Hard Monkey Productions

Exploring Culture, Humanity, Travel, History, Art, Mysteries and Politics through Visual Arts

Facebook-f Instagram

Category: Politics

Extremism in America

When the plot to kidnap the sitting Governor of Michigan by a group called the Wolverine Watchmen was uncovered, some of us probably asked ourselves, “Is this really happening?” I know I did

Tom Lonero
11/09/2020

EXTREMISM IN AMERICA

Why whats going on today is unlike anything in our lifetime

PHOTOS BY: Thomas Lonero

When the plot to kidnap the sitting Governor of Michigan by a group called the Wolverine Watchmen was uncovered, some of us probably asked ourselves, “Is this really happening?” I know I did. The group was deemed dangerous enough for the FBI to infiltrate. Although it’s believed the group had only formed this year, it’s widely known that many of the members had been visible participants in the militia movement in Michigan for years, if not decades. Some members have also been tied to the Boogaloo movement, AKA the Boogaloo Bois.

They are a group that doesn’t claim any organizational structure but they sure seem to have all the makings of an organization. So far they’ve been involved with:

·      Plotting to kidnap or kill a sitting Governor.

·      Directly inciting Minneapolis riots after the death of George Floyd. A member shot up the police precinct that incited mobs to later loot and burn it. He was arrested in Texas.

·      Numerous members have been arrested of Federal gun charges.

·      One Michigan man died in a shootout when they attempted to arrest him. It’s alleged he also had white separatist ties.

·      A police officer was killed in Oakland CA by a member who was also an active duty Air Force Staff Sergeant. Contact between the Sergeant and members nationwide were said to include plans to attack other law enforcement officers and government facilities.

·      Three Boogaloo members were arrested in Las Vegas on domestic terrorism charges after looking to take advantage of Black Lives Matter (BLM) protests. They made bombs they intended to detonate at protests. All three were either current reservists or recently became ex-military.

·      Armed members have stormed the State Capitals in Michigan and North Carolina as well as the Federal Courthouse in Portland Oregon demanding States open back up. Other States like Kentucky, Pennsylvania and New York have experienced similar armed events at government buildings.

·      A Maryland man was shot and killed by police during a no knock warrant for illegal firearm possession, His family insists he was not an extremist but members of the Boogaloo movement have claimed him as their own. On-line social media posts threaten a day a reckoning for his killing. His own social media posts indicate a connection.

·      At least two members of the movement attempted to join Hamas. Their plan was to raise funds to support the movement. They are now charged with attempting to provide material support to a designated foreign terror organization. They also were involved with the riots in Minneapolis. It’s alleged they belong to a sub-group of the Boogaloo movement called the “Boojahideen”. The term “White Jihad” has been used in social platforms to push their extremist rhetoric.

So who are the Boogaloo Bois? According to them, they are individuals who seek to bring about a second American Civil War they call the “Boogaloo”. Their enemy is the Federal government and left wing political opponents, which is why their reported involvement and support of a left wing organization like the BLM movement, is suspect.

The unorganized, seemingly better organized than we are made to think group, claim they are not built on racist ideology. Yet numerous members use racist and bigoted language along multiple social media platforms that implies there is a hidden agenda. Experts on militias and domestic terrorism point out the ‘Boogaloo’ started as a racist (1) meme. Yes, some members are minorities. The only requirement to join appears to be a commitment to help facilitate the end of the Federal Government no matter what color one may be. How can the two facts coincide?

Those who call themselves Boogaloo come from groups like the Three Percenters, Oath Keepers, Proud Boys, the Michigan Militia or similar groups. They can be neo-Nazis, black militants and members of the KKK, as long as they leave that ideology at the door and remember the main requirement is the defeat of the Federal Government and any leftist influence. For that reason they may be more of an ideology. They seem to be building an alliance of sorts through online resources. Ultimately, organization of the Boogaloo Bois may prove inevitable. Some members have already been called leaders.

According to the Southern Poverty Law Center, the Oath Keepers are believed to have a (2) membership around 25-35 thousand. If certain players were able to coordinate efforts between multiple groups then all of a sudden you could be looking at between 100-200 thousand members of fringe groups working together on some level. The Oath Keepers claim the most active duty Police, Military and First Responders. Their ability to work from the inside could make them a threat. That doesn’t mean all members of other groups actively participate or engage with the Boogaloo movement, but most members of other groups consider themselves anti-government so collaboration and cooperation is happening on some level. For comparison, National Guard Troops number around 450,000. Police number between 600-700 thousand. What side are the active duty police or military that pledged to a particular group? The numbers mean that within the US we have a private army splintered into different factions that are 25% the size of law enforcement and military. At this time not all groups get along. Some groups have accused the Oath Keepers of (3) not being racist enough.

With significant Boogaloos espousing racist ideology how can they claim they support BLM?  The simple answer is they don’t. They support anti-police. There’s a difference. Their intent is to cause mayhem. It’s not to bring about better sociological reforms for the black community. Consider the story of the Trojan horse. Images of fires burning and precincts destroyed take away sympathy from the white community. There’s a video online of the first major building attacked in Minneapolis during the protests. It was an Advance Autoparts store that was looted and burned to the ground, but first a white man with a gas mask, now referred to as “umbrella man”, is seen busting out all the windows. He avoided real participation in the BLM protest except for this solo event. Protesters actually confronted the man to ask him to stop his actions, but instead he became aggressive toward them. Breaking the windows absolutely worked in inciting an already angry mob.

It’s a simple but effective playbook. Incite; use the protest platform. Pass blame while taking no blame. What’s unclear is why BLM would ever consider an alliance. It should be clear that while both movements are anti-government that the objectives are completely different. Since the Bois are at best a loosely organized movement, it’s possibly only low level members get involved thinking they are there as actual support. It’s easier to pitch an idea if you believe it. There’s plenty of online racist rhetoric leading up to any protest that indicates there’s another piece to their involvement though. The enemy of my enemy is my friend. It’s interesting that when Boogaloos have been permitted to participate where there’s also been rioting, there have been no recorded confrontation between the provocateurs and the Boogaloos who claim they are there to protect the event. Confrontations recorded have only been with protesters or protest organizers. It seems suspicious.

In a way, the BLM Movement has been a gift to White Nationalists. Not only does it appear the media, protesters and the public are being manipulated. It’s become a real recruitment opportunity. If you pretend on one hand to help the BLM movement it becomes easier to recruit police and military with the other hand or with a different group.

The psychology behind mob mentality and the manipulation of large crowds is well studied going back over a hundred years by such notables as Gustav Le Bon, Sigmund Freud and more recently Stephen Reicher. It doesn’t take much thought or planning to incite a mob that feels they have legitimate grievances. Organizers can lose control very quickly if they do not keep protesters moving and engaged with productive dialog. It’s no accident that many of the bad actors wait till after the organizers end their participation before they then move the crowds off into a different direction. There’s a scene in the movie Animal House where the late actor Doug Kenny (who’s playing the character Stork) steals the baton at the parade from the bandleader to divert the band into a alley that dead ends. It’s a scene that pokes fun at how easy it is to control a crowd.  Controlling a really angry crowd is even easier. A small group with a different agenda can easily pit main protagonists against their main rival. It just takes a nudge like breaking windows at an Advance Autoparts. The Bois and other groups may be playing both sides against each other. Although some groups have minority members, they can never be equals in any White Nationalist movement if their main objective of bringing down the government is realized. With vast numbers of the Bois having ties to Neo-Nazi groups and Militias that only accept White Nationalists, rest assured the true nature of the movement isn’t to help the BLM movement. Bringing down the government may be their first priority but going back to a white separatist country is the ultimate objective for many militia members.  

Throughout history, the other side has infiltrated protests ever since there were protests. Kings and Queens mastered crowd manipulation long ago by placing agents in among the crowds to focus the attention of the crowd elsewhere. (4) Gustave Le Bon, considered a foremost expert in crowd and herd behavior, believed that a collective mind would always emerge due to a crowd’s organization. If you can change the mood of a crowd with simple actions like angry words and damaging of property then the crowd becomes subject to manipulation from those trying to facilitate an often different agenda.

Violent mobs turn the support of sympathizers away from protesters and their agendas. When businesses get burned down and looted, then it’s easier to justify bringing in all the kings men like the police or even the National Guard. While many still sympathize over the original reason the protest started in the first place, it’s easier now to turn a blind eye. Who will the average person sympathize with? The storeowner who lost everything or the mob who burned down the business? A single person can affect and instigate a crowd. In turn that affects the police, news media and those at home watching it on CNN. It’s a militia recruiter’s dream.

Photo: Angela Erdmann

Black Lives Matter Protests, June 1st, 2020

The Rise of the Militia’s

In order to understand where we are today we have to go back a few decades to see where most of this began.

Modern day militias and movements like “Boogaloo” started to become a legitimate threat soon after two big events; one being an 11-day siege at Ruby Ridge in Idaho in late 1992 and the other being a 51-day siege on the Branch Davidian complex in Waco, Texas in early 1993.

At Ruby Ridge, US Marshalls had shown up at the residence of Randy Weaver and his family to serve a bench warrant against him for not showing up for a hearing on firearms charges. Weaver said he had been told three different dates and had become afraid there was a conspiracy against him. He refused to surrender to authorities. During the authorities reconnaissance of the property and prior to attempting to serve the warrant, Weaver’s 14-year-old son along with a Deputy, were killed in a shootout.  Weaver’s wife was later killed by sniper fire. Eventually the standoff was resolved and the remaining family members surrendered. In court the Federal Government attempted to press first-degree murder charges on Weaver and one of his associates who had been in the original shootout with Weavers deceased son. The courts disagreed and acquitted everyone on all charges except Weavers original charge of missing his court date. He did 18-months in jail and paid a 10,000 dollar fine.

Less than six months later the FBI laid siege on the Branch Davidian complex in Waco, Texas that resulted in the deaths of 86 Branch Davidians and 4 ATF agents. Originally the FBI was attempting to execute a warrant over sexual abuse and illegal firearms allegations. Part of the reason the storming of the compound was authorized by then Attorney General Janet Reno was a rumor, which was being spread throughout the FBI, that Militia Groups were on their way to Waco to either help the Davidians or go after the Davidians. That rumor never materialized. The FBI had also reported to Reno, who had only become Attorney General 10 days after the siege had started, that kids were being abused inside the compound even though that allegation was never fully proven. Reno later expressed regret for giving the order to storm the compound.

Over the next two years, Militia recruitment would skyrocket.

Oklahoma City Bombing Memorial

Just a tiny moment in time

 

On April 19th, 1995 at 9:01 I honestly couldn't tell you what I was doing or where I was. It’s possible I was sleeping. My view of the world at that time was fairly naive. MTV was still a thing. Alternative Rock ruled the airwaves. Friends, Seinfeld, Roseanne and the X-files were top shows. San Francisco had won its 5th Super Bowl. Michael Jordan came out of retirement after his baseball hiatus. Windows 95 was released, DVD's became a thing and E-bay had just started. Boris Yeltsin, John Major and Bill Clinton were world leaders. Technology was going through the roof it seemed but the world still appeared relatively normal. At this stage in my life my world was still small. I hadn't done much traveling and I was struggling with understanding who I was and where I was going. I had two very young daughters and had separated from my ex a few years earlier. She and I had moved on from each other and I had been relegated to a part time dad. I had a business I had been trying to make work, but it was failing. In truth, I wasn't in a good place in my life. What was about to happen would remind me that I had more to be grateful for than I realized. I don’t like that other peoples tragedies remind me I should be more grateful and yet there it is.

 

On April 19th, 1995 at 9:03 am, the world for the most part... changed for everyone. Even if we couldn't see the bigger picture at that time of the consequences of such an action, it still forever changed. The way the government did business and perceived threats changed. Laws changed. Our personal privacy changed. American eyes became a little wider open and the worldview of the United States was dramatically revised. Till this day, on April 19th at 9:02 am, church bells ring and people still stop what they are doing or pull over in their vehicles to give 168 seconds of silence.

 

Some of those people are survivors or maybe they actually lost loved ones in what is still the largest domestic terror event caused by an American citizen. At 9:02 am a massive bomb went off and decimated 1/3 of the Alfred P. Murray Federal Building in Oklahoma City. Around 90 minutes after the explosion Timothy J. McVeigh was pulled over for a traffic stop because his vehicle didn't have a license plate. In 2001 he was executed. 

Oklahoma City Bombing Memorial

Recruitment Needs Manipulation and Planning

Timothy McVeigh earned a Bronze Star for his service along the Kuwaiti border during the first Iraq war. His commanders suggested he could be a candidate for Green Beret training but McVeigh never followed through. After his military service, McVeigh spent significant time at gun shows and hanging out with militia groups in Michigan. Inspiration for how to carry out his attack came from a book called the (5) Turner Diaries. It’s a fictional dystopian novel about a white supremacist revolution in a future that overthrows the Government. It echoes the dogma embraced by today’s Militias. In the book, a truck bomb similar to the one McVeigh built is used for similar purposes.

White Nationalist groups have held the book sacred and the writer of the book, William Pierce, became the leader of the National Alliance, which at one time had been called the most dangerous and well-organized neo-Nazi group in U.S. History. After his death in 2002, the group splintered and lost significant members but around 2017, largely due to current political rhetoric, recruiting picked up and they now claim thousands who have shown up at their events and rallies. They too are Boogaloos.

The Turner Diaries also inspired Dylann Roof who murdered nine innocent black parishioners in cold blood in South Carolina in 2015. The hope was to start a race war. (6) It's claimed the book has inspired more than 200 murders.

The group that McVeigh had held in high regard, the National Alliance, had been around since 1974. In 1995 on April 19th at 9:02 am, their dreams had become realized with the blood of McVeigh's 168 victims, 19 of which were children. McVeigh later claimed that the FBI raid on both Ruby Ridge and the Branch Davidian complex in Texas served as the moment he decided to plan out the attack. He claimed both incidences were overreaching by the government. 

At 9:03 am, on that fateful morning, we became aware no one was safe and living was a daily reprieve. The naive notion that life was somehow fair or that racism and bigotry was mostly a thing of the past would come to light over the coming weeks as the motivations for McVeigh's heinous crime became apparent. After the attack, many who had followed in the same footprints McVeigh had walked in began to distance themselves from the militias and the rhetoric they had followed in cult like fashion. McVeigh, after all, looked exactly like many of them when they looked in the mirror. The wake up call was short lived. 9/11 came along and gave new reasons to hate and justify bigotry. It moved the needle away from the Oklahoma bombing as the largest terrorist attack on American soil but still holds the distinction of being the largest homegrown domestic terrorist attack. 9/11, to a degree, took away white America's concerns about their white neighbors and instead focused them on others who were culturally and religiously different. Governmental agencies will say they never stopped focusing on domestic terrorism, but the general publics attention span moved away from white America to anyone who resembled Middle Eastern descent... even if they just looked Middle Eastern. 9/11 helped bigotry and racism and militias grow, while McVeigh's act just over 6 years earlier, made many in the movement stop and question the roots that gave rise to a McVeigh.

The next big recruiting event, even bigger than 9/11, was the election of the first Black President of the United States, Barack Hussein Obama. The conspiracies leading up to the election and those that came after he was in office; like the conspiracy pushed by then citizen Trump, that Obama was not born in the United States fanned the flames of discontent. Recruitment rose dramatically throughout the White Nationalist community. Groups like the Oath Keepers who claim to be non-racist were born directly out of the election of Obama and the conspiracies surrounding him. That newly energized and growing White Nationalist movement is the same base that played a pivotal role in Trumps the narrow victory in 2016. It appears the right wing media acted as the inside man to push the conspiracies to an already angry ‘at home’ mob. Preparation for where we are now may have started as far back as Barack Obama’s first campaign as President.

9/11 World Trade Center Memorial

What makes today different?

In 2020, we find ourselves in a vastly different world than existed prior to April 19th, 1995, but the underlying disease of racism seems more prevalent now than back then. The groups today have only changed names not objectives.

My personal experience when I had visited the Oklahoma Memorial in 2010 was one of somber remembrance. The Gates of Time were striking in their poignant philosophy regarding the passage of time and the changes we experience in our lives. It reminds change can happen in the blink of an eye and that some change is far from good. The 168 empty chairs (19 of them child size) are heartbreaking. The names of over 600 survivors, inscribed in four granite tablets saved from the Alfred P. Murray Federal Building, is a reminder that even in the face of great evil and pain we somehow still manage to survive and move on. 

In the Turner Diaries, anyone who was a "race traitor" would be marked for planned mass murder the neo-Nazi's believed would happen after they defeated the American Government. Yes, there are militia members and Boogaloo Bois who view anyone who speaks against them out as race traitors. They believe those who continue to speak out will one day be pulled out of their homes and dragged out into the street on a day of reckoning they refer to as the ‘Day of the Rope’ just as it happened in the Turner Diaries.

Since 2017 the (7) National Alliance neo-Nazi group are actively once again recruiting and growing. It’s been energized and organized behind new leadership. Many forget it was the same group McVeigh aspired to be a part of. Many forget McVeigh and Terry Nichols hung out with militias in Michigan just like the Wolverine Watchmen. Sure, after Oklahoma many groups learned to not push or advertise racist agendas and today instead concentrate on their anti-government message but are they really much different than Pierce’s National Alliance? Groups like the Oath Keepers, Proud Boys, Boogaloo Bois, Three Percenters or even the Wolverine Watchmen are just reincarnations of past groups preaching similar antigovernment rhetoric. They follow similar pathways born out of dogma William Pierce preached. Now, with the Boogaloo ideology, they may have something that helps binds them together. They now also believe they have a man in the Whitehouse that supports them. Those two things are what make what we are seeing today unlike anything we’ve ever seen in our lifetime.

Something’s coming. We all feel it. The tension on the strings can only get so tight before it snaps. COVID contributes to the tension by putting financial stress on poorer white populations. In 2009, the mortgage crisis placed a similar financial burden on many Americans. Both time periods emboldened militias who spewed conspiracies that resulted in increased recruitment.

In 1995, I didn’t see Oklahoma City happening. In 2001, I didn’t see 9/11 happening. In 2020, how can we not see something big is about to happen? The Election is sure to be a catalyst for whatever is coming. The question then becomes: What, if anything, can we do to stop it?

1 https://www.splcenter.org/hatewatch/2020/06/05/boogaloo-started-racist-meme

2 https://www.theatlantic.com/magazine/archive/2020/11/right-wing-militias-civil-war/616473/

3 https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/morning-mix/wp/2017/06/16/boomer-antifa-white-supremacists-rip-into-paramilitary-oath-keepers-for-not-being-racist-enough/

4 Gustave Le Bon, The Crowd (New Brunswick, NJ: Transaction Publications, 1995), 24 and 41.

 

5 https://icct.nl/app/uploads/2016/09/ICCT-Berger-The-Turner-Legacy-September2016-2.pdf

 

6 J.M. Berger, The Turner Legacy: The Storied Origins and Enduring Impact of White Nationalism’s Deadly Bible; Counter Terrorism Strategic Communications Project. September 2016

 

7 https://www.mic.com/articles/184158/the-most-powerful-neo-nazi-group-in-us-history-is-recruiting-people-in-illinois-iowa-border-towns

CUBA: No Escape from Reality

Maybe it was the soldiers that helped remind one you were in a Communist Country…

Author picture

CUBA:

No Escape from Reality


After roughly 6-½ hours we landed in Havana’s José Martí International Airport, which first opened in 1930. It’s now comprised of two distinct terminals. Terminal 2, the newest, opened in 1998 once it became easier for some U.S. Charter flights to travel to Cuba. Back in the late 90’s, and throughout much of the 2000’s, it was mostly flights from New York and Miami that reunited once divided families split when the US embargos of the 60’s disallowed US airlines access to Cuba. Today it’s the terminal most often used for international flights while the old one is used primarily for only domestic. Something about Terminal 2 still feels way older than 1998. Maybe it was the climb down the stairs onto the tarmac and working our way toward the terminal, even though I’ve done that before. Maybe is was just the mystic of traveling to a location that for a long, long time was nearly impossible to get to directly from the United States. Or maybe it was the armed soldiers, although not overtly visible, that stood ready and reminded one that you’ve now entered a Communist police state country. Because it feels a little like 80's action movies retro it tends to make anyone’s first time in Cuba feel both exhilarating and a little bit dangerous. 


 

Our flight originated out of Pittsburgh on United Airlines. It didn’t exactly didn’t start out so smooth. When traveling to Cuba one needs a tourist card, sometimes called a visa (although technically it’s not). Normal ways of getting one is through your airline, the Cuban Embassy or some online sites that claim you can get one through them. United sells them in locations where a direct flight leaves from, like Newark, which was our first-stop with a 1.5 hour layover mind you. For some reason the lady at the counter seemed to be believe we should have the visa in hand first. That would have meant we’d have had to either travel to the Cuban Embassy in D.C. or one of the destination airports where United sells the visa, like Newark, and then travel back to Pittsburgh to then board our plane (which then went directly to Newark). Luckily the lady at the counter saw how ridicules this was and allowed us to board before both our plane and our patience left us.

We traveled in early 2019 under the now banned “People-to-People” option. Cruises are now banned as well. You can still travel there under 11 categories, which if you stay within the US Customs set parameters, counts as a “travel license” granted by the U.S. Government. You don’t get an actual hard copy of a license; the US is simply allowing you to go there legally. The category that is currently the most popular is “Support of the Cuban People”. It’s a stricter, but very doable, version of the “people to people” category we used. 

At some point I may write more in depth about what it takes to get to Cuba legally with the new restrictions, but today I’d rather just tell you about our trip.

Going through customs we were questioned about the amount of older cell phones and tablets we were bringing in. Research said those were some of the main items Cubans desired along with good candy, which we also brought. Since we try to travel light without checked baggage these items fit well in our carry on. We had intended to give them to people we knew we were going to meet to dispense as they saw fit. Far exceeding the amount allowed of two per traveler, we were surprised when customs allowed them through. They let us off with a mild warning making us feel like we had single-handedly defeated Communism.

Making our way outside, we came across a taxi stand unlike any other airport taxi stand we'll probably ever see again outside of Cuba. Lined with pre-1959 Detroit and American steel made classic cars, we were immediately jolted back in time. Some are in great condition while others are seemingly held together with band-aides, glue and duct tape.

We didn’t have the time to absorb the shock of seeing so much historic Americano on Cuban soil before the fierce competition from multitudes of drivers trying to earn our fare became the new focus of our attention. Call me paranoid, but I really don’t like to take chances on taxi drivers in foreign countries, especially aggressive ones. It generally makes me nervous and brings up memories of those 80's movies again where things went bad quickly. In talking to a few folks who had previously traveled to Cuba I was able to make a connection with a cab driver they knew and trusted who was able to meet us when we landed. It’s just something I try and do when I travel. The guy, whom I had contacted through WhatsApp, wound up sending his brother in his stead. Outside he was holding a sign with two names on it – Thor and Angela. While I don’t feel like I look like a Thor it seemed ok to just roll with it given Chris Hemsworth’s current popularity and at least one of us was a tall blonde – even if it wasn’t me. Fortunately for us, our driver even spoke a little English.

sewer

A Drive Back in Time…

It seemed like a drive of a lifetime… back in time. Cuba is myth. Cuba is legend. Expectations that the culture would have an exotic spin to it were well on their way to being fulfilled. There are not many places like Cuba left on the planet. Places stopped in time. That was even more evident sitting in the back seat of our pink, pre-1959, Buick convertible. Passing palm trees and numerous pre-Cuban Revolution American cars, as colorful as the Spanish architecture, could make anyone feel a little longing for simpler times.

Intentions here aren’t to write about Communism in Cuba but it can’t be ignored either. Many grew up in the cold war. Kennedy, Castro, the Bay of Pigs and the Cuban Missile Crisis are well known history. Still, Cuba surprised me in how little I really knew about the country and it’s people. We learn from propaganda machines and while much may be justified; it’s still easy to forget there are real people there. People like you and I, with sons and daughters who have successes and struggles, just like you and I. That will live and die, just like the rest of us. Many judge a country by the Government and the politics but that isn’t what a country is. A country is the people and the Cuban people I met are magnificent and proud.

One anomaly in Cuba that isn’t nostalgic is AirBnb. Even with an Internet that’s still in its infancy AirBnb has found a niche there. It perfectly qualifies for the “People to People” or “Support of the Cuban People” category. It takes all the guesswork out of trying to figure out if the Cuban government owns the Hotel you’re considering booking (a big no-no) or whether or not it’s privately owned. US Customs provides a list of where Americans are allowed to go and stay, but it frequently changes. 

The mobile Network there is still sporting 2G and 3G and likely will be for some time. Not on this drive (but at one point in our trip) I picked up a sim card from the countries cellular company, Cubacel, to have better Internet access and be able to make local calls. With long lines out the door it was a pain and time consuming. I believe I had to pay for an entire month for about 70 dollars even though we only needed it for a week. Because of this sketchy Internet availability, most AirBnb hosts likely can’t get back to you immediately. The vast majority of Cubans rely on neighborhood government Wi-Fi parks that are hopefully in walking distance. There they connect via a phone card you can purchase at various locations usually marked with a “Cubacel” sign. Most visitors and tourists rely on the same phone cards and Wi-Fi parks. 

Our drive from the airport to our AirBnb was going to take about 45 minutes. Along the way we drove past a surprisingly affluent area of well-groomed estates. Our driver explained that area had embassies operated by countries that maintain diplomatic relations with Cuba. We were mildly surprised such decadent estates still existed, but then again, why wouldn't they.

In Cuba you need cash and we needed to exchange some quickly even just to pay our driver. Barely anywhere accepts credit cards except maybe the big hotels. There are two different currencies in Cuba. The one visitors need to be concerned with is the Cuban Convertible Peso called the CUC. It’s pinned 1 to 1 against the US dollar. That doesn’t mean you’re going to spend a ton of money there because it’s 1 to 1. You could easily get by on a 100 CUC a day or less for two people. For reference, at one point I had bought an entire pizza for a dollar. Research had said we had several options to exchange Cuban pesos. Airport lines at the cambio de dinero (money exchange) are long so we wanted to avoid that. Another option was going into Havana to a bank to exchange but both cambios and banks charge a 10% fee plus another 3% as a processing fee. The third option would be a private exchange. I had arranged ahead of time with our drivers brother to possibly exchange so we could avoid the extra 3% fee and the lengthy lines. However, I wasn’t expecting his brother to take us directly to his home.

Driving into a barrio on the outskirts of Havana where fixing potholes, that our driver deftly out maneuvered, was apparently unheard of. The homes, many in need of a fresh coat of paint and basic maintenance, seemed tightly pushed together. I briefly wondered if this was how one loses a kidney. Apparently I’ve watched too many movies.

Eventually we came to a gated home. Our driver jumped out to unlock it so he could pull the Buick in. I made sure to note the he immediately locked it once we were safely inside. It was then a little girl ran up to greet her daddy with his wife not far behind. With a proud smile he introduced us. We managed to choke out a few “Holas” and “Gracias” along with our own smiles. Any concerns of losing a kidney immediately gone with the warm welcome we received. Our movie-style kidnapping left to only my imagination.

Just to make the reader aware, exchanging money privately in communist Cuba is frowned upon. It’s definitely not recommended for first time travelers unless you know and trust the person you’ll be exchanging with. We took a risk, but I like to consider the world isn’t as terrible as the gossipmongers and naysayers would want us to believe.

Making our way around back of his home we were also introduced to his elderly mother. Her smile lit up the home. We were surprised to learn then that our driver was also a preacher. I thought what an odd combo, preacher/taxi driver, but then when you hear taxi drivers in Cuba can make more money in a day than a neurosurgeon can in a month, you begin to understand why those old American cars are so valuable to the Cuban people. As the preacher went to gather up some money for us (I think we exchanged 500 dollars) his wife honored us with our first genuine cup of Cuban coffee much to Angie’s delight. It was made the perfect way over the top of the stove and likely the only way they ever made it in that house. For the exchange we paid the 10% fee, which you really can’t get away from, although I hear the percentage can fluctuate. We did save the additional 3% the cambio or bank would have charged us and from what I understand, if you stay in a hotel and exchange there, you’ll get charged even more than 3%. Knowing our driver probably can’t make financially in Cuba what we make here in the US, we hoped exchanging with him helped a little. 

Rich or poor, money couldn’t buy the love you felt in his humble home. His wife was kind enough to make us a few more cups of coffee while we attempted to have discussions our driver attempted to translate. This was also unfortunately our realization why it was terrible we knew so little Spanish. With his family not knowing any English, you could sense the disappointment that we couldn’t communicate well, especially from our driver’s mother. There could have been so much insight we could have gained from them but the language presented a formidable barrier. I would have loved to hear, from someone like our drivers mother, her take on Che Guevara, Castro, the Cuban Revolution and America’s part in it all. After all, she lived through it all.

Even with the language barrier, it was still the perfect introduction to Cuba and the culture. Grateful, we left them with some of the candy we had brought as well a few other things we’d hoped they’d like. His daughter’s eyes lit up at the site of American candy.

Mi Casa, Tu Casa

Our Airbnb was in Casablanca across the Port of Havana from Old Town. Within walking distance would be the El Cristo de La Habana, a giant marble statue of Christ completed in 1958. Communist or not, Cuba maintains a strong connection to Christianity but maybe not surprisingly, also Santeria, which means “worship of saints”. Many claim that Santeria is a mix of West African beliefs and Roman Catholicism while others claim, as is often the case when something is misunderstood, that it’s a type of voodoo.

The price for our Casa was to be around $30.00 a night for a studio apartment with a private entrance, comfortable bed, a large bathroom and a tiled balcony overlooking the Port of Havana where all the large ships came in. Our hosts were incredibly gracias and over the course of our time there they felt more and more like family. A year after our trip we still stay in touch on WhatsApp and through Facebook.

The first day we arrived, the power was out. The previous evening a terrible storm had hit Havana with a rare tornado touching down. The storm killed 4 and injured 195. Our place wasn’t directly hit and was only impacted by lack of power. We decided to quickly check in and run down to catch the last ferry over to Old Town Havana which still had power and hoped by the time we got back maybe we’d have power. We brought our phone chargers. You don’t need a power adapter in Cuba if you’re from the United States.

The streets of Old Town were busy when we arrived. Cruise ships from the U.S. were still permitted at that time, so the streets were full of tourists. 

Grifters trying to get tourists to spend their money inundated us with one offer after another. Many restaurants even have someone outside trying to steer you inside. The pressure and competition you feel from those out to hustle can be overwhelming at first. You get a sense the hustle is probably justified. Personally, I can both respect the hustle and also be turned away from it. It seems to be part of the human condition where we want to both help while simultaneously avoiding the desperation we perceive from others. It gives us that plausible deniability.  Our hosts already advised us to avoid buying certain items like cigars off the street since they were probably counterfeit. Maintaining the discipline to simply say ‘no’ in a kind way, while still giving the respect of eye contact, is an art form. You’d think all of this would make for a bad experience but the opposite was true. It gave us a sense of appreciation and gratitude.

Although we were hungry we avoided eating out that first night because our hosts wanted to make us a dinner. Normally they charged an extra fee for dinner but waved it because they felt bad the power was out. Sensing this was important to them, we promised to return before sundown. A taxi took us back to our casa for about $6.00. Unfortunately the power was still out. The balcony was set up with candles and a small table. Our meals were amazing. My plate had included a large lobster tail, while Angela’s had ample vegetables, rice, salad and a Cuban style fish which I inherited since she is mostly vegetarian. It was humbling to know that while we had the minor inconvenience of no power that many people, just a few miles away, lost everything the night before. Our hosts were gracious and seemed very concerned that we might be upset because of the lack of power no matter how much we assured them we were fine. We fell asleep easily even though a business below our balcony had a generator running most of the night.

The next morning, with the power still out, our hosts amazing mother brought us breakfast with fresh squeezed juices, exotic fresh fruits, simple meats and eggs, as she did every morning during our stay. The coffee there was perfect and bottomless. They were surprised we consumed as much coffee as we did. By the end of our stay they just kept bringing it without much question. Angie would drink mine if I didn’t hold onto it. Apparently she thinks, because I drink mine slow, that it somehow means I don’t want it.

After taking the ferry over again and spending a second full day in Old Town the power had been restored by the time we got back that evening. For our remaining stay, our excellent hosts filled all our needs. They even arranged for a driver they knew and trusted when requested. 


One day he took us to a beach about 40 minutes east of Havana called Playa Santa Maria del Mar. It’s a beautiful beach that lacks the big crowds you’d find at other similar beaches around the world. After a light lunch, a few hours of fun in the sun and some minor shopping at a few merchandise stands, our driver came back at the exact time he said he would. We asked if he had time to take us the long way home to possibly experience some sights we’d otherwise never get a chance to see. We ended up at Parque Lenin. A beautiful park that also happens to have a huge Vladimir Lenin monument created by a famous Soviet sculptor known for his ‘Soviet Realist’ style named Lev Kerbel. 

It was interesting insight into how many Cubans still believe in the ideology Castro carefully had cultivated during his tenure. Our driver didn’t speak much English. The Lenin statue wasn’t what I expected when I asked him, through Google Translate, if he could show us the real Cuba. As an American, it's somewhat disconcerting to see a momument of someone still revered in a country only 90 miles away from another country where he's so reviled.  It was a reminder that the Soviet Union and communist ideology will always be a part of the real Cuba. No matter what happens in the future the echoes from the cold war can never be erased, nor should they. It's an undeniable part of history.


Ironically there's another Parque Lennon in Havana. There you can get a picture sitting next to bronze statue of John Lennon on a park bench but unfortunately we never made it there on this trip. I suspect if I had specifically asked our driver to take us to Park Lennon that there was a better than 50/50 chance we would have still ended up at the one with Vladimir instead of John... and I'm ok with that.


ill

Havana Daydreaming

For me, travel is not only about the destination but it’s also about the people. Cuba, and more specifically Havana, has its own identity. It is its own museum. If it were an American, it would have its own social security number. There’s a rhythm and a vibe that feeds off its people and the people in turn feed off the city. The energy there isn’t necessarily perfect but there’s often a dark side to everything and Havana is no different. I would feel a profound sense of disappointment if the city weren’t honest and honesty is what Havana does best. It doesn’t hide from what it is, what it isn’t and what it possible could become. It’s not just a look down memory lane. For the first time in 40+ years there’s a new spirit being focused towards the future. It’s a proud city. It stands defiant in spite of what the mighty America and Cuba’s own communist regime have thrown at it. It still stands in spite of every literal and figurative storm that’s ever tried to destroy it. When the day comes that Havana becomes freer from restrictive policies and geopolitical control, expect its citizens to rise up to the challenge. Its 2.1 million citizens seem to be developing a clearer vision and direction of where they want to go and I’m sure they’ll be taking Havana and the entire Country along with them.

I for one am torn between wanting it to stay the same for my own selfish reasons and wanting to see the city and its people be exactly what they’re capable of becoming. Right now, when you walk down the main promenade along the Caribbean Sea, called The Malecón, you can’t help but notice the vacant dilapidated buildings. In most other major cities in the world this would be prime real estate filled with major hotels, upscale boutiques, restaurants and coffee shops. Yet this isn’t where the action is. Hardly anything along the promenade in Old Town, or the immediate neighborhoods headed west, is anywhere you’d want to check out. The Caribbean itself is the only real draw. For that reason alone, there’s something to be said for walking along the Malecón at sunset and watching the waters batter the storm wall while puffing on a genuine Cuban cigar. The history of Havana is a complicated one. The Cuban people who fled Cuba during the revolution, as well as many Americans who were forced to leave, had their properties confiscated. It’s a sore point between the US and Cuba. It seems to prevent relations from ever being normalized. Those who felt forced to flee, still lay claim to those confiscated properties. I can’t help but wonder looking at all the vacant properties what motivates the Cuban Government today to not try something new. There has to be a solution. The jobs alone that would be created from improvements would be astounding. There’s still a divide in Cuba between the have and the have nots so its not the preservation of perceived communism. The monthly stipend the Government provides doesn’t cut it for many. Moving forward may be a daunting task for the government but they probably can no longer go backwards now that the genie has been let out of the bottle. The times they are a changing… whether Cuba is ready or not.

New privately owned restaurants are springing up in special designated districts. Tattoo shops are popping up complete with entrepreneurial tattooists sporting Mohawks. I know, because we got tattoos to prove it. There are numerous options of art exhibits and dance companies to explore. Live rock music dances off 100-year-old Spanish architecture. The boundaries of freedom of expression are being experimented with in documentaries and editorial cartoons. The expanding middle class, now able to travel more freely because they now have the means to do so, are gaining business momentum in the world outside. Miami fashion trends now trickle into Havana more each day. It’s clear the city is slowly coming back to life. The transformation, now post Castro brothers regime, seems to have a life of its own. The current powers that be are still by all accounts, trying to find a way forward. Hopefully there are enough leaders that truly have the people’s interest at heart. 

On one of our days we visited an oncology hospital. Working as an oncology nurse, Angela has developed a passion and curiosity regarding medicine around the globe. In this area Cuba is yet again considered special. Its doctors are notoriously some of the best trained. The hospital we went to was old. The bathroom in the lobby felt like using it might actually put you in the hospital. The equipment they had to work seemed sub par and yet their quality of care is among the best in the world. It’s a paradox they have the success there that they do. The doctors make less than the taxi driver who drove us to the hospital. Cuban doctors, many wanting from the time they were a child to follow in the footsteps of their idol and doctor Che Guava, are among Cuba’s best assets.  An agreement with Venezuela, called the “Oil for Doctors” program nets 100,000 barrels of much needed oil a day to run those American Cars. It’s also one of the reasons why America is currently reverting back to once again punishing Cuba with harsher sanctions. The U.S. takes the stance Cuba is supporting Venezuela when in reality, from their viewpoint, they have limited options. The people stuck in the middle are really who suffers with higher gas prices, which cripples an already poor economy. It’s easier to be supportive of sanctions if you don’t have to look the countries people in the eye. A Cuba with less oil is a Cuba without some of those amazing American cars running the roads. What other country will step up give away oil for lending its doctors and simply training its medical community?

Cuba is starting to stretch its capitalistic muscle but they also seem stuck in a damned if they do and damned if they don’t situation. If Cuba is to find a way out from where they are it will take significant help from the outside world and patience. If that happens, will Cuba still be the same Cuba we visited? It may be only 90 miles from the United States but it’s still light years away from most things you know.

ill

ALL PHOTOS BY: Angela Erdmann and Thomas Lonero