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Extremism in America

When the plot to kidnap the sitting Governor of Michigan by a group called the Wolverine Watchmen was uncovered, some of us probably asked ourselves, “Is this really happening?” I know I did

Tom Lonero
11/09/2020

EXTREMISM IN AMERICA

Why whats going on today is unlike anything in our lifetime

PHOTOS BY: Thomas Lonero

When the plot to kidnap the sitting Governor of Michigan by a group called the Wolverine Watchmen was uncovered, some of us probably asked ourselves, “Is this really happening?” I know I did. The group was deemed dangerous enough for the FBI to infiltrate. Although it’s believed the group had only formed this year, it’s widely known that many of the members had been visible participants in the militia movement in Michigan for years, if not decades. Some members have also been tied to the Boogaloo movement, AKA the Boogaloo Bois.

They are a group that doesn’t claim any organizational structure but they sure seem to have all the makings of an organization. So far they’ve been involved with:

·      Plotting to kidnap or kill a sitting Governor.

·      Directly inciting Minneapolis riots after the death of George Floyd. A member shot up the police precinct that incited mobs to later loot and burn it. He was arrested in Texas.

·      Numerous members have been arrested of Federal gun charges.

·      One Michigan man died in a shootout when they attempted to arrest him. It’s alleged he also had white separatist ties.

·      A police officer was killed in Oakland CA by a member who was also an active duty Air Force Staff Sergeant. Contact between the Sergeant and members nationwide were said to include plans to attack other law enforcement officers and government facilities.

·      Three Boogaloo members were arrested in Las Vegas on domestic terrorism charges after looking to take advantage of Black Lives Matter (BLM) protests. They made bombs they intended to detonate at protests. All three were either current reservists or recently became ex-military.

·      Armed members have stormed the State Capitals in Michigan and North Carolina as well as the Federal Courthouse in Portland Oregon demanding States open back up. Other States like Kentucky, Pennsylvania and New York have experienced similar armed events at government buildings.

·      A Maryland man was shot and killed by police during a no knock warrant for illegal firearm possession, His family insists he was not an extremist but members of the Boogaloo movement have claimed him as their own. On-line social media posts threaten a day a reckoning for his killing. His own social media posts indicate a connection.

·      At least two members of the movement attempted to join Hamas. Their plan was to raise funds to support the movement. They are now charged with attempting to provide material support to a designated foreign terror organization. They also were involved with the riots in Minneapolis. It’s alleged they belong to a sub-group of the Boogaloo movement called the “Boojahideen”. The term “White Jihad” has been used in social platforms to push their extremist rhetoric.

So who are the Boogaloo Bois? According to them, they are individuals who seek to bring about a second American Civil War they call the “Boogaloo”. Their enemy is the Federal government and left wing political opponents, which is why their reported involvement and support of a left wing organization like the BLM movement, is suspect.

The unorganized, seemingly better organized than we are made to think group, claim they are not built on racist ideology. Yet numerous members use racist and bigoted language along multiple social media platforms that implies there is a hidden agenda. Experts on militias and domestic terrorism point out the ‘Boogaloo’ started as a racist (1) meme. Yes, some members are minorities. The only requirement to join appears to be a commitment to help facilitate the end of the Federal Government no matter what color one may be. How can the two facts coincide?

Those who call themselves Boogaloo come from groups like the Three Percenters, Oath Keepers, Proud Boys, the Michigan Militia or similar groups. They can be neo-Nazis, black militants and members of the KKK, as long as they leave that ideology at the door and remember the main requirement is the defeat of the Federal Government and any leftist influence. For that reason they may be more of an ideology. They seem to be building an alliance of sorts through online resources. Ultimately, organization of the Boogaloo Bois may prove inevitable. Some members have already been called leaders.

According to the Southern Poverty Law Center, the Oath Keepers are believed to have a (2) membership around 25-35 thousand. If certain players were able to coordinate efforts between multiple groups then all of a sudden you could be looking at between 100-200 thousand members of fringe groups working together on some level. The Oath Keepers claim the most active duty Police, Military and First Responders. Their ability to work from the inside could make them a threat. That doesn’t mean all members of other groups actively participate or engage with the Boogaloo movement, but most members of other groups consider themselves anti-government so collaboration and cooperation is happening on some level. For comparison, National Guard Troops number around 450,000. Police number between 600-700 thousand. What side are the active duty police or military that pledged to a particular group? The numbers mean that within the US we have a private army splintered into different factions that are 25% the size of law enforcement and military. At this time not all groups get along. Some groups have accused the Oath Keepers of (3) not being racist enough.

With significant Boogaloos espousing racist ideology how can they claim they support BLM?  The simple answer is they don’t. They support anti-police. There’s a difference. Their intent is to cause mayhem. It’s not to bring about better sociological reforms for the black community. Consider the story of the Trojan horse. Images of fires burning and precincts destroyed take away sympathy from the white community. There’s a video online of the first major building attacked in Minneapolis during the protests. It was an Advance Autoparts store that was looted and burned to the ground, but first a white man with a gas mask, now referred to as “umbrella man”, is seen busting out all the windows. He avoided real participation in the BLM protest except for this solo event. Protesters actually confronted the man to ask him to stop his actions, but instead he became aggressive toward them. Breaking the windows absolutely worked in inciting an already angry mob.

It’s a simple but effective playbook. Incite; use the protest platform. Pass blame while taking no blame. What’s unclear is why BLM would ever consider an alliance. It should be clear that while both movements are anti-government that the objectives are completely different. Since the Bois are at best a loosely organized movement, it’s possibly only low level members get involved thinking they are there as actual support. It’s easier to pitch an idea if you believe it. There’s plenty of online racist rhetoric leading up to any protest that indicates there’s another piece to their involvement though. The enemy of my enemy is my friend. It’s interesting that when Boogaloos have been permitted to participate where there’s also been rioting, there have been no recorded confrontation between the provocateurs and the Boogaloos who claim they are there to protect the event. Confrontations recorded have only been with protesters or protest organizers. It seems suspicious.

In a way, the BLM Movement has been a gift to White Nationalists. Not only does it appear the media, protesters and the public are being manipulated. It’s become a real recruitment opportunity. If you pretend on one hand to help the BLM movement it becomes easier to recruit police and military with the other hand or with a different group.

The psychology behind mob mentality and the manipulation of large crowds is well studied going back over a hundred years by such notables as Gustav Le Bon, Sigmund Freud and more recently Stephen Reicher. It doesn’t take much thought or planning to incite a mob that feels they have legitimate grievances. Organizers can lose control very quickly if they do not keep protesters moving and engaged with productive dialog. It’s no accident that many of the bad actors wait till after the organizers end their participation before they then move the crowds off into a different direction. There’s a scene in the movie Animal House where the late actor Doug Kenny (who’s playing the character Stork) steals the baton at the parade from the bandleader to divert the band into a alley that dead ends. It’s a scene that pokes fun at how easy it is to control a crowd.  Controlling a really angry crowd is even easier. A small group with a different agenda can easily pit main protagonists against their main rival. It just takes a nudge like breaking windows at an Advance Autoparts. The Bois and other groups may be playing both sides against each other. Although some groups have minority members, they can never be equals in any White Nationalist movement if their main objective of bringing down the government is realized. With vast numbers of the Bois having ties to Neo-Nazi groups and Militias that only accept White Nationalists, rest assured the true nature of the movement isn’t to help the BLM movement. Bringing down the government may be their first priority but going back to a white separatist country is the ultimate objective for many militia members.  

Throughout history, the other side has infiltrated protests ever since there were protests. Kings and Queens mastered crowd manipulation long ago by placing agents in among the crowds to focus the attention of the crowd elsewhere. (4) Gustave Le Bon, considered a foremost expert in crowd and herd behavior, believed that a collective mind would always emerge due to a crowd’s organization. If you can change the mood of a crowd with simple actions like angry words and damaging of property then the crowd becomes subject to manipulation from those trying to facilitate an often different agenda.

Violent mobs turn the support of sympathizers away from protesters and their agendas. When businesses get burned down and looted, then it’s easier to justify bringing in all the kings men like the police or even the National Guard. While many still sympathize over the original reason the protest started in the first place, it’s easier now to turn a blind eye. Who will the average person sympathize with? The storeowner who lost everything or the mob who burned down the business? A single person can affect and instigate a crowd. In turn that affects the police, news media and those at home watching it on CNN. It’s a militia recruiter’s dream.

Photo: Angela Erdmann

Black Lives Matter Protests, June 1st, 2020

The Rise of the Militia’s

In order to understand where we are today we have to go back a few decades to see where most of this began.

Modern day militias and movements like “Boogaloo” started to become a legitimate threat soon after two big events; one being an 11-day siege at Ruby Ridge in Idaho in late 1992 and the other being a 51-day siege on the Branch Davidian complex in Waco, Texas in early 1993.

At Ruby Ridge, US Marshalls had shown up at the residence of Randy Weaver and his family to serve a bench warrant against him for not showing up for a hearing on firearms charges. Weaver said he had been told three different dates and had become afraid there was a conspiracy against him. He refused to surrender to authorities. During the authorities reconnaissance of the property and prior to attempting to serve the warrant, Weaver’s 14-year-old son along with a Deputy, were killed in a shootout.  Weaver’s wife was later killed by sniper fire. Eventually the standoff was resolved and the remaining family members surrendered. In court the Federal Government attempted to press first-degree murder charges on Weaver and one of his associates who had been in the original shootout with Weavers deceased son. The courts disagreed and acquitted everyone on all charges except Weavers original charge of missing his court date. He did 18-months in jail and paid a 10,000 dollar fine.

Less than six months later the FBI laid siege on the Branch Davidian complex in Waco, Texas that resulted in the deaths of 86 Branch Davidians and 4 ATF agents. Originally the FBI was attempting to execute a warrant over sexual abuse and illegal firearms allegations. Part of the reason the storming of the compound was authorized by then Attorney General Janet Reno was a rumor, which was being spread throughout the FBI, that Militia Groups were on their way to Waco to either help the Davidians or go after the Davidians. That rumor never materialized. The FBI had also reported to Reno, who had only become Attorney General 10 days after the siege had started, that kids were being abused inside the compound even though that allegation was never fully proven. Reno later expressed regret for giving the order to storm the compound.

Over the next two years, Militia recruitment would skyrocket.

Oklahoma City Bombing Memorial

Just a tiny moment in time

 

On April 19th, 1995 at 9:01 I honestly couldn't tell you what I was doing or where I was. It’s possible I was sleeping. My view of the world at that time was fairly naive. MTV was still a thing. Alternative Rock ruled the airwaves. Friends, Seinfeld, Roseanne and the X-files were top shows. San Francisco had won its 5th Super Bowl. Michael Jordan came out of retirement after his baseball hiatus. Windows 95 was released, DVD's became a thing and E-bay had just started. Boris Yeltsin, John Major and Bill Clinton were world leaders. Technology was going through the roof it seemed but the world still appeared relatively normal. At this stage in my life my world was still small. I hadn't done much traveling and I was struggling with understanding who I was and where I was going. I had two very young daughters and had separated from my ex a few years earlier. She and I had moved on from each other and I had been relegated to a part time dad. I had a business I had been trying to make work, but it was failing. In truth, I wasn't in a good place in my life. What was about to happen would remind me that I had more to be grateful for than I realized. I don’t like that other peoples tragedies remind me I should be more grateful and yet there it is.

 

On April 19th, 1995 at 9:03 am, the world for the most part... changed for everyone. Even if we couldn't see the bigger picture at that time of the consequences of such an action, it still forever changed. The way the government did business and perceived threats changed. Laws changed. Our personal privacy changed. American eyes became a little wider open and the worldview of the United States was dramatically revised. Till this day, on April 19th at 9:02 am, church bells ring and people still stop what they are doing or pull over in their vehicles to give 168 seconds of silence.

 

Some of those people are survivors or maybe they actually lost loved ones in what is still the largest domestic terror event caused by an American citizen. At 9:02 am a massive bomb went off and decimated 1/3 of the Alfred P. Murray Federal Building in Oklahoma City. Around 90 minutes after the explosion Timothy J. McVeigh was pulled over for a traffic stop because his vehicle didn't have a license plate. In 2001 he was executed. 

Oklahoma City Bombing Memorial

Recruitment Needs Manipulation and Planning

Timothy McVeigh earned a Bronze Star for his service along the Kuwaiti border during the first Iraq war. His commanders suggested he could be a candidate for Green Beret training but McVeigh never followed through. After his military service, McVeigh spent significant time at gun shows and hanging out with militia groups in Michigan. Inspiration for how to carry out his attack came from a book called the (5) Turner Diaries. It’s a fictional dystopian novel about a white supremacist revolution in a future that overthrows the Government. It echoes the dogma embraced by today’s Militias. In the book, a truck bomb similar to the one McVeigh built is used for similar purposes.

White Nationalist groups have held the book sacred and the writer of the book, William Pierce, became the leader of the National Alliance, which at one time had been called the most dangerous and well-organized neo-Nazi group in U.S. History. After his death in 2002, the group splintered and lost significant members but around 2017, largely due to current political rhetoric, recruiting picked up and they now claim thousands who have shown up at their events and rallies. They too are Boogaloos.

The Turner Diaries also inspired Dylann Roof who murdered nine innocent black parishioners in cold blood in South Carolina in 2015. The hope was to start a race war. (6) It's claimed the book has inspired more than 200 murders.

The group that McVeigh had held in high regard, the National Alliance, had been around since 1974. In 1995 on April 19th at 9:02 am, their dreams had become realized with the blood of McVeigh's 168 victims, 19 of which were children. McVeigh later claimed that the FBI raid on both Ruby Ridge and the Branch Davidian complex in Texas served as the moment he decided to plan out the attack. He claimed both incidences were overreaching by the government. 

At 9:03 am, on that fateful morning, we became aware no one was safe and living was a daily reprieve. The naive notion that life was somehow fair or that racism and bigotry was mostly a thing of the past would come to light over the coming weeks as the motivations for McVeigh's heinous crime became apparent. After the attack, many who had followed in the same footprints McVeigh had walked in began to distance themselves from the militias and the rhetoric they had followed in cult like fashion. McVeigh, after all, looked exactly like many of them when they looked in the mirror. The wake up call was short lived. 9/11 came along and gave new reasons to hate and justify bigotry. It moved the needle away from the Oklahoma bombing as the largest terrorist attack on American soil but still holds the distinction of being the largest homegrown domestic terrorist attack. 9/11, to a degree, took away white America's concerns about their white neighbors and instead focused them on others who were culturally and religiously different. Governmental agencies will say they never stopped focusing on domestic terrorism, but the general publics attention span moved away from white America to anyone who resembled Middle Eastern descent... even if they just looked Middle Eastern. 9/11 helped bigotry and racism and militias grow, while McVeigh's act just over 6 years earlier, made many in the movement stop and question the roots that gave rise to a McVeigh.

The next big recruiting event, even bigger than 9/11, was the election of the first Black President of the United States, Barack Hussein Obama. The conspiracies leading up to the election and those that came after he was in office; like the conspiracy pushed by then citizen Trump, that Obama was not born in the United States fanned the flames of discontent. Recruitment rose dramatically throughout the White Nationalist community. Groups like the Oath Keepers who claim to be non-racist were born directly out of the election of Obama and the conspiracies surrounding him. That newly energized and growing White Nationalist movement is the same base that played a pivotal role in Trumps the narrow victory in 2016. It appears the right wing media acted as the inside man to push the conspiracies to an already angry ‘at home’ mob. Preparation for where we are now may have started as far back as Barack Obama’s first campaign as President.

9/11 World Trade Center Memorial

What makes today different?

In 2020, we find ourselves in a vastly different world than existed prior to April 19th, 1995, but the underlying disease of racism seems more prevalent now than back then. The groups today have only changed names not objectives.

My personal experience when I had visited the Oklahoma Memorial in 2010 was one of somber remembrance. The Gates of Time were striking in their poignant philosophy regarding the passage of time and the changes we experience in our lives. It reminds change can happen in the blink of an eye and that some change is far from good. The 168 empty chairs (19 of them child size) are heartbreaking. The names of over 600 survivors, inscribed in four granite tablets saved from the Alfred P. Murray Federal Building, is a reminder that even in the face of great evil and pain we somehow still manage to survive and move on. 

In the Turner Diaries, anyone who was a "race traitor" would be marked for planned mass murder the neo-Nazi's believed would happen after they defeated the American Government. Yes, there are militia members and Boogaloo Bois who view anyone who speaks against them out as race traitors. They believe those who continue to speak out will one day be pulled out of their homes and dragged out into the street on a day of reckoning they refer to as the ‘Day of the Rope’ just as it happened in the Turner Diaries.

Since 2017 the (7) National Alliance neo-Nazi group are actively once again recruiting and growing. It’s been energized and organized behind new leadership. Many forget it was the same group McVeigh aspired to be a part of. Many forget McVeigh and Terry Nichols hung out with militias in Michigan just like the Wolverine Watchmen. Sure, after Oklahoma many groups learned to not push or advertise racist agendas and today instead concentrate on their anti-government message but are they really much different than Pierce’s National Alliance? Groups like the Oath Keepers, Proud Boys, Boogaloo Bois, Three Percenters or even the Wolverine Watchmen are just reincarnations of past groups preaching similar antigovernment rhetoric. They follow similar pathways born out of dogma William Pierce preached. Now, with the Boogaloo ideology, they may have something that helps binds them together. They now also believe they have a man in the Whitehouse that supports them. Those two things are what make what we are seeing today unlike anything we’ve ever seen in our lifetime.

Something’s coming. We all feel it. The tension on the strings can only get so tight before it snaps. COVID contributes to the tension by putting financial stress on poorer white populations. In 2009, the mortgage crisis placed a similar financial burden on many Americans. Both time periods emboldened militias who spewed conspiracies that resulted in increased recruitment.

In 1995, I didn’t see Oklahoma City happening. In 2001, I didn’t see 9/11 happening. In 2020, how can we not see something big is about to happen? The Election is sure to be a catalyst for whatever is coming. The question then becomes: What, if anything, can we do to stop it?

Santiago, Chile: A Little Complication

Only a few weeks before we arrived, Santiago had erupted in protests. Soon we’d find ourselves in one of the worlds greatest hotspots…

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Chile: Santiago

A Little Complication


A little complication

We would be spending roughly 6-1/2 days in several locations throughout Chile. I had originally had us flying in and out of Argentina but had decided to fly into Chile and then eventually depart out from Argentina. It wound up being a great decision since we were able to add Isla de Pascua, or more commonly known as Easter Island (or Rapa Nui) to the trip. Before we made the trip to the Island however we intended to spend some time in Santiago and hopefully, Valparaiso. When I booked the trip my research had told me that Chile was one of the safest and economically sound countries in South America as well as one of the more expensive ones to visit. We were looking forward to experiencing all the culture that Santiago in particular had to offer. An important lesson on world traveling was about to unfold.

Unfortunately, a few weeks before we intended to arrive, Santiago had erupted in protests. What started out as a few kids jumping subway turnstiles to protest increased fares, quickly escalated into more serious confrontations with the police. A coordinated campaign by protesters soon followed that resulted in the burning down of various metro stations. In the end, all the stations reported some kind of damage that forced the metro to completely shut down except for one line. Soon after, the Chilean peoples world changed almost overnight. Reports indicated that the police, in an attempt to gain control, beat and in some cases killed some of the protesters and looters. The result of that action was the evolution of much larger crowds protesting overall dissatisfaction in the government, a cost of living that outpaces pension funds every year and the general deep economic disparity between the various classes. Protest crowds of one million or more started to become a regular occurrence just days before we were scheduled to arrive. All that unrest within just a few short weeks inevitably forced us to reconsider our plans. 

We had booked an AirBnb close to the Bellavista neighborhood. Internet research had promised a bohemian style atmosphere with dozens of interesting sites within walking distance. Unfortunately it was also extremely close to Parque Metropolitan, which was the everyday epicenter of the daily protests. While it was tempting to pretend we were journalists documenting a revolution, our lack of experience dictated we might want to avoid the area on our own. 

During the course of planning our trip I had built relationships with four very different individuals who lived in Santiago, each having a different take on the situation. One of the four actually got involved in the protests to a degree and he ironically was the only one who thought we should be ok staying in Bellevista. The other three thought it would be smart if we re-booked at a different location, which we did. We wound up staying in the Las Condes area during the entirety of our time in Santiago. It was an upscale area of Santiago about 45 minutes away from the city center and main protests. 

My contacts also made sure we got safe transport from the Airport to our AirBnb. The protesters, on some days, had begun to shut down highways from the airport into the city. Renting a car on our own or relying on unknown transport could have possibly put us in the line of fire. Since any non-citizen involving themselves in domestic protests is illegal in Chile, even getting caught up accidently could have had very unpleasant results. There were just too many unknowns. I needed to find a way to eliminate the risk of us unwillingly getting mixed up in any potential dangerous situations. Of course that doesn’t mean we were any less interested in the unusual situation we found ourselves in. The four gentlemen I had connected with in Chile proved to be invaluable in making sure we stayed safe and still had a great time. There undoubtedly was a lot that we missed out on in Santiago due to the situation but when compared to what the Chilean people were going through, it was a small price to play.

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PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

 Economics and Politics

The area we stayed in was mere blocks away from the main mall, Alto Las Condes. It had just re-opened the day we arrived after being shut down for safety concerns due to the protests. A mall is literally the last place Angie or I would want to visit on any travel experience and yet, that’s exactly where we found ourselves. We needed some supplies. A contact that met up with us chose to take us there to get what we needed. The mall looked to be a fantastic mall with very upscale stores. That decadence was in stark contrast to the much poorer areas we drove past on the way from the airport to Las Condes and a reminder of why the protests were going on in the first place. 

Every city of course has poor and rich areas. It’s the way of the world. What seems to be going in Santiago, as well as other parts of the world including in the U.S. is the divide between the rich and the poor is growing. The middle class in Chile has shrunk dramatically while the other two classes have grown exponentially. Our driver, whose main job was that of being a teacher, had to drive to make ends meet. Because of both of his jobs he wasn’t able to spend a lot of time at home with his family and children and yet, as he explained, was still one of the lucky ones. He was the one who also schooled us a little on the ultra rich of Santiago. The top 0.1%, of which the current President is a part of, decides the economic future of all of Chile and its people. The distribution of wealth is wildly unequal. 

Chiles rich history at times has been a rocky one. To a large part, it’s been that way because of U.S. interventions in its politics for well over a century. Augusto Pinoche, gained power in 1973 because of help from a U.S. backed coup. The fear at that time was that the duly elected socialist government of Salvador Allende would move the country towards communism.  After taking control as President, Pinoche went on to form one of the world’s cruelest autocracies. The US directly supported him all the way through the Reagan years. In 1988 U.S. policy shifted and by 1990 he was finally forced to leave office. Even then, through some sort of agreement it’s assumed, he still managed to maintain an active role in Chilean government affairs all the way until 2002. He died in 2006. 

Chile, after the Pinoche regime, tried to reinvent itself. Moving towards a more capitalistic approach, it inevitably and maybe unintentionally, left millions behind. Many Chileans seemingly struggled moving into a future where capitalism is the new norm. Poor government planning and lack of good education for the bottom 40 percent contributed to the current situation. Putting money into education, training and protecting pension funds will go a long way in pulling Chile out of the current protest chaos it finds itself in. Even with promises by the current administration, many view it as too little too late and can’t help but to view recent government promises with a healthy bit of skepticism. The protests, still going on long after we returned home, seem unrelenting. The people’s patience has been long exploited by both the United States and the top 0.1 percent of the richest Chileans. The bottom 40 percent appears no longer willing to accept the status quo. 

The current government controls most of the media. Much of what the top 40 percent and the small middle class see is what the government wants them to see. The media partially lays the blame of the bottom 40 percents problems at their own feet. While drugs or alcohol surely play a role in poverty it’s by far not the sole reason, but that doesn’t stop the media from spinning that theory. Dividing the people seems to be an effective tactic all over the world these days. Instead of figuring out a fair solution to age-old problems, the ultra rich work to maintain the status quo in order to protect their own interests. History shows that can only work for a certain period of time before the bottom half rises up against economic tyranny. This seems to be the crossroads where Chile currently sits. 

For me, I’m not against being rich, I’m against being unfair and stacking the deck. The people in Chile want change and they probably won’t rest until the current administration completely steps down. The fear in Chile by the top 40% is that somehow that will result in Chile moving once again in a more socialist or even communist direction. Because there are two sides to every story its important to consider what’s in everyone’s best interest. The people on both sides have to figure out a healthy way forward for all. I wish them well. The people I met there, who are on both sides of the debate, are amazing people and deserve a stable, prosperous country that works for everyone.

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PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

 Color and Contrast

One of my contacts took the time one day to drive us into the heart of protest central during a quiet time. It was quite daunting seeing the military personnel, extensive damage and graffiti defacing much of Santiago’s historic center. Blackened debris, lying in the middle of the streets, marked locations of some of the previous nights fires. Numerous buildings, normally bustling with activity, were boarded up to protect them from damage and looters. The boards now sporting new protest graffiti. Although not entirely looking like a war zone it wasn’t so far away from that look that one couldn’t easily imagine it moving deeper in that direction. 

It made me a little fearful for the contacts and people in general that I had met in Chile. While everyone seemed to understand change was coming, they still disagreed on the type and extent of change that was needed. They did however agree that the damage caused by some of the protesters was unproductive and harmful to the process. The media was blaming Venezuelans and Cubans as instigators while some of my contacts said that idea was mostly preposterous. The fear tactic of blaming outside countries seems like a cheap ploy when the proof that economic problems have been stirring for decades is clear for anyone to see that chooses to. Besides, if anyone knows anything about either of those two countries, they’d understand have their hands full with their own problems. Most of my contacts in Chile believed the protest damage was being caused by an unruly few and that 99 percent of the million plus protesters that showed up daily were peaceful. Videos, sent to me by a couple of contacts, seemed to lend credence to the latter.

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PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

Our Experience

Overall we feel very privileged to have visited Chile during the time we visited. We wish we could have experience many of the museums and cultural places we had wanted to but it just wasn’t to be. Our contacts looked over us and possibly kept us a little too safe. My adventurous spirit would have had us walking through the protests and interviewing people. Of coarse, my way could have resulted in spending some time in a Chilean jail cell. 

Our first night there we learned real quick that Chilean cuisine was amazing. Like its neighbor Argentina, it’s known for its great cattle and beef production. Also, because of the entirety of the countries proximity to the Pacific Ocean, it’s a major epicenter for some of the freshest seafood in the world. Chile’s amazing volcanic soil produces almost every kind of fruit or vegetable you could want. For the epicurious, it’s a dream destination.

But there’s a dark side. Overfishing strains the oceans while farming and cattle production strains the water resources. Many villages claim the world’s appetite for avocados alone drains millions of gallons of the precious resource. Avocados need up to twice as much more water than most other fruits or vegetables. Rainfall is limited in many areas of Chile and they receive a lot of water from glaciers high up in the Andes. Glaciers, that due to climate change, are now shrinking. Chile also receives up to 150 million in loans from the World Bank and other institutions to help in rural water supply. Like many of us, my near daily avocado consumption is part of the problem. 

Santiago’s beauty is strongly accentuated with the backdrop of the Andes Mountains. The sunsets bounce incredible colors off the mountains in all directions. We found ourselves mesmerized with this phenomenon from the balcony of our AirBnb.. 

The Las Condes area we stayed in was a nice area but it's still just your standard suburban experience. That wasn’t what we had hoped for. There is so much more we need to experience in Santiago. Both Angie and I hope to make it back to see the real inner city of Santiago that we always try and experience wherever we go.

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PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero

NYC: Buffy the Dog walker

Decades ago, artists created the scene in neighborhoods. Now the newly gentrified areas bring much higher rents many artists can’t afford

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NEW YORK CITY

Buffy the Dog Walker (an argument against gentrification)

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero


Buffy the dog walker (an argument against gentrification)

 

So I don’t normally write like this. My writing is about travel. I’m not an expert in any location I travel to. If I were, then it would no longer really be a travel destination for me. It would become something else. Something I likely lost my wonder and curiosity for. After all, familiarity breeds contempt. What I am an expert in are bookings, research and problem solving (so I think). I can put together almost any trip no matter how complicated and I can do so reasonably without breaking the bank. That’s my talent. It’s also time consuming.

I’ve found myself in New York City several times. Angie actually has some roots there. While I haven’t lived in NYC, I’ve had the chance to do some decent exploration, albeit often through Angela’s eyes. NYC is a simple, complicated, cultural, antiquated, modern, alive and dead city. It’s where dreams are made and dreams are crushed. I’d be lying if I claimed I knew it intimately. Pittsburgh, where I come from, is a small country town by comparison. They call it the Big Apple because there’s supposed to be enough for everyone to take a bite from it but when you explore a little more deeply, it becomes apparent that the city bites back. Not everyone makes it out alive. Nowhere else I’ve visited compares. The city teeters in the light and the dark. It’s not just about the have and the have nots… that’s everywhere you go. It’s much deeper than that. The city is profoundly scarred from it’s past. While it’s made a lot of people stronger it’s also left quite a few behind. Maybe in my future travel I’ll find cultural and philosophical equivalents. Scars, after all, are not something I shy away from. In my own past, I’ve been through some dark times. I believe we can all make it through the darkest of times but I also had some help from people who I knew had my back. What happens when people stop helping and you lose everyone around you who ever believed in you? Not everyone is strong enough to make it through all that. Not everyone has large families. Some simply have no family left or they’ve long burned too many bridges for anyone else to risk putting out their hand in friendship and support. There’s a stark line between tough love - and fuck off.

9/11 produced a significant amount of PTSD. At the time of this writing (I post the date I visited at the top of a post) the COVID-19 epidemic has killed more people in NYC than anywhere else in the U.S. By the time it’s over, NYC may hold the distinction of more deaths than any country in the world. Odds are more than one person there just lost their only family member or their only real friend. To make it worse, the medical professionals are often the last person the sick see before they pass. That’s additional PTSD for those medical workers and families in a city already scarred… and yet New York City is still proudly America’s powerhouse.

New York is like the fighter you haven’t fought yet. Sure you’ve beaten everyone else but you haven’t beaten the champ. You know you’ll never be the best until you’ve beaten the best. It’s like scoring the big clients at work but the biggest still remains elusive. Sinatra sang, “If I make it there, I’ll make it anywhere”. New York holds that legendary distinction. It makes or breaks you. 

Most of the pictures I’ve taken of the city are not as intimate a portrait of the city as I wish. I’ll try and change that in future trips. I can only share in words my understanding of my experiences in the city. I've never lived there but as I mentioned earlier, Angela lived there back in the 90’s when she attended NYU. That was long before Giuliani cleaned up much of the city. The 90’s were a just a much different time. You had your nice areas and your bad areas and if you lived in the nice areas you didn’t go into the bad areas. Now, so much of those questionable areas have been gentrified. The strip clubs, punk hangouts and seedy bars are now replaced with trendy shops, gyms and $8.00 a cup coffee shops. Needle parks now all cleaned up so nicely that you can confidently have family outings. Solid places you can safely bring your children. Now people talk about areas in New Jersey as the place you might not want to walk at night although maybe they always talked about Jersey to be fair. The Bronx, certain areas of Brooklyn and upper Manhattan still have rough reputations, but even those tough areas keep getting slowly modernized essentially pushing those that can't afford the new reality into a neighborhood they have no attachment to. There's a lot of money to be made in revitalization projects. Greed and compassion don't often share the same bed.

Decades ago, artists helped create the scene in many neighborhoods. They don't call artists starving for no reason. The newly gentrified areas bring much higher rents that many artists can't afford. There are not too many artists left in the communities they helped influence, at least not the grittier ones. Coffee shops don’t make an area trendy when every corner has one. Eclectic bookstores can actually help with the coolness factor but Amazon now delivers them right to your home or electronic device so those too are disappearing. The few remaining locations where you still find unique art are now found mostly in the newly pristine parks. Musicians will come on the weekends in the summer, small artist stands will set up where permitted to hock their goods but you'll still never bring back the infamous punk scene of the 80's and early 90's. Even if you could, punkers wouldn’t be able to afford living anywhere even close to St. Marks Place and the East Village today. It's ironic that many places that artists make trendy seem to eventually get swallowed up forcing the artists to move into more affordable locations while simultaneously the suckers who buy in at premium prices, move in expecting that same eclectic flair only to find out their new neighborhood lost its identity and is now just a carbon copy of the last gentrified formula neighborhood. Without neighborhood input and foresight, developers will follow where the money leads them. I've seen very few revitalization projects that do a good job maintaining a neighborhoods soul and identity. There are examples out there, if everyone is willing to compromise between money and compassion. Finding the right development companies and having sound planning with good neighborhood participation is vital for neighborhoods to maintain reasonable identity.

 

There will be ongoing debate and varying opinions if gentrification changes communities for the better or for the worse. The truth may be a little more complicated than that. It’s all about perspective. Pushing out entire communities so Buffy can walk her dog in a safe manner and her dog can shit on the few patches of grass left in an otherwise concrete city might be appealing to some, but what happens to everyone that got pushed out? The people who couldn’t rise up in a city that always beat them back. The only thing familiar to them was the neighborhood they grew up in. It was like another family member and while some people see the newly gentrified neighborhood as coming back to life, for many that grew up there, we just killed off a family member. It’s like someone put an Invasion of the Body Snatchers type of pod outside their community and by the time they finally woke up something clearly seemed off and felt wrong... but it was too damn late. Those smiles now seem too plastic. The pain and wisdom that once oozed from its pores is still there but seems more foreign and is much more camouflaged. It’s like the soul had been ripped out of the community and its now been replaced by Buffy the dog walker who doesn’t care if you step in her dogs shit because she doesn’t have time to clean it up. She still has to get to the new trendy gym that just opened up to show a rental unit to a new prospective client. A property that’s now 4-5 times the cost that it was just a few short years ago. I’d argue that the more diversified a community is, the stronger it is. It shouldn't always be about how much money you have or don't have.

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero