like New York and London over a hundred years ago, even went so far as to actually import genuine ancient Obelisks from Egypt. Cleopatra’s Needle is a magnificent example of a piece of Egyptian antiquity that’s thousands of years old and yet sits humbly just behind the Metropolitan Museum of Fine Art in Central Park. You’d be surprised how many New Yorkers even don’t know it’s there. With all the conspiracy theories written about the obelisks, it's not unusual for me to seek them out. To me, they represent an ancient wisdom and if you've learned anything about me from any of my articles, you know I love and respect history and mystery.

Not far from the Plaza de la República where the Obelisco rose up above the busy late afternoon traffic, we wondered past several restaurant locations. Some even had some outdoor seating and music we found charming but the menus were not what we were looking for. After wondering around we settled on a place that caught our eye called Revire Brasas Bravas. Angela was kind enough to settle for a steakhouse although she’s mostly vegetarian. We were both famished at this point and just need to pick a place. She said there were enough things on the menu she could fill up on. The food was decent but the service was impeccable. Sitting down gave us a chance to breath and take it all in. We were finally able to simply enjoy our arrival to Buenos Aires. The rush from the Airport to get through the gates to find our driver who then rushed us to our AirBnb to meet our host who then rushed us to the cambio really didn’t give us time to feel like we had truly arrived. That feeling didn’t hit till we sat down to enjoy a calm, decent meal. That crazy initial introduction to the city was still perhaps the most honest. This was after all... Buenos Aires.

Obelisco de Buenos Aires

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

 


The Melting Pot












 

One may think exploring Buenos Aires would give you that New York City vibe, but in truth, it’s nothing like New York. That flippant expectation comes from a naïve American booking the trip. Namely me.

 

While financially, Argentina may struggle with higher than wanted unemployment numbers and a constantly fluctuating and unstable Argentinean Peso, it maintains a rich and inclusive heritage. At the turn of the 20th century almost half of the population in Buenos Aires were recent European immigrants who were attracted to the New World and what was then a stable and promising economy. More recently many immigrants or their descendants have returned to Europe in search of a better economy but what they leave behind is a country still rich in its heritage of art, architecture and ideas. In more recent years the United States has attempted to move to more Nationalistic America (i.e. Americans) first philosophy. We seem to have forgotten our immigration past and what made our country so rich in ideas, industry and art in the first place. That American melting pot produced a juggernaut of a Nation and yet today it’s dropped out of fashion. Argentina, and more specifically Buenos Aires, seems to have never forgotten that heritage. Instead they embrace it. I’m sure they have their own problems with bigotry and racism. I’m not sure any country is immune to that. Argentineans still seem to keep in mind they are a Nation of immigrants, like it happened only yesterday and not over a hundred years ago when immigration was at its peak. The United States has a shorter attention span it seems these days. The attacks of 9/11 caused a lot of that discourse, especially toward Arab communities, while conversely South American countries like Paraguay have embraced new Arab immigrants.

 

Culturally Buenos Aires just feels richer and more artistic than most cities I’ve been to in the US. Maybe it was just the newness of our experience. New York feels more purposeful and financially driven with much of the artistic expression of the 60’s, 70’s, 80’s and the early 90’s leaving when Giuliani and more recent politicians concentrated on reforms that sanitized the city. Sure bits of each city are still reflected in each other and in all cities, but while New York was a melting pot of immigrants and new ideas many decades in the past, Buenos Aires feels like that melting pot never stopped.

 

As we explored parts of the San Nicolás and Recoleta barrios we were struck by the architecture and the importance placed on art and space. You seemed to come across a park every couple blocks with ornate statues or monuments. Throughways, that probably were once streets, are now blocked off with posts and instead only allow foot traffic and maybe scooters or bikes. Outdoor umbrella tables dot the landscape of most throughways with restaurant patrons enjoying meals, a few beers and often some form of live music, usually of the Spanish variety.

 

Beautiful buildings like the Palace of Justice of the Argentine Nation built between 1905-1910, which houses the Argentinean Supreme Court, is an impressive example of the neoclassical style architecture brought over from Italy and France during its immigration boom years.

 

Across from the Supreme Court you’ll find a beautiful Jewish Synagogue called the Templo Libertad. Construction began in 1897 and wasn’t deemed complete until 1932. It is again a perfect example of the cities immigration boom. It’s an example of German styled synagogues that were commonly found throughout Germany prior to WWII. Unfortunately, the Nazi party destroyed many examples in Germany during the war so this example in particular, is an even more incredibly important survivor of a by gone era.

 

Another of our amazing finds, besides the numerous cafes serving endless cups of coffee, was the Al Antaneo Grand Splendid in Recoleta. My friend Sebastiaan, who was living in Chile at the time (Now lives in Spain) had suggested we needed to hunt it down. Not only is it one of the world’s largest bookstores but it was also named the world’s most beautiful bookstore by National Geographic. It’s real easy to understand why it would hold that distinction. Previously, for over a hundred years, the building was a magnificent theater that housed over a thousand seats. When it was converted in to bookstore the essence of the historic theater was maintained. Frescoes, painted a hundred years or so ago by the Argentinean-Italian artist Nazareno Orlandi, draw your eyes to the already ornate domed ceiling. The woodwork and the multi levels insure you can discover something new around every corner and nook and cranny. Angela and I love bookstores but unfortunately, and not surprising, the English section was very small… as it should be. We still loved exploring the volume of corridors of books. On the old stage you can find an expected café where one can enjoy a coffee and a pastry. Angela fell prey, as she often does, to the medical section while I simply took in the reason part of the name of the bookstore is “Splendid” because - it is indeed exactly that. 

 

On the walk back to our AirBnb from Recoleta we stopped for a small bite to eat and upon reaching the Obelisco we decided to once again take a range of pictures of the structure. At night the Obelisk takes on a different look with the lighting and the traffic moving around it. I think it made our exploration of the city and our overall experience that night seem even more surreal... or maybe we were just tired.

 

The next day we packed up and headed a little further out of Buenos Aires into what is a more country setting. A new driver picked us up to take us to the next part of our adventure where we planned to meet up with some new friends.

 

Along the way our driver showed us a few interesting sites like the Torre de los Inglesses, A.K.A. the Tower of the English, which sits in the Retiro neighborhood. Again, more melting pot architecture, this time with mid 19th century English influence. It was gifted to the English population of Buenos Aires by the English government in 1910 in remembrance of the 1810 revolution (although it didn't finish construction and open until 1916). 1910 was the year Argentina started its journey toward independent nation status. The 1910 centennial celebration, which the Tower was built for, was said to be one hell of a party. When you get a feel for the city and its people its easy to understand why any party they throw would be a great one.











PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Campana and Zárate

Dinner at Las Farolas de la Rivera in Zárate, Argentina with our friend Martîn

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

The six stages of eating blood sausage for the first time

1st Stage of eating blood sausage at Parrilla Los Leños Asador Criollo
2nd stage of eating blood sausage at Parrilla Los Leños Asador Criollo
3rd stage of eating blood sausage at Parrilla Los Leños Asador Criollo
4th stage of eating blood sausage at Parrilla Los Leños Asador Criollo
5th stage of eating blood sausage at Parrilla Los Leños Asador Criollo
6th Stage - Not realizing I've been pranked by some of my local Argentinean friends but they are talking in Spanish and laughing so I laugh too!

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann



Love and Friendship

 

We had an opportunity to visit an area over an hour outside the city and spend a few days among some new friends. We were so happy we took this detour.

 

One of the things I dislike about traveling is any missed opportunity to connect with people. So far I’d say we’ve been able to connect with people at about 75% of the locations we’ve visited. By connect, this means we still, to this day stay in contact. These are people that made an impact in our lives.

 

The area we visited was northeast of Argentina between the towns of Campana and Zárate. Getting outside the city gave us a different perspective. Both cities, although an hour away from the “Autonomous City of Buenos Aires” still sits within the “Province of Buenos Aires”. How the province itself is divided up is a bit complicated and a quick Google search on your own will explain it better than I ever could so I’m not going to attempt it. What I will tell you is that both Campana and Zárate have a total population just under 200,000 so it’s not exactly a rural part of Argentina. Since they are both port towns on the mighty Parana River they play a important vital rule in Argentinean industry. That’s doesn’t mean when compared to the Downtown area of Argentina that it absolutely doesn’t feel like you’re deep out in the farmlands of nowhere. The contrast is striking. In truth, you only have to go a short way from Campana or Zárate to reach ranches and farmland if you want to see plenty of cows or horses.

 

Yet another of the surprising things Argentina probably does better in today’s world than America does in today’s world (keeping the past out of this conversation) are cowboys or gauchos. While the gaucho’s prime may have been during the 1800’s and into the mid 1900’s they are still, to this very day, very visible throughout Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay and Southern Brazil. Argentinean cattle and meat production is top notch. That’s also where the legendary gaucho’s still play a vital role. The pride Argentineans have in their meat production shows up on menus from the tip of Patagonia to the northern reaches of Iguazu Falls.

 

While visiting our friends they decided to take us to an authentic parrilla, which is basically what we’d call a Bar-B-Q here in the States. If you look for a parrilla in a Google search in Argentina, numerous options pop up to show just how popular they are culturally to that country. The Parrilla they took us to was called Los Leños Asador Criollo just outside of Zárate. The options seemed to be meat or you could have some kind of meat. After some non-discussion, we all decided to get both. I felt a little bad for Angela who had to dig out something vegetarian from the meaty menu but she managed and didn’t complain at all. It was easy for both of us to understand the cultural significance of the parrilla once we were there and could take it all in. We were very happy to spend time and get to know some of the people we now call friends.

 

The parrilla served most items family style. All the meats were brought out on a hot plate and everyone got to choose what they wanted and in what portions. It was basically keto heaven if I had been doing keto, which I wasn’t. My philosophy on this trip was to just eat and enjoy. What I was not aware of was that our friends were willing to take advantage of my philosophy by ordering blood sausage, which they secretly suspected I wouldn’t like. They were willing to prank me just to see the look on my face. Of course they told Angela of their intentions which she promptly did not mention to me – until I was writing about the experience in this blog! Well, I tried to brave my first blood sausage experience but my face couldn’t keep secret what my taste buds were telling me. I managed to swallow whatever it was I put in my mouth and had to figure out how to cleanse my pallet after. All of which Angela managed to of course catch on film.

 

One of the greatest parts of the parrilla experience and in truth, the entire trip, was when we crammed seven people into a small compact car and no one complained even when our friends Andie and Sol had to share the hatchback area.. Instead they played Spanish pop music and all our hosts sang beautifully for our entire trip to and from the parrilla. I’m not sure I’ll ever forget that. It may be that one thing more than any other that will stay etched into my mind. It makes me yearn to go back to Argentina to spend more time with the amazing people we met and still remember fondly.

 

Eventually we met up with a completely different group on another day thanks to another friend we met named Martín. He picked out a very different restaurant in Zarate called Las Farolas de la Rivera. The place had a very hip authentic Spanish vibe. Although still considered a “bar-b-q” the menu included many other side dish options and some excellent fish options that I opted for. Again, the privilege of the company is what made the dinner amazing but I will say, the food and the service was excelente! 





Upon leaving the restaurant we found a few small venders selling goods in the adjacent courtyard. One of the things we became intrigued with, being the caffeine addicts we both were, was the yerba maté that appeared to be the national drink of South America if there was such a thing. At least it seemed that way in the circles we were traveling in. Martín was kind enough to help Angela pick out a traditional cup. which is sometimes made from a dried Calabash gourd. They also picked out the accompanying bombilla, which is basically a metal straw. The maté caffeine game in Argentina put our significant coffee game to shame. The maté is actually a bit higher in caffeine. You'll even see people carrying a thermos around with them so they can guarantee they always have plenty of maté. Latin Americans in general, all the way from Mexico to Argentina and Chile, really like their maté. 


 

Our trip into the heartland of Argentina was an honor and privilege. Getting to know and spend time with authentic new friends gave us a greater sense of family one may not normally get with the locals when traveling. It showed the importance the people of Argentina place on that ideal. Sure, we were maybe missing out a little on some of your 'normal' touristy attractions but what we gained was far more valuable - love and friendships. These are friends that if they ever made it to our neck of the woods, we’d try and drop everything to make sure they are as comfortable in our country as they made us feel in theirs.

Recoleta and Retiro

Retiro Barrio, Buenos Aires

PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero














A mad dash

 

It was finally time to head back to the Autonomous City of Buenos Aires. The plan was to spend more time in Recoleta before we departed for a time, but we’d be back. Our friend Juan, who I still chat with almost daily, promised to be our chauffeur. During the drive Juan played plenty of AC/DC. He doesn’t speak much English but he can sing the hell out of it if it’s AC/DC!

 

We had a short wish list for the day. Angie wanted to get a little shopping done and we were craving empanadas. Food came first.

 

Juan took us to a great little place that was super inexpensive with perfect empanadas called El Sanjuanino. The waiters were great and we were able to enjoy some quality time with our friend. The place wasn’t very big but it was packed. We were lucky to get the last table. You could tell that locals and tourists alike flocked to this place. You could detect a myriad of languages at the surrounding tables.  Juan mentioned he often took his family there. We recommend this place if you’re traveling, need an empanada and want to watch your money. Something about the atmosphere makes one feel more connected to the local culture.

After lunch, Juan took us to the true heart of Recoleta… Plaza Francia. Smaller plazas like Plaza San Martin de Tours spread out adjacent from the dominating Plaza Francia. Around that whole area you’ll find amazing trees like Australian Moreton Bay Fig trees and giant rubber trees. Some of the trees are hundreds of years old and the city takes great care to maintain and preserve them. The area also boasts a cultural center, restaurants, stores and a peaceful atmosphere.

 

On the weekends the Plaza hosts a large flea market with tons of vendors selling numerous wares like jewelry, carvings, paintings and leather works. Music surrounds you. Juan and I spend some time following Angela as she hunted; I mean "shopped" the market looking for some souvenirs or other items that might have caught her eye. The plaza was beautiful and the market was vast but we didn’t have a lot of time to explore. We’d have some time at a later point to revisit the Feria de Recoleta.

 

Before we came to our final destination, Juan gave a quick stop to show us the Palace de Glace, which has been a National Monument since 2004 and an important part of Argentina’s cultural heritage. Over the last hundred years it’s been a lot of things from an ice skating rink to a dance hall. Today it’s run by the National Office of Fine Arts and holds numerous exhibitions. When we were there it was undergoing renovations.

 

Our mad dash for the day ended once we pulled into the ferry terminal to board the Buquebus. Juan helped us with minimal luggage and we shook hands and hugged before we set off to our next destination but not before we made arrangements to meet up with Juan at another point in time.

 

Making our way through the terminal and boarding our Ferry was fairly painless. We did have to stand in line for a short while to get our boarding pass but once the boarding started we simply herded like cattle onto the ferry and were set. Argentineans are very adept at herding cattle.

 

The ferry was incredibly large and travels at over 50 knots. It’s among the fastest in the world. We had splurged and purchased 1st class seating for this leg of the journey, which was a cool and unique experience. The few extra perks made a difference and gave us time to relax and take a breather. The extra cost was nominal. I think I paid maybe 40 or 50 bucks more a ticket. There were excellent food options and they served perfect coffee. For us this was a luxury on a trip where we typically watched what we spent. Once the ferry departs you find yourself floating across the massive Río de la Plata, which is the worlds largest river estuary.  Upon first glance you might think you’re on the Atlantic Ocean except the water under you is mostly freshwater with a saltwater mix. Across the massive river is the country of Uruguay, our next stop. We would arrive in Montevideo in about two and half hours.



Thomas Lonero, Author

Date of Trip - November 2019